Custom Battery Cable Install
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
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Finished the install of the custom cables I've been working on. Very happy with the overall appearance and they've cured all kinds of running issues, some of which I knew about and some of which have been with the car since I bought her. Installing the terminals for the CEB power tie in took a bit of time but managed to use OEM studs. I'll let the pictures speak for the rest.
![](http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c7/ramius665/Battery%20Cables/IMG_5371.jpg)
![](http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c7/ramius665/Battery%20Cables/IMG_5370.jpg)
![](http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c7/ramius665/Battery%20Cables/IMG_5366.jpg)
![](http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c7/ramius665/Battery%20Cables/IMG_5371.jpg)
![](http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c7/ramius665/Battery%20Cables/IMG_5370.jpg)
![](http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c7/ramius665/Battery%20Cables/IMG_5366.jpg)
![](http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c7/ramius665/Battery%20Cables/IMG_5372.jpg)
#6
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Maybe... ![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
The grounds are 0/1, the battery-starter line is 0/1 and the alternator to starter line is 1. Picked up the wire from a industrial supplier and built the harness along with a fellow RL'er.
Considerably more flexible than what Iceshark/Robby use. You can literally tie the 0/1 wire into a knot.
Took about an hour and a half, most of the difficulty was getting the old/new cables around my adjustable FPR on the firewall. I've got a quest alternator so the wiring there was VERY easy.
I had to remove my intercooler charge pipe to be able to get my fat hands down to the alternator but that's a 2 minute job. Looking back, I'd pull the starter to get more room to maneuver but I don't think it's 100% necessary.
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Took about an hour and a half, most of the difficulty was getting the old/new cables around my adjustable FPR on the firewall. I've got a quest alternator so the wiring there was VERY easy.
I had to remove my intercooler charge pipe to be able to get my fat hands down to the alternator but that's a 2 minute job. Looking back, I'd pull the starter to get more room to maneuver but I don't think it's 100% necessary.
#7
Nordschleife Master
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Aaron, I am in love with your car, and with these cables... for more reasons than just the obvious!
![Cool](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/cool.gif)
FWIW, isn't that a complete assembled starter / alternator harness? It appears to be using the factory connector at the firewall to tie into the factory wiring...
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#10
Burning Brakes
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The grounds are 0/1, the battery-starter line is 0/1 and the alternator to starter line is 1. Picked up the wire from a industrial supplier and built the harness along with a fellow RL'er.
#12
Nordschleife Master