if you have a sloppy shifter, this could be why.
08-17-2003, 02:02 PM
#16
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Great info on the linkage. Thanks guys. My problem is that my shifter is very stiff moving side to side. I can select all gears and there are no funny noises. It's just harder to move the lever to the side when shifting. Cold or warm makes no difference. I disassembled the shift lever and found no issues at that end. Any ideas on what is going on? Thanks.
08-17-2003, 03:02 PM
#18
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This should go up there as "one of the easiest fixes that probably everyone needs to do" posts. Genius. Pure genius.
Maybe we could start a tip of the week kind of thing, but that might be hard to organize.... any thoughts???
Maybe we could start a tip of the week kind of thing, but that might be hard to organize.... any thoughts???
10-15-2003, 09:14 AM
#19
Burning Brakes
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PERRY - YOU ROCK!!! My shifter was getting real sloppy front to back. I did a search, and your picture helped immensely. It took longer putting the car on ramps than it took to find that bolt and tighten it.
Thanks.
Thanks.
10-15-2003, 09:23 AM
#20
Three Wheelin'
Originally posted by Brian Wilson
This should go up there as "one of the easiest fixes that probably everyone needs to do" posts. Genius. Pure genius.
This should go up there as "one of the easiest fixes that probably everyone needs to do" posts. Genius. Pure genius.
07-25-2005, 06:01 PM
#21
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Sorry to bring back an old post but the pictures that Perry 951 posted are not showing up. Perry 951 if you see this can you please repost or PM me the pictures and this is my exact issue. Thanks
07-25-2005, 10:40 PM
#24
Three Wheelin'
Here is another fix you can try:
Pull the shift boot up, remove the clip that holds the shifter **** on, pull the shifter **** and both the inner and outer shift boots off of the shifter.
At this point you should be able to see where the shifter connects to the shift rod. The shifter is held to the shift rod by an 'E' clip. Pull the 'E' clip and pull the shift rod off of the shifter.
Now look at the pin the shift rod was connected to. It should be a nice smooth cylinder, but chances are it is won at the ends and is "fat" in the middle.
To fix this you need some 7/16" O.D. (Outside Diameter) brass tubing, a drill with a 7/16" bit, some JB Weld, and some grease. You can find the tubing at your local R/C Hobby shop.
All you need to do is drill out the end of the shift rod to 7/16", cut a short piece of tubing to fit over the pin on the shifter with some clearance for the 'E' clip, glue the tubing to the shifter pin, and then let the epoxy set. When the epoxy has set, put some grease on the brass tubing and on the inside of the shift rod, connect the shifter to the shift rod, install the 'E' clip, and check out the NEW shifter.
A more drastic fix is to pull the shifter, grind off the pin, and then use a bolt as a replacement.
One final note: Be carefull when you drill the shift rod. The bit is running close to the center console, and it's real easy to ding it up....
Pull the shift boot up, remove the clip that holds the shifter **** on, pull the shifter **** and both the inner and outer shift boots off of the shifter.
At this point you should be able to see where the shifter connects to the shift rod. The shifter is held to the shift rod by an 'E' clip. Pull the 'E' clip and pull the shift rod off of the shifter.
Now look at the pin the shift rod was connected to. It should be a nice smooth cylinder, but chances are it is won at the ends and is "fat" in the middle.
To fix this you need some 7/16" O.D. (Outside Diameter) brass tubing, a drill with a 7/16" bit, some JB Weld, and some grease. You can find the tubing at your local R/C Hobby shop.
All you need to do is drill out the end of the shift rod to 7/16", cut a short piece of tubing to fit over the pin on the shifter with some clearance for the 'E' clip, glue the tubing to the shifter pin, and then let the epoxy set. When the epoxy has set, put some grease on the brass tubing and on the inside of the shift rod, connect the shifter to the shift rod, install the 'E' clip, and check out the NEW shifter.
