BlackOp

Last night, took a corner and had a big cloud of the dreaded white smoke. Pulled over and shut the car down...I have had an elusive coolant leak for a while but the car was running perfect. It's why I didnt think it was the HG...literally ran like is was new, even yesterday. No cold idle shutter..purred at stop lights. So now what?

I have read various threads since last night but just wanted to confirm what parts I will need....car has 87k and is at a shop being tested.

#1 Do I need a Wildfire kit for an NA or is that overkill?
#2 What bolts/studs should be replaced ..if any?
#3. What preventive items should be replaced..."while I'm in there". Oil cooler seals are going to be done.
#4. Someone remind me why I bought a 24 year old Porsche..

roman944

you should use new cylinder head nuts

the rods would depend, I doubt that yours are bent, however, you can damage threads when removing head nuts

I was told not to use a WideFire gasket

... and you bought the car because there is NO other like it !

pettybird

What do you get for the two grand? That dictates whether it's a good deal or not. If he's pulling the head, having it resurfaced, and slamming in new gaskets, it's a lot. If he's going full-bore and replacing the almost-certainly-scored rod bearings, flushing the motor, etc, it's not bad.

You'll need new head washers and nuts at the very least. You probably need some exhaust manifold nuts, as well, but I was able to reuse mine. Get new spark plugs too. The head gasket kit is very complete, so no worries with extra gaskets. Make sure they replace your valve stem seals while it's all apart. Even if you've changed it recently I'd probably do another round of belts...cheap insurance, it's halfway off already, and the clock starts fresh. It's a lot easier to get at the oil cooler seals with no head on or manifolds in the way, too. Take a look at all of the hard-to-get-at small crap that's easier to get at with the head off, and replace them. The rear heater hoses and heater control valve come to mind. The wide fire gasket is a few bucks more, and I don't think you'll blow up a stock one. That said, it is extra protection. I went with standard when I was in your place.

You stand at the top of the very real slippery slope. I ended up buying $1300 in parts for my "while I'm there" job... And, not to sound like an *******, but figure out how long you're going to own the car. If you're keeping it for another six months, every dollar you spend is a dollar set on fire, from the perspective on returns. If, however, you're going to keep the car, you can justify staving off future headaches as an investment. Someone cares if they buy a 944 with a good head gasket. No one's going to pay more because you decided to replace your idle air solenoid or your (working) reference sensor.

John_AZ

This sounded familiar to me:
https://rennlist.com/forums/924-931-...ime-photo.html

Basic stuff
HG kit
2 Exhaust flange gaskets
New AOS seals-2-top and bottom
Replace all pinch hose clamps with screw non perforated or fuel injection hose clamps.
New ICV mounts if yours are cracked.

Flush the ICV with Gumout FI and throttle body cleaner

New vac hoses
Check the ICV hoses for cracks at the bends
If your air intake boot is cracked or hard replace

Have the head taken to a machine shop for the 3 angle grind, and surface touchup. Maybe need new valve guides or seats

New head nuts---can reuse washers if you scuff the bottom
Head bolts are at your choice----first time---not really necessary

Fuel injector seal kits---send the injectors off to be cleaned at www.witchhunter.com

New belts if needed.

Replace the heater control valve if you see a white deposit on the pivot---drips on clutch are bad.
DIY

http://members.rennlist.com/tom86951/headgasket.htm

Clean---clean---clean---slowly with acitone and do not scratch block or head.

Vacuum debris out from rear block between cyl and block----coolant gunk settles there

To clean or not to clean piston tops----post again. But do not remove the top cyl wall ridge. It helps the pistons during the compression stroke.

whoa!

GL
John

BlackOp

Thanks...I have all those items in a box waiting to be installed (ICV/mounts/hoses, HCV and AOS..just did all vacuum lines/ injectors).

So I should spring for valve guides.seats/seals? Should I replace the valves themselves/springs? I'm going to get copper manifold nuts, head huts/washers and the gasket kit should provide everything else needed? Should I go with a kevlar belt? TB/WP has 10k/3years on them.

John_AZ

Your machine shop will tell you if the seats/valve guides are bad or out of spec.

Kevlar belt is over kill for me. Just change the cam belt every 2nd or 3rd year. Pelican $11.75 ea

Copper manifold nuts ----somebody else to reply on this.

WSM says head washers can be reused if they are scuffed on the bottom and do not turn when torqued. Mark them in either case when you torque the head nuts.

TIP-- wait 30 minutes between the torque steps OR longer. This is important for the setting process.

GL
John

chrisc

If you are going to track or ax it, 951 valve springs and new exhaust valves are good preventive stuff since it's apart. Check the buckets carefully for wear.