SF Bay Area mechanic recommendation?
#31
RL Community Team
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Another great parts place is EASY in Emeryville. Their prices are always lower than Parts Heaven, but sometimes they don't have what you're looking for. I always try them first.
There's also a user named Lart who parts out 951s as a hobby, though he does it so much you'd think this is how he makes a living. No, he's a city councilman. But he probably has any 951 part and prices them well.
The factory boost gauge is notorious for being inaccurate. The odo gear is an easy job. That brake reservoir... whoever thought it was a good idea to patch it with resin was an idiot! That blue hose can either be replaced with a factory blue hose, or a piece of hydraulic hose from autozone. I don't know if anyone's ever fixed a rear wiper motor, they usually just get replaced, or deleted!
Nice looking car, I look forward to meeting you and it.
There's also a user named Lart who parts out 951s as a hobby, though he does it so much you'd think this is how he makes a living. No, he's a city councilman. But he probably has any 951 part and prices them well.
The factory boost gauge is notorious for being inaccurate. The odo gear is an easy job. That brake reservoir... whoever thought it was a good idea to patch it with resin was an idiot! That blue hose can either be replaced with a factory blue hose, or a piece of hydraulic hose from autozone. I don't know if anyone's ever fixed a rear wiper motor, they usually just get replaced, or deleted!
Nice looking car, I look forward to meeting you and it.
#32
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Thread Starter
I actually ended up doing a bit of research and finding out that Vanguard Motors in SF was the last to work on the car (timing belt in '09), though the P/O refused work on the turbo as he was still trying to get the garage in NV that screwed it up in the first place to make it right (he didn't get around to it). Vanguard has an awesome reputation and are public transit distance from my home, so I'm going to start there.
Took a longer drive today on real roads (dropping off motorcycle wheels for straightening and new rubber), and the car is definitely NOT coming anywhere close to full boost and is getting somewhere around 10MPG (!). Something is definitely wrong. I can hear a loud whooshing/sucking sound coming from the turbo area that is not the turbo whine (can also hear that), but don't know what I properly running 951 sounds like so it may not be the leak in the turbo plumbing that I suspect.
Took a longer drive today on real roads (dropping off motorcycle wheels for straightening and new rubber), and the car is definitely NOT coming anywhere close to full boost and is getting somewhere around 10MPG (!). Something is definitely wrong. I can hear a loud whooshing/sucking sound coming from the turbo area that is not the turbo whine (can also hear that), but don't know what I properly running 951 sounds like so it may not be the leak in the turbo plumbing that I suspect.
#33
RL Community Team
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I know Gary Vanguard, he used to be our mechanic before I learned to wrench. I've seen him do good work, and not so good work, but for the most part he's a great wrench, and not a bad guy. But he used to charge us up the A$$!
I don't have much experience diagnosing problems on turbos, but it sounds like a leak in the intake system. Maybe a torn J boot or cracked air hose.
I don't have much experience diagnosing problems on turbos, but it sounds like a leak in the intake system. Maybe a torn J boot or cracked air hose.
#36
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Thread Starter
Well folks, here's the initial damage just to make it safe and that doesn't even get me started on the low boost problem:
Alternator (reman from Bosch) - $715 parts and labor
Brake master cylinder (new) - $755 p&l
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With battery and new clutch hose, total - $1620 p&l
It ain't cheap, but it sounds in the ballpark of what I would expect.
THEN we can start diagnosing the turbo. This is going to be one expensive free car. If I had other transport, I'd just store it and start saving for the LS swap.
Alternator (reman from Bosch) - $715 parts and labor
Brake master cylinder (new) - $755 p&l
--------------------------------------------
With battery and new clutch hose, total - $1620 p&l
It ain't cheap, but it sounds in the ballpark of what I would expect.
THEN we can start diagnosing the turbo. This is going to be one expensive free car. If I had other transport, I'd just store it and start saving for the LS swap.
#37
Three Wheelin'
Thats what you get when you have to pay $90 - $110 an hour for labor I guess?
The Bosch alternator rebuilt with new belt is about $250 and takes 1 1/3 hours to change
Brake master cylinder with new resevoir and brake bleeding with new fluid is about $220 and takes 2 1/2 hrs to perform
The Bosch alternator rebuilt with new belt is about $250 and takes 1 1/3 hours to change
Brake master cylinder with new resevoir and brake bleeding with new fluid is about $220 and takes 2 1/2 hrs to perform
#38
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Thread Starter
Thats what you get when you have to pay $90 - $110 an hour for labor I guess?
The Bosch alternator rebuilt with new belt is about $250 and takes 1 1/3 hours to change
Brake master cylinder with new resevoir and brake bleeding with new fluid is about $220 and takes 2 1/2 hrs to perform
The Bosch alternator rebuilt with new belt is about $250 and takes 1 1/3 hours to change
Brake master cylinder with new resevoir and brake bleeding with new fluid is about $220 and takes 2 1/2 hrs to perform
Prices on the alternator and m/c were $280 and $450 respectively. Pelican would be $220 and $365 (w/res). Labor is $210/hr. Lots of pain to be had all around.
The alternator is beyond what I can do, but I can probably tackle the master cylinder. Challenge is my apartment just instituted a "no working on cars" policy in our garage. The car isn't drivable, but I can tow it elsewhere I suppose.
#39
RL Community Team
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Wow! Maybe I should forget aerospace and open up a shop!
I would think it's the other way around - changing the MC is tricky, it involves bleeding the system (helper or tool), contorting under the dash, etc... the alternator is really straightforward. You could probably do it in an hour or two at a kragen parking lot if you wanted to. Check out http://www.clarks-garage.com/shop-ma...ure-index3.htm
I would think it's the other way around - changing the MC is tricky, it involves bleeding the system (helper or tool), contorting under the dash, etc... the alternator is really straightforward. You could probably do it in an hour or two at a kragen parking lot if you wanted to. Check out http://www.clarks-garage.com/shop-ma...ure-index3.htm