Kerry Chadderton

Let me rephrase that. I've done maybe a couple dozen or so clutch jobs in my lifetime. I was an engine builder/machinist for 12 years. I know the basics and the normal clutch replacement techniques.

What do I need to know that is specific to the '84 944 when doing a clutch job? Tips? Shortcuts? Land mines?

JohnKoaWood

IMHO, it is easier to pull the motor out than to drop the driveline..

Added bonus is the ability to take care of any nagging engine issues (leaks and such).

Yes I have done it both ways.

While it is apart slot the bellhousing at the speed / refference sensors for much easier adjustment of the sensors / installation of everything..

Consider doing the rear main seal while it is apart, as you would hate to have to take it all back apart again for a stupid seal.

I think if I had to have the clutch in my N/A done again I could have it knocked out in a decent weekend... taking lots of breaks.

Mike C.

Run away! Just take your time whichever way you do it. If you have a hoist, I agree dropping the motor is easier. If not and you can't afford or don't have easy access to one, dropping the tranny using a rigged up hydraulic jack has been done many a time.

CorsePerVita

Have ALL the tools you need ready. Expect to replace things. It takes a LONG time to do it on an 84' (mine is an 84' and finished the job last night).

I even rebuilt my torque tube.

Things I had issues with...

- Bellhousing bolts - a few of them are pinched up in corners. Have a u-joint adapter and a few long extensions to get to them.
- Get some good lithium grease for lube, make sure you follow the directions
- Take your time, forgetting something minor once you are down there means you get to do it over again, NOT FUN.
- Some say removing the engine is easier, I can see why. However, I had other things I needed to do like rebuild the torque tube so I did it the normal way
- Lowering the suspension (if you need to do your torque tube, which if it's old, is probably recommended) is a real pain in the ***. Remember to have a few jacks ready, and to be prepared on lining it back up. Put it back in order of taking it apart. Big bolts first, then the 3 bolts on each side to hold the torsion bar. Then reverse, torsion bolts first, THEN big bolts otherwise they will not line up.
- Don't forget to DISCONNECT YOUR BRAKE LINES on the rear if you lower the suspension to remove the torque tube.
- Put all your bolts in containers, my garage was a war zone. Took me a while to find some of them.
- Have parts you need ON HAND. Do not WAIT to order them and see if it's broke. Just buy a kit that has /everything/ you need and replace it and be done with it. I've seen people buy just the clutch and turn the flywheel, then find out the fork release bearings are chewing up the rod, and then the slave cylinder goes out from the extra pressure, or the pilot bearing goes out, or the torque tube bearings end up sounding like wailing death. If it's questionable on age, just replace it, do it, take your time, and be done and have a giant smile on your face when it is done.

Patience patience patience.

Kerry Chadderton

Hmmm. Dropping the engine or pulling the rear....good question.

Shop equipment isn't an issue, although there is nothing else that my engine needs to be removed for. In fact, its very sound and smooth. I'd hate to loosen anything there! What is so hard exactly about coming in through the rear? It seems to me that the whole front end has to be pulled apart in order to get the engine out?

I have these parts ordered:

PP
Disk
pilot bearing
TO bearing
tube guide
rear main seal
slave cylinder rebuild kit

What am I missing?

JohnKoaWood

Clutch hydraulic line, fork bearings, 12 point drivers for the flywheel bolts, flywheel bolts, PP hardware, transmission drain plug tool (large allen key), exhaust hardware, exhaust seal rings, I might be missing something here...

I believe pulling the torque tube is easier on an early car vs a late car as the late car requires the rear suspension to be dropped to get the torque tube out.

FWIW, I had the motor out of my 951 in a day, by myself, on a gravel driveway..

The rear of my 88 N/A took two of us 4 days on concrete in a garage...

In reality, while it seems like much more to pull the motor than the trans and torque tube, having done both I would rather pull the motor than the other way..

Motor is just 6 bolts more than disconnecting the bellhousing...

