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clutch pedal adjustment question

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Old 01-21-2011 | 04:29 PM
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dillon410021's Avatar
dillon410021
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Default clutch pedal adjustment question

I have just installed a new slave and master cylinder and the line in between. I used a motive power bleeder to bleed the system and I am pretty sure there are no air bubbles left. The problem is that the clutch pedal engages toward the bottom of the pedal travel. I have adjusted the rod screw piece all the way and it is still at the bottom. When bleeding, I had the pedal to the floor and the screw rod piece was positioned at the middle of adjustment. What do I need to do to get the pedal to engage toward the top of the pedal travel
thanks
Old 01-21-2011 | 04:54 PM
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It was a giant PITA when I did mine as well. It's a matter of having all the adjustments correct and getting all the bubbles out. When you finally do get good pressure you'll probably need to readust the rod to get the proper freeplay in the pedal when it all the way up.
Old 01-21-2011 | 05:12 PM
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i pulled my calipers for a repaint recently and when I put it all back together I used a motive bleeder to bleed my brakes and slave as well. The brakes were great from the start, but I had a similar issue with my slave. First of all, I didn't know the pedal had to be down to release fluid. After I had bled well I went to take it for a drive and my pedal was sorta stuck to the floor. The car was driveable, but I didn't have near the movement in the pedal as I did before. In fact, I could stick my toe up underneath and pull it back up to the highest position but as soon as I'd push it again it would travel to the floor...almost like it had two positions or something. Anyway, it drove...so I thought I'd go ahead and drive it around a while and maybe it would figure itself out. Sure enough, after several miles of bedding my new brake pads...I was downshifting to 2nd and the clutch pedal just 'worked'. It was at it's highest position but now with pressure and a 'normal' amount of travel before the clutch was engaged.

So, not sure if you tried it yet or not...but if it's driveable, maybe put some miles on it and see if it works itself out.
Old 01-22-2011 | 12:04 AM
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do you think I need to bleed it again. Maybe try bleeding it with the the rod/ screw piece all the way adjusted the other way. It is just a pita jacking the car and and removing the starter to bleed when it is freezing out.
Old 01-22-2011 | 11:22 PM
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Originally Posted by choinga
i pulled my calipers for a repaint recently and when I put it all back together I used a motive bleeder to bleed my brakes and slave as well. The brakes were great from the start, but I had a similar issue with my slave. First of all, I didn't know the pedal had to be down to release fluid. After I had bled well I went to take it for a drive and my pedal was sorta stuck to the floor. The car was driveable, but I didn't have near the movement in the pedal as I did before. In fact, I could stick my toe up underneath and pull it back up to the highest position but as soon as I'd push it again it would travel to the floor...almost like it had two positions or something. Anyway, it drove...so I thought I'd go ahead and drive it around a while and maybe it would figure itself out. Sure enough, after several miles of bedding my new brake pads...I was downshifting to 2nd and the clutch pedal just 'worked'. It was at it's highest position but now with pressure and a 'normal' amount of travel before the clutch was engaged.

So, not sure if you tried it yet or not...but if it's driveable, maybe put some miles on it and see if it works itself out.
you were right! I pumped the pedal about 50 times and it is perfect now. I drove it just now and shifting is much easier do to the old slave and master cylinders that were slowly letting fluid by.
Old 01-23-2011 | 10:31 PM
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Hmm... glad you solved it! I've been dealing with a similar problem but, in the reverse, you might say. My clutch pedal appears to engage at the top of travel since the new clutch was installed. I tried adjusting it at the pedal but it seemed to just adjust pedal positing, not engagement point. I guess it's like there's a hydraulic preload, essentially actuating the clutch with the pedal un pressed.



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