do your windshield washer jets suck or is it just mine?
03-21-2002, 03:16 AM
#16
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It quite common problem on 944 models to have stucked nozzels.I suppose good instructions how to clean them are allready given.What comes to the problem to have less water on drivers side it is because of bad valve which is located on the water hose.Just replace that valve and you get equal amont of water from both nozzles.This valve cost about $1 from your local parts store.
Finn
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03-21-2002, 09:58 AM
#17
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Probably wax or other crud in the nozzle jets. Clean with fine wire or a very small pin. Or the check valves are crudded up; replace.
Don't waste a couple of hours like I did years ago trying (unsuccessfully) to clean 'em out.
And when they're right, there's plenty of flow & pressure. They'll almost spray the car behind you when sitting still... (means they're aimed just a tad too high!).
Jim, "If vegetarians eat vegetables, what do humanitarians eat?"
Don't waste a couple of hours like I did years ago trying (unsuccessfully) to clean 'em out.
And when they're right, there's plenty of flow & pressure. They'll almost spray the car behind you when sitting still... (means they're aimed just a tad too high!).
Jim, "If vegetarians eat vegetables, what do humanitarians eat?"
03-21-2002, 10:32 AM
#18
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[quote] Clean with fine wire or a very small pin <hr></blockquote>
A wire from a steel wire brush is just fine and strong enough so it wont fold up inside the nozzle.
If you have a problem with the pump, then replace by an early VW Golf unit. Is exactly the same...
VW systems do not have the check valves (nor the heated nozzles) so if you are realy desperate you might take the check valves out. The pump discharge tees in back to the tank, this then has to be plugged.
[quote] Jim, "If vegetarians eat vegetables, what do humanitarians eat?"
<hr></blockquote>
Good question... donnow... Does this imply that I am not humanitarian????
TakeCare
A wire from a steel wire brush is just fine and strong enough so it wont fold up inside the nozzle.
If you have a problem with the pump, then replace by an early VW Golf unit. Is exactly the same...
VW systems do not have the check valves (nor the heated nozzles) so if you are realy desperate you might take the check valves out. The pump discharge tees in back to the tank, this then has to be plugged.
[quote] Jim, "If vegetarians eat vegetables, what do humanitarians eat?"
<hr></blockquote>
Good question... donnow... Does this imply that I am not humanitarian????
TakeCare
03-21-2002, 11:33 AM
#20
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Paul, If the nozzle's not plugged on that side, look under the hood & trace the lines. IIRC (been several years), there's a seperate check valve for each nozzle; one in the tee where the line from the pump splits, and one inline on the other side. Start at the driver's side nozzle, trace the line back to the check valve. If it's like what I think I recall on my '88 na, it'll be a little cylindrical fittiing made of translucent plastic. Cut the clamps off, pull it out, see if you can blow thru it. Should pass air (or water) freely in one direction, but not the other (check valve).
Jim, gone back to lab to play with heavy objects...
Jim, gone back to lab to play with heavy objects...
03-22-2002, 08:11 AM
#22
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Thanks JIm 968,I now have 2 working nozzels!!It was the check valveclosest to the driner side sprayer.I bypassed it compleatly ,thier was enough hose to fit directly to the sprayer.I had to adjust the aim point of the sprayers!Any harm in not useing the 2nd check valve?Also thanks Madmax I used zip ties to secure every thing. <img src="graemlins/wave.gif" border="0" alt="[byebye]" /> <img src="graemlins/jumper.gif" border="0" alt="[jumper]" />
03-22-2002, 09:43 AM
#23
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Matt, Doubt I'll be able to make it. A family situation keeps me tied pretty close to town (Mom ..83... had a stroke a couple of years ago, and I wound up moving her in with me). I can't be gone much more than about seven or eight hours at a time without making special arrangements, so I'd wind up spending that driving and have time to say "Hi!' and turn around and go back. Also, we start summer semester the next day... 
Maybe next year. But y'all have fun!
Paul, I dunno about the purpose of the check valves; I can see two reasons, both of which may be wrong... one, to give you quicker spray delivery (hey, we expect high performance in all aspects of our cars!); two, to make sure there's some water in the nozzle whenever the heaters are on to keep them from burning out....????
What I've noticed owning two of these cars for a total of ~eight years is that Porsche seems to have a lot of trouble with plastic parts; check valves, cassette cubby hinges, sunvisor hooks, carpet snaps, etc... dunno if it's a design thing, or a compounding / manufacturing issue. I sometimes wonder if they farmed out the plastics work to The British car industry....
