Don't buy Autozone CV Joints
#1
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Don't buy Autozone CV Joints
The other night I blew a CV joint. I wasn't too surprised because I've read this isn't all that uncommon. All it took was one hard shift into second and BOOM.
The picture shows where it failed, I jammed it on a piece of wood to spread it apart more. I was expecting a little bit more gore to be honest. There was one small metal fragment and I couldn't find the 6th ball on the road, probably vaporized from the intense heat generated by all my torque
Anyways I absolutely do not recommend these joints for any form of racing. I don't drive my car harder than anyone else(my age anyway) and this one lasted MAYBE 3 months. My original CV's with about 170k miles and tons of play took a beating way longer than these ever will.
Autozone does have a very liberal return policy so I will be getting a new one for free(minus my time, gas money and rage). I guess I'll be driving a little more carefully until I can afford something of a little better quality
The picture shows where it failed, I jammed it on a piece of wood to spread it apart more. I was expecting a little bit more gore to be honest. There was one small metal fragment and I couldn't find the 6th ball on the road, probably vaporized from the intense heat generated by all my torque
Anyways I absolutely do not recommend these joints for any form of racing. I don't drive my car harder than anyone else(my age anyway) and this one lasted MAYBE 3 months. My original CV's with about 170k miles and tons of play took a beating way longer than these ever will.
Autozone does have a very liberal return policy so I will be getting a new one for free(minus my time, gas money and rage). I guess I'll be driving a little more carefully until I can afford something of a little better quality
#2
What's the diameter of ***** and cage?
An upgrade is a type-2 cv (33 spline)
Also if you are running the factory rubber trans mount, you'll pop CV's no matter what their strength/composition. The best CV I've found for the money and quality is an EMPI type-2. The Best quality is a GKN/LOBRO Type-2 but costs more.
An upgrade is a type-2 cv (33 spline)
Also if you are running the factory rubber trans mount, you'll pop CV's no matter what their strength/composition. The best CV I've found for the money and quality is an EMPI type-2. The Best quality is a GKN/LOBRO Type-2 but costs more.
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I want a solid mount but even the noise from the urathane and no hatch carpet can get on peoples nerves
Ill get real joints before the next "season" and take it easy for now. Are GKN the OEM brand? Whatever they are they were great now that I think about how much they took
Ill get real joints before the next "season" and take it easy for now. Are GKN the OEM brand? Whatever they are they were great now that I think about how much they took
#9
Hey Man
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My Kragen axles lasted for 3 years of hard driving until I sold the black 951 and another set was tracked for a season in 944 Spec on the 83 I sold. Looks like cheap CV's are exactly that now or you got a really bad one. The cool thing was the Lifetime Warranty even though I never had to use it on any 944 series.
#10
Burning Brakes
I ordered autozone CVs a few months ago. One arrived broken and missing *****. I was informed the other one was damaged in shipping....
Long story short: ordered CVs from 944online which aren't too expensive. They're really nice and fixed a rearend vibration I had for years.
Long story short: ordered CVs from 944online which aren't too expensive. They're really nice and fixed a rearend vibration I had for years.
#11
Nordschleife Master
I know, that last sentence sounds weird.
#12
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I recently removed the solid top and bottom tb tube mounts and refitted rubber due to noise. I am fully trimmed in the hatch area though.