Battery Ground(s) Replacement Cable
11-13-2002, 09:04 PM
#31
Three Wheelin'
Iceshark, madmax,
Thanks for the info & tips. I plan on running standard headlights and foglamps with new wiring and my stereo is nothing over the top ie 40WRMS x 4 for the mains and 40WRMSx2 for the subs. Hopefully that wont be too extreme, if I do see that dimming when the bass peaks I will look into adding the capacitor as suggested.
Thanks <img src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" />
Thanks for the info & tips. I plan on running standard headlights and foglamps with new wiring and my stereo is nothing over the top ie 40WRMS x 4 for the mains and 40WRMSx2 for the subs. Hopefully that wont be too extreme, if I do see that dimming when the bass peaks I will look into adding the capacitor as suggested.
Thanks <img src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" />
11-13-2002, 11:50 PM
#32
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Count me in on the negative cables for sure, possibly the positive if you get the connections set up. How much is the lighting kit, and what does it consist of? Thanks!
Arne.
Arne.
11-14-2002, 12:31 AM
#33
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
avainio,
You can read many old threads on Rennlist where I explain the lighting problems and solutions.
I doubt we will run across each other. If you see a black 951S with no rear badging, that is me! I don't know how you are going to figure this out, though. But would be nice to say HI to another 944 guy.
This package evolved from those discussions and solves the whole mess. Man, you are going to be the first Minnesota boy, so I need to figure out what to do about sales tax. I think I just need to charge you that and send on to the State.
The heart and soul of the upgrade is the wiring harness. Everything else builds off that base to get you up near true HID arc light performance. With the Cibie e-code lenses, many think you
are better.
The "Full Boat" package is as follows:
o (2) Cibie E-Code lenses at $90
o (4) 90/100 watt first class Phillips/Narva H-4 bulbs at $48 [$12 each, one spare pair as they will burn out in 1/3 rd the time as top quality
55/60 H4s and are hard and expensive to find on short notice, much less good quality. Price to pay for the extra halogen lumens]
o (1) adjustable voltage regulator with attached
brushes at $16.50
o (1) wiring harness (my manufacture) at $175
o Packing, shipping, and insurance at $20
o Total $349.50
Canada 3 bucks more. Just round it to $350. My Canuck customers need to talk to me about declared value so we can do something about fees there.
Anyway, that is the situation. I don't think there has been ANYONE that has been unhappy with the results. Just ask rennlist members. They are my best salesmen.
You can read many old threads on Rennlist where I explain the lighting problems and solutions.
I doubt we will run across each other. If you see a black 951S with no rear badging, that is me! I don't know how you are going to figure this out, though. But would be nice to say HI to another 944 guy.
This package evolved from those discussions and solves the whole mess. Man, you are going to be the first Minnesota boy, so I need to figure out what to do about sales tax. I think I just need to charge you that and send on to the State.
The heart and soul of the upgrade is the wiring harness. Everything else builds off that base to get you up near true HID arc light performance. With the Cibie e-code lenses, many think you
are better.
The "Full Boat" package is as follows:
o (2) Cibie E-Code lenses at $90
o (4) 90/100 watt first class Phillips/Narva H-4 bulbs at $48 [$12 each, one spare pair as they will burn out in 1/3 rd the time as top quality
55/60 H4s and are hard and expensive to find on short notice, much less good quality. Price to pay for the extra halogen lumens]
o (1) adjustable voltage regulator with attached
brushes at $16.50
o (1) wiring harness (my manufacture) at $175
o Packing, shipping, and insurance at $20
o Total $349.50
Canada 3 bucks more. Just round it to $350. My Canuck customers need to talk to me about declared value so we can do something about fees there.
Anyway, that is the situation. I don't think there has been ANYONE that has been unhappy with the results. Just ask rennlist members. They are my best salesmen.
11-14-2002, 01:24 PM
#34
I am running about 2300 Watt RMS in my 944. On the standard alt. and Bat. The key is having propper cabling. and a really good grownd. I run into thermo clipping before I run into power clipping. Also the car battery is new. The old one just could not hold the charge well. I still plan on gettting the 14.4v Voltage regulator from iceshark. seeing as the standard one is close to one volt less. And as you know that makes a hudge differance in the output of your amps. Rule of thumb is somethign like. "1 watt of power increase will heald 0.8 times the output." Remember that 99.999% of the amp company's out there rate there amps at 14.4 volts. Which you almost never see in your car. Well older ones at least. That is why a cap helps out so much. cause it can store and deliver some of the juice you loose at high output. The new thing on the market is the "batcap" ranging from (20% Capacitor and 80% Battery) to (70% Capacitor and 30% Battery). I heard some cood things about them. But have not used them personally. I intend getttign the the small 400 amp, 200 Farad model.. anyway.
more 2 cents to follow..
more 2 cents to follow..