Jim, "If 'con' is the opposite of 'pro', what is the opposite of 'progress'?"
Maybe next year. But y'all have fun!Paul, I dunno about the purpose of the check valves; I can see two reasons, both of which may be wrong... one, to give you quicker spray delivery (hey, we expect high performance in all aspects of our cars!); two, to make sure there's some water in the nozzle whenever the heaters are on to keep them from burning out....????
What I've noticed owning two of these cars for a total of ~eight years is that Porsche seems to have a lot of trouble with plastic parts; check valves, cassette cubby hinges, sunvisor hooks, carpet snaps, etc... dunno if it's a design thing, or a compounding / manufacturing issue. I sometimes wonder if they farmed out the plastics work to The British car industry....
Jim, "If 'con' is the opposite of 'pro', what is the opposite of 'progress'?"
03-22-2002, 12:12 PM
#24
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[quote] Paul: Any harm in not useing the 2nd check valve? <hr></blockquote>
Dont worry about it
Mine has only one check valve in the main line to the hood, just near the hood shock.
No clamps or zip-ties, so I think some PO started hod-rodding the washer system
System works fine.
I am with Jim: the check valves are to prevent the nozzles from overheating.
TakeCare
Dont worry about it
Mine has only one check valve in the main line to the hood, just near the hood shock.
No clamps or zip-ties, so I think some PO started hod-rodding the washer system
System works fine.
I am with Jim: the check valves are to prevent the nozzles from overheating.
TakeCare
03-22-2002, 12:47 PM
#25
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well, i cleaned out my nozzles with a needle, spliced in a piece of vinyl tubing to make a better connection to the T fitting on the pressure side of the pump, and installed my new reservior cap from pelican (was using zip ties before). Now i get enough spray on the passenger side to hit the car behind me (literally) and fluid from all four nozzles, but the driver's side is still pretty weak.
i will look at that check valve next. question for those of you running without it: how long does it take after you hit the washer switch before you get fluid on your windshield? I always thought the purpose of the check valve was to make sure you got spray as soon as the wipers started to move so that you weren't dragging a dry wiper over your windshield and scratching it. I think i'd want to replace it if its absence meant 2 or 3 strokes across a dry dirty windshield every time i try to wash it, which is a lot.
i will look at that check valve next. question for those of you running without it: how long does it take after you hit the washer switch before you get fluid on your windshield? I always thought the purpose of the check valve was to make sure you got spray as soon as the wipers started to move so that you weren't dragging a dry wiper over your windshield and scratching it. I think i'd want to replace it if its absence meant 2 or 3 strokes across a dry dirty windshield every time i try to wash it, which is a lot.
03-22-2002, 12:51 PM
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well, i cleaned out my nozzles with a needle, spliced in a piece of vinyl tubing to make a better connection to the T fitting on the pressure side of the pump, and installed my new reservior cap from pelican (was using zip ties before). Now i get enough spray on the passenger side to hit the car behind me (literally) and fluid from all four nozzles, but the driver's side is still pretty weak.
i will look at that check valve next. question for those of you running without it: how long does it take after you hit the washer switch before you get fluid on your windshield? I always thought the purpose of the check valve was to make sure you got spray as soon as the wipers started to move so that you weren't dragging a dry wiper over your windshield and scratching it. I think i'd want to replace it if its absence meant 2 or 3 strokes across a dry dirty windshield every time i try to wash it, which is a lot.
i will look at that check valve next. question for those of you running without it: how long does it take after you hit the washer switch before you get fluid on your windshield? I always thought the purpose of the check valve was to make sure you got spray as soon as the wipers started to move so that you weren't dragging a dry wiper over your windshield and scratching it. I think i'd want to replace it if its absence meant 2 or 3 strokes across a dry dirty windshield every time i try to wash it, which is a lot.
03-22-2002, 12:57 PM
#27
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I GET ABOUT 1 WIPE BEFORE THE WASHER FLUID SPRAY,IT ALWAYS DID THAT,even with the check valve.about a 3 sec delay from pushing the lever until washer fluid sprays. <img src="graemlins/a_smil17.gif" border="0" alt="[blabla]" />
03-22-2002, 01:38 PM
#28
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The best thing to clean washer nozzles with is a Dental Root canal file.. it's like a small wire with abrasives on it and a little handle.. Find an endodontist in you area and ask for a set usally one breaks and they'll give it to you. They work much better than needles since they pull out the crap not just push it around.
Matt
Matt
