Strut style & interchangeability questions
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Strut style & interchangeability questions
I've been searching for quite a while now and keep finding conflicting and/or incomplete info, this seems like something that should be in an FAQ or something.
Anyway...
Is this correct?
- Rebuildable struts: All NA 944's through 1986 have rebuildable struts.
- Sealed/not-rebuildable struts: All NA 944's from 1987 and later, and all 944 Turbos, have sealed/not-rebuildable struts, and these struts are interchangeable.
Anyway...
Is this correct?
- Rebuildable struts: All NA 944's through 1986 have rebuildable struts.
- Sealed/not-rebuildable struts: All NA 944's from 1987 and later, and all 944 Turbos, have sealed/not-rebuildable struts, and these struts are interchangeable.
#2
Rennlist Member
I Know the 86 turbo can use the early style struts with some washers attached. Which then would allow for the simple strut cartridges.
M474- Have to be shipped out for rebuild from koni or use the cut a strut method.
M030- I'm pretty sure they have to be shipped out to koni as well.
That's about all I got lol.
M474- Have to be shipped out for rebuild from koni or use the cut a strut method.
M030- I'm pretty sure they have to be shipped out to koni as well.
That's about all I got lol.
#3
Nordschleife Master
There are some exceptions. The 86 Turbo and some of the factory upgrade options, M030 and maybe the Turbo S may not interchange [need clarification]. Don't forget that you can cut the later sealed struts and change the insert that way, it's an easy mod.
#4
Racer
Thread Starter
Thanks guys. My 87 turbo blew a strut and while I have no problem with doing the "cut a strut and use Koni inserts" mod, I'm not so keen on being locked into Koni for the rest of time.
So I've been trying to see which struts are interchangeable, with the idea that I could use the early rebuildable struts. However, it does not look like the early struts will work on the 87 turbo.
Has anyone modded their sealed struts to accept a gland nut like the early struts?
So I've been trying to see which struts are interchangeable, with the idea that I could use the early rebuildable struts. However, it does not look like the early struts will work on the 87 turbo.
Has anyone modded their sealed struts to accept a gland nut like the early struts?
#5
Hey Aco, I did that way back in the day. Although I've modded the early rebuilable struts to accept late spindles, I want to take a set of late struts and add a threaded locknut then fit the early rebuildable inserts.....The KYB GR2's are the best daily driver strut insert I've used and currently running.... So if anyone has a set of fried LATE struts, send them my way.
#6
Racer
Thread Starter
xschop, I was googling around the other day and I found an old reference to someone who had chopped the tops off his late sealed 944 struts and also a set of junkyard VW? BMW? gland nut struts and press fitted or maybe welded the VW/BMW threaded strut top onto his 944 struts. Then he could use any insert he wished.
I suppose you could also chop the top off the late struts and cut some threads inside for a gland nut? Why not cut threads on the outside of the strut like plumbing pipe?
Anyway, I'm looking around for some late struts, I'll let you know...
I suppose you could also chop the top off the late struts and cut some threads inside for a gland nut? Why not cut threads on the outside of the strut like plumbing pipe?
Anyway, I'm looking around for some late struts, I'll let you know...
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#8
Does anyone know where I can buy just the screw caps for the EARLY struts? They are M50 x 1.5
http://www.ebay.com/itm/OE-Porsche-F...41286633507578
You cannot mount the strut in a lathe and cut the threads on the factory housing. But you can machine an insert...
1.977 O.D
1.750 I.D
3.00 Length
M50 x 1.5 x 20mm length O.D. threading
http://www.ebay.com/itm/OE-Porsche-F...41286633507578
You cannot mount the strut in a lathe and cut the threads on the factory housing. But you can machine an insert...
1.977 O.D
1.750 I.D
3.00 Length
M50 x 1.5 x 20mm length O.D. threading
Last edited by xschop; 11-04-2011 at 09:04 AM.
#9
Nordschleife Master
If you are going to fabricate why not start from scratch. After all a strut is just a tube with one end capped and a bottom flange welded on.
It would be easier to mount the tube in a lathe and cut the threads plus you could make 3 flange types, one for early, one for late and one for turbo/S2. That would solve the later spindle to early car issue.