A more drastic fix is to pull the shifter, grind off the pin, and then use a bolt as a replacement.
One final note: Be carefull when you drill the shift rod. The bit is running close to the center console, and it's real easy to ding it up....
07-25-2005, 11:06 PM
#25
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Originally Posted by Charlotte944
Here is another fix you can try:
Pull the shift boot up, remove the clip that holds the shifter **** on, pull the shifter **** and both the inner and outer shift boots off of the shifter.
At this point you should be able to see where the shifter connects to the shift rod. The shifter is held to the shift rod by an 'E' clip. Pull the 'E' clip and pull the shift rod off of the shifter.
Now look at the pin the shift rod was connected to. It should be a nice smooth cylinder, but chances are it is won at the ends and is "fat" in the middle.
To fix this you need some 7/16" O.D. (Outside Diameter) brass tubing, a drill with a 7/16" bit, some JB Weld, and some grease. You can find the tubing at your local R/C Hobby shop.
All you need to do is drill out the end of the shift rod to 7/16", cut a short piece of tubing to fit over the pin on the shifter with some clearance for the 'E' clip, glue the tubing to the shifter pin, and then let the epoxy set. When the epoxy has set, put some grease on the brass tubing and on the inside of the shift rod, connect the shifter to the shift rod, install the 'E' clip, and check out the NEW shifter.
A more drastic fix is to pull the shifter, grind off the pin, and then use a bolt as a replacement.
One final note: Be carefull when you drill the shift rod. The bit is running close to the center console, and it's real easy to ding it up....
Pull the shift boot up, remove the clip that holds the shifter **** on, pull the shifter **** and both the inner and outer shift boots off of the shifter.
At this point you should be able to see where the shifter connects to the shift rod. The shifter is held to the shift rod by an 'E' clip. Pull the 'E' clip and pull the shift rod off of the shifter.
Now look at the pin the shift rod was connected to. It should be a nice smooth cylinder, but chances are it is won at the ends and is "fat" in the middle.
To fix this you need some 7/16" O.D. (Outside Diameter) brass tubing, a drill with a 7/16" bit, some JB Weld, and some grease. You can find the tubing at your local R/C Hobby shop.
All you need to do is drill out the end of the shift rod to 7/16", cut a short piece of tubing to fit over the pin on the shifter with some clearance for the 'E' clip, glue the tubing to the shifter pin, and then let the epoxy set. When the epoxy has set, put some grease on the brass tubing and on the inside of the shift rod, connect the shifter to the shift rod, install the 'E' clip, and check out the NEW shifter.
A more drastic fix is to pull the shifter, grind off the pin, and then use a bolt as a replacement.
One final note: Be carefull when you drill the shift rod. The bit is running close to the center console, and it's real easy to ding it up....
I didnt glue the tubing on, I left it free. It can wear all it wants, theres two more feet left
Works great so far.
07-25-2005, 11:34 PM
#26
Three Wheelin'
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Yeeees I saw this thread and also would like to see this magical bolt. That description I'm sure makes complete sense to everyone else, but I need a pic, or I'll be under there for 5 hours. Can anyone help?
07-26-2005, 09:18 AM
#27
Three Wheelin'
Originally Posted by theedge
I didnt glue the tubing on, I left it free. It can wear all it wants, theres two more feet left Works great so far.
Works great so far.Trust me, use the JB WEld.
07-26-2005, 09:27 AM
#28
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Originally Posted by Carl Nall
You might want to lube the linkage at the trans... The shaft moves laterally (and front to back) within the end linkage pictured below:
Good luck.
Good luck.
Just apply some grease to that ??
07-26-2005, 12:40 PM
#30
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Originally Posted by Charlotte944
Your "fix" won't last very long because the tubing doesn't have any internal mechanical support, so after a very short time the ends will deform and the shifter will get sloppy.
Trust me, use the JB WEld.
Trust me, use the JB WEld.