Hatch shocks-----Be careful, is you replace the hatch shocks with brand new high pressure shocks you may separate the glass from the metal frame-----very, very common. I get my hatch shocks "used" (recent parts cars). It stops the hatch rattle and will still keep the hatch up. They will not lift the hatch "automatically".

Engine mounts. Do not go cheap. OEM the best but very expensive. Rein has has a couple of good reviews. The cheap mounts will last only a few thousand miles.

GL
John

 

+1

I had my old NA engine mounts replaced with the OEM Turbo mounts. The old mounts were shot; I couldn't believe the difference. Other threads on here point to the turbo mounts being tougher so I'd go for them.

 

Dammit guys !!!

You know, I sweat the big stuff and ask questions but don't bother asking about what I think is the small stuff. It's too late for the engine mounts. I bought the URO cheap aftermarket ones. They're installed as of Monday! And I also bought two nice, new hatch shocks. They're so strong I thought they were faulty. In fact I bought new latch assemblies just to hold the hatch down!

Hmm, now what?

I'll figure something out on the hatch. I certainly don't want that coming apart. And I'll just replace the engine mounts again when they go bad. It'll be quicker the second time around...hopefully.

Now back to the original topic:

There was a lot of driveline slop. I started with the wheels and worked toward the clutch. First, the hubs were loose!!! With the cotter pins intact!!! Somone didn't do a good job torquing! I took the assemblies apart and checked for damage. The bearings should be replaced soon but otherwise there was no sign of damage. Apparently the car was not driven very long this way. I torqued them right this time!

The CVs seem fine as does the ring and pinion backlash. However the "driveshaft" moves approximately a 1/4 turn with the clutch engaged. That is where the noise is coming from, or at least it sounds identical. This is the clutch disk, right?

If so, I'll rebuild the CVs while I have them out to do the clutch.

BTW, with the new engine mounts and the hubs done properly, the car is so much quieter and "normal".

 

thx for the reply.

Here-you can prepare for the rear hatch repair----or just disconnect the shocks until you decide what to do.

http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...ss_repair2.htm
http://www.9xauto.com/hatch/hatchkit.pdf
https://rennlist.com/forums/924-931-...ing-hatch.html
http://www.9xauto.com/944a.htm
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...eparation.html

GL
John

 

JohnAZ- I'll look into that after I order a clutch.

I just read 16 pages on cheaper alternatives for the clutch. Great stuff, but I just want to do it and move on to something else with minimal hassle. In that thread you mentioned using the Vertex clutch. Two years later are you still happy with it? I went to their website and the total is $520 shipped for:

PP
Disk
TO bearing
Pilot bearing
Tube guide
Rear Main Seal

Yeah it's more expensive than most cars, but not too bad considering. If it's done right I won't have anything to worry about for many, many miles.

 

Yes, very happy. I put it in the '87---a year earlier I put an OEM Sachs in the '88.

The Vertex "Italian" is thicker than the OEM Sachs. I also like the mounting of the Raybestos material compared to the Sachs.

I reused my PP and FW. I repacked my TO. All small bearings and other parts,pilot bearing, FW bolts, TO guide shaft ++++ are new.

I had the FW ground and then Balanced the FW & PP ==total cost $125

The Italian disc "bites", grabs for the first couple of months. You begin to get the "feel" of the clutch pedal better. Now I am very happy with the install.

If you do the clutch, post and many will offer ways to make the work easier and with less frustration.

GL
John