Rebuilding the fuel injectors, DIY.
#16
Sorry to bring up the dead, but I've been looking to do this myself as well, and doing the research, came across this thread.
The ebay link in the original post seems no longer valid, it just goes to a list of similar kits. I want to make sure I'm getting the exact right thing. Who was the original ebay seller? How can I know if I'm getting the right kit or not?
The ebay link in the original post seems no longer valid, it just goes to a list of similar kits. I want to make sure I'm getting the exact right thing. Who was the original ebay seller? How can I know if I'm getting the right kit or not?
#17
Hello again... I'm still looking for the little mesh filters that go in the inlet end of the fuel injectors. I can find that type of item on eBay, but they seem to come in different sizes, and I don't want to get the wrong one.
If anyone can tell me exactly what size of this little filter to get, or can point me to a source where I can get the right kind, or even better a kit that has the filters with all the O-rings and pintle caps etc., I'd greatly appreciate it.
Thanks!
If anyone can tell me exactly what size of this little filter to get, or can point me to a source where I can get the right kind, or even better a kit that has the filters with all the O-rings and pintle caps etc., I'd greatly appreciate it.
Thanks!
#18
Burning Brakes
I just soaked my in carburetor cleaner in a glass jar overnight. That's about 400 X the strength it would be if run through a full tank of gas. Works fine.
Others have used a syringe and spray can of carb cleaner, per YouTube video:
All you really need are the injectors with old O rings to fit into 25 cent syringe barrel, can of carb cleaner, wire, alligator clips, and 9-12 volt battery, most of which you probably have lying around the house.
Start with back-flushing the injectors to wash out any crud, by first doing the procedure from the exit side.
Others have used a syringe and spray can of carb cleaner, per YouTube video:
All you really need are the injectors with old O rings to fit into 25 cent syringe barrel, can of carb cleaner, wire, alligator clips, and 9-12 volt battery, most of which you probably have lying around the house.
Start with back-flushing the injectors to wash out any crud, by first doing the procedure from the exit side.
Last edited by Dash01; 09-02-2014 at 08:15 PM.
#19
Rennlist Member
For future searchers, I've been very happy with SouthBay Fuel Injectors. http://www.southbayfuelinjectors.com/clean-flow-test/
Only $15 per injector for cleaning, rebuilding, before and after flow testing and a nice report.
Only $15 per injector for cleaning, rebuilding, before and after flow testing and a nice report.
#20
Thank you Van. I see that SouthBay sells the kind of filter I'm asking about, described as fitting "most" fuel injectors, domestic and import. An eight-pack for $10. I've sent them a message asking if they know if that's correct for the 944, and it probably is, I just want to be sure before I buy. But it's getting to the point now that I might just buy a bunch of different ones and hope something fits.
If I get a response, I'll post it here.
If I get a response, I'll post it here.
#21
SouthBay replied that these micro basket fuel injector filters are "definitely the ones for your injectors". You get eight filters in the package for $10, so you'll still need to get the seal kit of O-rings and pintle caps from another source. The cheapest I have seen is a $20 kit for all four injectors at Pelican, so between the two, you'd have spent $30 to reseal four injectors but still have four filters left over.
I also contacted a vendor recommended in another forum, Mr. Injector, and they say that their TF1 kit "is the correct kit for your application". This kit is $20 for the 4-cylinder pack, which actually comes with five of everything, so you have a safety margin if you damage one.
I also contacted a vendor recommended in another forum, Mr. Injector, and they say that their TF1 kit "is the correct kit for your application". This kit is $20 for the 4-cylinder pack, which actually comes with five of everything, so you have a safety margin if you damage one.
#22
Quick caution... at idle, these things pulse 16 times per second. You'd have to have some pretty quick hands with the jumper, as I'm sure they're not designed to withstand constant current.
#23
You'll never be able to do it manually as fast as fast as 16 Hz, or have individual pulses as quick as what electronics can do. But with using the button to make each pulse be a split second within the realm of human perception, for the relatively few pulses that are needed, is apparently not going to be an issue.
#24
Fair enough.
I made a circuit that sends out 8 millisecond pulses. Never got a chance to properly set it up, kept it on the protoboard.
I found that the ultrasonic cleaner stripped all the paint off of the injectors also.
I made a circuit that sends out 8 millisecond pulses. Never got a chance to properly set it up, kept it on the protoboard.
I found that the ultrasonic cleaner stripped all the paint off of the injectors also.
#25
I don't know if the paint is important, or if you can repaint injectors. But in all honesty, I'm probably going to forego the ultrasonic cleaner. The Pelican write-up didn't use them. I know the ultrasonic cleaner speeds up the process, but I'm fine with letting them soak overnight. Although that probably isn't good for the pain, either...
#26
I don't know if the paint is important, or if you can repaint injectors. But in all honesty, I'm probably going to forego the ultrasonic cleaner. The Pelican write-up didn't use them. I know the ultrasonic cleaner speeds up the process, but I'm fine with letting them soak overnight. Although that probably isn't good for the pain, either...
#28
Well I made a liar out of myself, and bought an ultrasonic cleaner on Amazon last night. It looks like the same one used by the OP, whom I also noticed painted his injectors (they look like primer in the photo where he mentioned he painted them).
So I'll probably do it as well. Would a normal spray paint (like Rustoleum) be sufficient for long-term durability of the paint finish, or should I use a hi-temp spray paint, like the type meant for calipers or engine blocks/valve covers/cam covers/etc.? I've been recommended to use VHT in the past...
I've been wanting some red caliper paint...maybe I'll get that now and use that for the injectors...I'm sure it wouldn't hurt...right?
So I'll probably do it as well. Would a normal spray paint (like Rustoleum) be sufficient for long-term durability of the paint finish, or should I use a hi-temp spray paint, like the type meant for calipers or engine blocks/valve covers/cam covers/etc.? I've been recommended to use VHT in the past...
I've been wanting some red caliper paint...maybe I'll get that now and use that for the injectors...I'm sure it wouldn't hurt...right?
#29
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Make sure paint is fuel & heat resistant. Most are not.
#30
Well the VHT Caliper Paint is definitely heat resistant, up to 900°F/482°C.
Now, regarding being fuel resistant, they don't say. Being caliper paint, it's definitely designed for harsh environments. That being said, I'm not sure how important fuel resistance is. Yes, I know it's a fuel injector...but it's the outside being painted, and fuel should not be coming into contact with the outside of the injector. If it does, I'll probably have bigger things to worry about than the finish on the injectors.
Correct me if I'm wrong about that...
Now, regarding being fuel resistant, they don't say. Being caliper paint, it's definitely designed for harsh environments. That being said, I'm not sure how important fuel resistance is. Yes, I know it's a fuel injector...but it's the outside being painted, and fuel should not be coming into contact with the outside of the injector. If it does, I'll probably have bigger things to worry about than the finish on the injectors.
Correct me if I'm wrong about that...