Rear wheel bearings - totally confused because this doesn't match up with the FSM
#1
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Rear wheel bearings - totally confused because this doesn't match up with the FSM
So I pulled things apart on the 85/5 to replace the cartridge bearings. I used a blind bearing puller to remove the rear hub (Clarks's suggests drifting it out, but that seems like begging to mar up the splines) and expected to see a circlip with a cartridge bearing behind it, like in the diagram:
Instead, I have a seal, a circlip, a caged bearing, and a race, with the cartridge bearing behind it. The race has an obviously smaller inner diameter than the cartridge bearing outer diameter, so it's going to need to go.
1.) What the hell?
2.) Anyone see this before - what am I missing here?
3.) Now I need to order a set of races, bearings, and seals which I have no part numbers for and can't find on any diagrams. Can anyone help with this?
Here it is with the circlip removed:
And with the caged bearings removed:
The caged bearings must be shot. The grease is nasty and the groove in the race is visible. I can catch a nail on it.
I don't even understand what these bearings are for......you can't adjust them. They're just held in by the circlip and the inner race is part of the hub, so that's not adjustable either.
Maybe I've been working on this thing for too long today.
Instead, I have a seal, a circlip, a caged bearing, and a race, with the cartridge bearing behind it. The race has an obviously smaller inner diameter than the cartridge bearing outer diameter, so it's going to need to go.
1.) What the hell?
2.) Anyone see this before - what am I missing here?
3.) Now I need to order a set of races, bearings, and seals which I have no part numbers for and can't find on any diagrams. Can anyone help with this?
Here it is with the circlip removed:
And with the caged bearings removed:
The caged bearings must be shot. The grease is nasty and the groove in the race is visible. I can catch a nail on it.
I don't even understand what these bearings are for......you can't adjust them. They're just held in by the circlip and the inner race is part of the hub, so that's not adjustable either.
Maybe I've been working on this thing for too long today.
#2
Nordschleife Master
The other half (1/4) of the cartridge bearing is still attached to the hub..
The outer race is one piece, the inner race is 2 pieces, and yours came off the bearing with the hub!
This happens when the bearings are WAY shot...
Arnworx makes a puller for these bearings, yes I have the tool!
http://arnnworx.com/RearBearings.htm (shows the inner race separated from the outer race!)
http://www.arnnworx.com/catalog/inde...481d37d726a49c
The outer race is one piece, the inner race is 2 pieces, and yours came off the bearing with the hub!
This happens when the bearings are WAY shot...
Arnworx makes a puller for these bearings, yes I have the tool!
http://arnnworx.com/RearBearings.htm (shows the inner race separated from the outer race!)
http://www.arnnworx.com/catalog/inde...481d37d726a49c
#3
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
John is right. The arnnworx tool works great btw. If you don't have it, a slide hammer or something should work I guess.
Have fun taking that inner race off of the hub! You can try a thin chisel and hammer. My method works well but I wouldn't recommend it to anyone else (it involved a dremel, lol).
Have fun taking that inner race off of the hub! You can try a thin chisel and hammer. My method works well but I wouldn't recommend it to anyone else (it involved a dremel, lol).
#4
Nordschleife Master
Daryl,
If you need to borrow the tool PM me your address and I can send it up your way.. should only take a day or 2 via USPS... could also put the press clamp in the box to get the inner race off the hub!
If you need to borrow the tool PM me your address and I can send it up your way.. should only take a day or 2 via USPS... could also put the press clamp in the box to get the inner race off the hub!
#5
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Yeah, I knew they were way shot. They went from an occasional click going over a bump and barely perceptible movement with the whole wheel on to a clang any time the suspension loaded/unloaded and feeling play even in the hub in a matter of a few hundred miles. I don't even know how long the quieter clicking had been going on, as I couldn't hear it with the windows up. Probably most of the winter.
Getting the rest of the race off of the hub sounds like a job for a blue tipped wrench.
#6
Nordschleife Master
I was so tired at the point I posted that I didn't even think to measure the width and compare it to the new bearings. Which is of course the same width. Thank you. I just needed a sanity check there.
Yeah, I knew they were way shot. They went from an occasional click going over a bump and barely perceptible movement with the whole wheel on to a clang any time the suspension loaded/unloaded and feeling play even in the hub in a matter of a few hundred miles. I don't even know how long the quieter clicking had been going on, as I couldn't hear it with the windows up. Probably most of the winter.
I really appreciate that, and may take you up on it. I had read this procedure and about the press tools and decided I'd try to make something work with a slide hammer and a socket, or with two sockets and some all-thread (to make a press). If I give up, I'll get in touch
Getting the rest of the race off of the hub sounds like a job for a blue tipped wrench.
Yeah, I knew they were way shot. They went from an occasional click going over a bump and barely perceptible movement with the whole wheel on to a clang any time the suspension loaded/unloaded and feeling play even in the hub in a matter of a few hundred miles. I don't even know how long the quieter clicking had been going on, as I couldn't hear it with the windows up. Probably most of the winter.
I really appreciate that, and may take you up on it. I had read this procedure and about the press tools and decided I'd try to make something work with a slide hammer and a socket, or with two sockets and some all-thread (to make a press). If I give up, I'll get in touch
Getting the rest of the race off of the hub sounds like a job for a blue tipped wrench.
FWIW, I bought 3/4 inch drive socket set ($150) and a 3/4 inch breaker bar just to be able to do this job.. between the 3/4 inch drive stuff and the press tool it was a breeze!
#7
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When you remove the outer race from the hub, just heat it up with a propane torch and knock it off with a chisel and hammer carefully. If you are not comfortable doing that, take a dremel or cutoff wheel and cut about halfway to 3/4 way through the race, then place the chisel in the opening and give it a good whack. It will break all the way through and then you can slide off the race.
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#8
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Remember, I'm in the northeast. An oxy torch is pretty much the first tool you need to put in your garage
Also, I'm taking up John's generous offer of the tool loan, so regardless of whether my contraptions work or not, I should have this done over the weekend.
Thanks again, everyone.
#9
Pro
get a washer the same od as the bearing a piece of ready rod another washer and a nut, should suck it out no problem
I have to do the same thing later today >.< haha
I have to do the same thing later today >.< haha
#10
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
I was also considering using another socket rather than a washer, as they are cheap and strong.
#14
Nordschleife Master
#15
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Holy crap, does that thing take some bearing out or what? It just took me longer to find the right 2 sockets than it did to press the bearing out. Literally under 2 minutes to get the one (hilariously bad) out.
After a beer, I'm gonna switch her from suck to blow.
Thankyouthankyouthankyou.
After a beer, I'm gonna switch her from suck to blow.
Thankyouthankyouthankyou.