Parts list needed for "light" engine rebuild
05-15-2003, 08:51 PM
#1
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Parts list needed for "light" engine rebuild
Ok, so I have bent valves, I want to pull my engine and do the following-
rebuild and port/polish head
re-seal everything (balance shaft, oil pan, steering stuff, etc.)
replace rings
replace all bearings (connecting rods and main)
So I know I need a seal kit and head gasket as well as valves, but what else? What parts need to be replaced while I'm in there to avoid problems down the road? Now I am on a budget, so I can't just go replacing everything (like pistons), but I want to do a good job and have an engine that will last a long, long time. So, is there anything I am forgetting? Thanks in advance!
rebuild and port/polish head
re-seal everything (balance shaft, oil pan, steering stuff, etc.)
replace rings
replace all bearings (connecting rods and main)
So I know I need a seal kit and head gasket as well as valves, but what else? What parts need to be replaced while I'm in there to avoid problems down the road? Now I am on a budget, so I can't just go replacing everything (like pistons), but I want to do a good job and have an engine that will last a long, long time. So, is there anything I am forgetting? Thanks in advance!
05-16-2003, 06:31 AM
#2
Instructor
Join Date: May 2003
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If you're like me and want your car to be as new and drive it for many years without standing still at the side of the road it's going to cost money. However This doesn't mean you just have to replace everything, carefully checking and measuring components, and consulting experts ensures you to safely re-use certain parts.
I've just rebuild my engine and being a student I had a limited budget. I came to the conclusion it just doesn't pay to cut corners. (see bottom of my post)
In addition to your own engine rebuild suggestions, replace all engine seals, gaskets, O-rings etc. I can advise you to have your injectors cleaned and replace (if necessary) the water pump. I would always replace al the belts idle and tension rollers and the belts itself.
While the engine is out take a good look at all the clutch components. Although my clutch was good I did replace the clutch bearing guide tube and pinion bearing. These are often forgotten during clutch replacement and do prolong the life of your other clutch components.
In my case I also replaced my oil pressure valve sleeve and thermostat and temperature sender.
At the end it didn't cost me as much as I though, and now I do have a brand new engine. It should cost you even less, as parts in the states are about 30% cheaper.
Good luck
PS Why is everything cheaper in the states%
I've just rebuild my engine and being a student I had a limited budget. I came to the conclusion it just doesn't pay to cut corners. (see bottom of my post)
In addition to your own engine rebuild suggestions, replace all engine seals, gaskets, O-rings etc. I can advise you to have your injectors cleaned and replace (if necessary) the water pump. I would always replace al the belts idle and tension rollers and the belts itself.
While the engine is out take a good look at all the clutch components. Although my clutch was good I did replace the clutch bearing guide tube and pinion bearing. These are often forgotten during clutch replacement and do prolong the life of your other clutch components.
In my case I also replaced my oil pressure valve sleeve and thermostat and temperature sender.
At the end it didn't cost me as much as I though, and now I do have a brand new engine. It should cost you even less, as parts in the states are about 30% cheaper.
Good luck
PS Why is everything cheaper in the states%
05-16-2003, 09:44 AM
#3
Three Wheelin'
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: St Louis, Missouri, USA
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Well there is one mistake of ordering the standard headset, and then once you have your head surfaced you find that ya need the thicker head gasket - which costs another $80. If I were going to do it over, I would have first measured the head, THEN ordered the headset (with the right 1.4 mm gasket). Just a thought. Bruce
05-16-2003, 10:24 AM
#4
Three Wheelin'
Other things that will cost you will be sealing rings/washers and gaskets for all the peripheral stuff. Rollers and belts and new hardware add up too. I have Curil T and the Loctite 574 or whatever the orange stuff is, so you can use some of that. Here is a link to my seals web page for seals on a turbo engine, some will still be relevant to your motor <a href="http://home.satx.rr.com/grehome/seals.htm" target="_blank">Seals page</a>
And here is the page which describes the hardware that I needed during my rebuild. <a href="http://home.satx.rr.com/grehome/hardware.htm" target="_blank">Hardware web page</a>
There are a few special tools needed such as flywheel locks and 12 point star bits etc but you can borrow those from me if you dont already have them. I am sure you already have good torque wrenches and micrometers etc.
OZ
And here is the page which describes the hardware that I needed during my rebuild. <a href="http://home.satx.rr.com/grehome/hardware.htm" target="_blank">Hardware web page</a>
There are a few special tools needed such as flywheel locks and 12 point star bits etc but you can borrow those from me if you dont already have them. I am sure you already have good torque wrenches and micrometers etc.
OZ