It would be easier to mount the tube in a lathe and cut the threads plus you could make 3 flange types, one for early, one for late and one for turbo/S2. That would solve the later spindle to early car issue.
#12
I got a set of early screw caps from a buddy yesterday. The dims I posted are spot-on and the O.D. of the insert should be confirmed with the I.D. of your LATE strut after you chop the crimp-top off. I also brought the old EARLY-STYLE Yellow KONI insert with me to the shop and made sure that it as well as the KYB-GR2 were exactly the same dimensions and most importantly, they both seat in the bottom of the LATE strut body perfectly. I took a couple of phone-pics at the shop last night for future reference of exactly where to cut the strut body and weld in the insert for the screw-cap to ensure compression.... I'm about to crack the welder and put this mod in the BTDT file.
#13
Hey Acorad, when you get a set and chop off the crimp, please post the I.D. of the struts to compare mine.....1.977"
I'm going to machine an extra set to have on hand for a 300lb set of coilovers for the V8 hybriders. I'll leave the O.D. 2.00" until I get another LATE set in hand...
What a a pain in the *** to remove the old KONI inserts...
The KONI inserts have a 7mm hex at the strut top and 22mm locknut, so I made my own tool by welding a 22mm short socket to a 1" flat stock and drilling a 5/8" hole for the 7mm Allen socket to insert thru....
Only 3" of material length is needed for each strut. I used 4130 DOM steel as there is no inside seem to clean up.... I had 1.75" I.D. on hand
After cutting the crimp off, I installed the EARLY strut insert and recalc'ed the depth needed to get the machined adapter where the screw cap ensured compression (3/16" protrusion is best) and re-cut both struts to 12.50" from inside bottom depth...
I took this final pic for reference before welding the perimeter..... Paint's drying now....
I'm going to machine an extra set to have on hand for a 300lb set of coilovers for the V8 hybriders. I'll leave the O.D. 2.00" until I get another LATE set in hand...
What a a pain in the *** to remove the old KONI inserts...
The KONI inserts have a 7mm hex at the strut top and 22mm locknut, so I made my own tool by welding a 22mm short socket to a 1" flat stock and drilling a 5/8" hole for the 7mm Allen socket to insert thru....
Only 3" of material length is needed for each strut. I used 4130 DOM steel as there is no inside seem to clean up.... I had 1.75" I.D. on hand
After cutting the crimp off, I installed the EARLY strut insert and recalc'ed the depth needed to get the machined adapter where the screw cap ensured compression (3/16" protrusion is best) and re-cut both struts to 12.50" from inside bottom depth...
I took this final pic for reference before welding the perimeter..... Paint's drying now....
#14
Racer
Thread Starter
xschop, dam you're fast!
So the I.D. of the late sealed struts = (or is slightly bigger than) the finished O.D. of the machined adapter = the I.D. of the early gland nut?
I'm just trying to wrap my head around how lucky it is that the I.D. of the late strut = the I.D of the early gland nut...
So the I.D. of the late sealed struts = (or is slightly bigger than) the finished O.D. of the machined adapter = the I.D. of the early gland nut?
I'm just trying to wrap my head around how lucky it is that the I.D. of the late strut = the I.D of the early gland nut...
#15
Nordschleife Master
If you are going to fabricate why not start from scratch. After all a strut is just a tube with one end capped and a bottom flange welded on.
It would be easier to mount the tube in a lathe and cut the threads plus you could make 3 flange types, one for early, one for late and one for turbo/S2. That would solve the later spindle to early car issue.
It would be easier to mount the tube in a lathe and cut the threads plus you could make 3 flange types, one for early, one for late and one for turbo/S2. That would solve the later spindle to early car issue.
I've been thinking about converting some early struts with early offset, to late spindles.... I know you've made the adapter for that.
However, I've been thinking.... Why isn't it easier to just make new strut tubes? Its a threaded pipe, then the wrap around "band" for the flange. You could drill, slot, and space the holes to wherever you wanted.
I'm sure you've thought of it. Just wondering why you've chosen to go with what seems to be the more difficult/time consuming route.