JohnKoaWood

OH and rear main seal installation is on here, several different approaches..

Dont forget the 12 point driver for the CV shafts as well if pulling the rear!

John_AZ

Ready??

Clutch fork bearings-2
The clutch fork shaft/rod can be reused if the needle bearings have not worn deep into the rod. Otherwise a new fork rod can be gently polished to remove surface, slight needle bearing grooves.

Clutch fork----check for cracks, sometimes it is bent. Smooth out the ends that ride on the TO with a 80 grit grinder---not deeper.

Exhaust manifold flange gaskets-2

New FW bolts--the old bolts stretch. PP bolts can be reused-maybe.

You might want to replace the heat sheild by the bell housing. This stuff is miserable. It is either asbestos or fiberglass. It gets on your skin and in your throat. OH-----a case of beer and a First Aid kit----good to have.

The sound deadener/foam under the shift lever on top of the torque tube. Usually in crappy condition. Used sells for $20 shipped +-.

The unknown?????

With your experience and shop tools, I would leave the engine in. The engine harness is brittle-----per your recent experience with the DME. Why add to the possibility of additional problems with an engine take out??

Links:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...-pictures.html
http://www-public.tu-bs.de:8080/~y00...944clutch.html
https://rennlist.com/forums/924-931-...lutch-job.html
http://www.924.org/techsection/ClutchReplacement.htm

RMS info:
https://rennlist.com/forums/944-turb...all-depth.html

Finally a recent clutch job---CorsePerVita!!
https://rennlist.com/forums/924-931-...placement.html

enough

GL
John

JohnKoaWood

Just posted this in another thread that brought back some BAD memories of my first 944 clutch job...

Side note for posterity:

IF you strip a PP bolt, you only need to drill off the head, once the head is off the bolt, remove the PP.. the remaining portion of the bolt can then be removed using your fingers as there is NO load on the bolt, the load is carried by the head!

Recap, if you strip a PP bolt, remove the head of the bolt.. no need for screw extractors or additional stress.. I have removed multiple PP bolts on two different cars using this meathod.

aben8057

Kerry,

Its also an ideal time to repack your CV joints, flush trans fluid and bearings on clutch fork.

Kerry Chadderton

Ah, this is a Porsche topic that certainly brings people together! I have visions of beer drinking and campfire tales of the dreaded 944 clutch job!

Okay I'm going in though the back because; A: The engine is safe and sound. B: I need to thoroughly check out/rebuild the CV and Trans. C: The torque tube is a 140,000 mile unknown.

Here's my part list so far:

PP
Disk
Pilot bearing
TO bearing
Tube guide
Rear main seal
Slave cylinder rebuild kit
Clutch Hose
Clutch fork bearings
CV boots
Exhaust Manifold Flange Gaskets
Bolts = All the "replaceables"
Exhaust hangers
First Aid Kit
Beer

Thanks again to all who have posted since I bought this car. If it weren't for you I probably would have set it ablaze a month ago when I couldn't get it started! That's not really a joke. Fire was suggested and considered at one point. I was a fixin' to get medieval on it!

JohnKoaWood

A nice chicken sacrifice, or even goat, goes so much farther than fire IMHO..

YMMV!

RDL

PAY SOMEONE ELSE TO DO THE JOB!

944Ross

Having just done motor mounts, I'd rather pull a trans 4 times than have to screw with them. I had my CVs down, exhaust off, and transaxle on the ground in 3 hours, including all the fooling around with the shifter and shifter rod.

Early cars have a BH bolt up high on the driver's side that is only about an inch from a brake line or fuel line, I forget which, and about the only way to get it is with a combination u-joint 6-point socket like below. A complete set is ~$40 at Sears, and you'll get plenty of use out of them.

kobayashi

+1 on pulling the engine. I have done a clutch job from both directions.

Rod Bearings. That's why I had the pleasure of looking at my previously installed clutch when the engine was pulled. It was in good shape after a month!