if you have a sloppy shifter, this could be why.
#33
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I still think this is one of the best methods out there. Very similar to the brass tube but eliminates all metal-to-metal contact. When the plastic bushings wear out pop the clip and install 2 new ones. They cost a whopping $1.24 for 2 of them.
http://www.dietersmotorsports.com/tech/tech-july-03.htm
http://www.dietersmotorsports.com/tech/tech-july-03.htm
#34
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Originally Posted by KuHL 951
I still think this is one of the best methods out there. Very similar to the brass tube but eliminates all metal-to-metal contact. When the plastic bushings wear out pop the clip and install 2 new ones. They cost a whopping $1.24 for 2 of them.
http://www.dietersmotorsports.com/tech/tech-july-03.htm
http://www.dietersmotorsports.com/tech/tech-july-03.htm
Doing the brass tube fix makes the pin a cylinder again, drilling the shift rod makes that a cylinder again, and adding the bushings makes the repair last longer.
#36
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www.autopartsworld.com has the OEM shift lever for $35. Spend another $15 and you'll get free shipping.
#37
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Originally Posted by KuHL 951
I still think this is one of the best methods out there. Very similar to the brass tube but eliminates all metal-to-metal contact. When the plastic bushings wear out pop the clip and install 2 new ones. They cost a whopping $1.24 for 2 of them.
http://www.dietersmotorsports.com/tech/tech-july-03.htm
http://www.dietersmotorsports.com/tech/tech-july-03.htm
#39
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Sorry no pic. But Clark's Garage has a good writeup with pics and exploded diagrams here.
http://www.clarks-garage.com/shop-manual/trans-07.htm
Cheers mates!
Rob
http://www.clarks-garage.com/shop-manual/trans-07.htm
Cheers mates!
Rob
#40
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This totally reminds me of the first days of the internet, where you read how great the **** was and when the pic FINALLY loaded it was the ugliest 89 year old you've ever seen! I read the first dozen or so posts...and was very enthusiastic, as I have a loose shifter (not a euphemism!) and the pic is but a red X.....Dang! These pics of the shifter fix are like Big foot to those unlucky few who can't see them. So I beg you...help me fix my shifter (again not a euphemism)
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#41
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that clarks garage link is cool and all but i still dont have any idea of what excatly what im looking for, a picture would be super helpfull, this weekend me n my buddy are gonna be putting the porshe up on blocks and checking her out, so id like to fix this problem as well. thanxs in advance
#42
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Agreed. I'm sure on some level that clarks garage thing is useful, but it doesnt show me what I need to see! I just thought maybe the shifter was supposed to have that much play in it. Please someone repost those pictures!
#43
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Originally Posted by Drewsifer
Agreed. I'm sure on some level that clarks garage thing is useful, but it doesnt show me what I need to see! I just thought maybe the shifter was supposed to have that much play in it. Please someone repost those pictures!
As a rule of thumb after the Dieters style repair on both of mine, my shifter doesn't move more than 1/4" in any direction (slack) when engaged. They should feel very tioght and precise, not like a loose fence post.
#44
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Originally Posted by KuHL 951
As a rule of thumb after the Dieters style repair on both of mine, my shifter doesn't move more than 1/4" in any direction (slack) when engaged. They should feel very tioght and precise, not like a loose fence post.
#45
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Originally Posted by Drewsifer
Yeah, even when in gear my shifter moves at least two inches side to side. Sometimes it feels kinda vague, but I always figured it was me still learning the in's and out's of a manual.
If yours moves 2" you at least have inspect it and to pull up the boot under the shifter,r emove off the circlip off the end of the pin that goes through the black shift tube. If the pin is hourglassed at the ends you need to do some version of the shift lever/shift tube repair because your shift rod will be all worn out also. If your pin is straight with no slop at the shifter, go to the transaxle and tighten the bolt everyone is talking about at the shift linkage. I bet your problem is in the shift lever though from what you describe. A good way to tell is if it's real hard to engage reverse because the lever hits the metal frame behind the shifter before it goes into gear. Yours must feel like an old VW with 2" of slack. Again that dieters link I posted above is a great repair if you have to buy a new shift lever. Some people just grind off the old pin, tap threads/or weld a 3/8" bolt instead on the lever. Either way works as long as you fix it.