11-14-2002, 01:29 PM
#35
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Rennlist Member
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[quote] I can't believe he just wrapped his old cracked cable with black tape and let it go. That was not a smart move, as he discovered.
<hr></blockquote>
Live and learn! Needless to say, there is a fiber shield on it now.
<hr></blockquote>
Live and learn! Needless to say, there is a fiber shield on it now.
11-14-2002, 09:26 PM
#36
Just a quick note. If you start your car with the engin ground removed, you will fry your DME.
I know it might be a bit <img src="graemlins/offtopic.gif" border="0" alt="[offtopic]" />
I know it might be a bit <img src="graemlins/offtopic.gif" border="0" alt="[offtopic]" />
12-04-2002, 11:16 AM
#38
Dan,
Add me to the list for both (that includes the one from the alternator and the battery ground, right?)
You know, maybe you should put together a new post with all the kit you have on offer. Maybe throw in that you may be the point man for the clear indicator lenses.
Add me to the list for both (that includes the one from the alternator and the battery ground, right?)
You know, maybe you should put together a new post with all the kit you have on offer. Maybe throw in that you may be the point man for the clear indicator lenses.
12-04-2002, 12:34 PM
#39
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
Jake, You note that you have an '83 euro. You are going to have to help me out a bit as I have never seen one in person.
Ryan D. came over to pick up his headlights and I looked at his early '85. He has a bare copper strap from the battery post to the firewall. Then another bare strap from the center of the engine bay side of firewall to bellhousing.
Do you have the same setup? Then I know what I'm doing. Ryan decided he wants a new style negative strap and will be sending me the length of the strap from battery to inner firewall, eye to eye. You do the same in case there is a difference.
As far as the run to the engine block, Ryan's car would be more or less the same length as the later 944's. All he needs to do is expand the rubber firewall grommet a little and run the new cable through. Does your engine ground strap go from the firewall to bellhousing? Then we will be OK there without measurements.
So take a look at the engine bay and let me know. You early model guys are probably going to see a huge improvement.
Manning, got you down and it will include a new, improved lead off the alternator.
I don't know what to make of the Swedes and the clear indicator lenses. They are not answering me very often.
<img src="graemlins/cussing.gif" border="0" alt="[grrrrrrr]" /> I wanted a lens to look at for quality and that may have stopped them cold even though I offered to pay for shipping it over the Pond.
Maybe I should get Olli to prod them a bit.
Ryan D. came over to pick up his headlights and I looked at his early '85. He has a bare copper strap from the battery post to the firewall. Then another bare strap from the center of the engine bay side of firewall to bellhousing.
Do you have the same setup? Then I know what I'm doing. Ryan decided he wants a new style negative strap and will be sending me the length of the strap from battery to inner firewall, eye to eye. You do the same in case there is a difference.
As far as the run to the engine block, Ryan's car would be more or less the same length as the later 944's. All he needs to do is expand the rubber firewall grommet a little and run the new cable through. Does your engine ground strap go from the firewall to bellhousing? Then we will be OK there without measurements.
So take a look at the engine bay and let me know. You early model guys are probably going to see a huge improvement.
Manning, got you down and it will include a new, improved lead off the alternator.
I don't know what to make of the Swedes and the clear indicator lenses. They are not answering me very often.
<img src="graemlins/cussing.gif" border="0" alt="[grrrrrrr]" /> I wanted a lens to look at for quality and that may have stopped them cold even though I offered to pay for shipping it over the Pond.Maybe I should get Olli to prod them a bit.
12-05-2002, 03:09 AM
#40
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
Oh Boy, I got the sample battery cable lugs today.
They are Great! Won't fit within the starter or alternator plastic walls, and only cost 1.32 USD wholesale, cut that by 20 cents if I order 300 of each eye size. so 600, $hit! We need 8 per kit.
And I was freaking over the millitary battery clamps at about 2 bucks each. At least they have a bunch of hidden qualities like the internal steel spring.
WOW! This is turning into a cost nightmare.
I did order a 250' spool of #1 gauge for a reasonable price. That sucker is going to weigh a LOT! Anyone want to help me carry that out of the truck and put on the rod? <img src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" />
That is the update from here.
They are Great! Won't fit within the starter or alternator plastic walls, and only cost 1.32 USD wholesale, cut that by 20 cents if I order 300 of each eye size. so 600, $hit! We need 8 per kit.
And I was freaking over the millitary battery clamps at about 2 bucks each. At least they have a bunch of hidden qualities like the internal steel spring.
WOW! This is turning into a cost nightmare.
I did order a 250' spool of #1 gauge for a reasonable price. That sucker is going to weigh a LOT! Anyone want to help me carry that out of the truck and put on the rod? <img src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" />
That is the update from here.
12-13-2002, 06:10 AM
#42
Three Wheelin'
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sounds good so far - i'm still interested. quick slightly OT question, can i buy JUST your wire-harness for the headlights? I have some e-codes (not sure what brand, gotta run out and check but it's 5am and i'm cold) and want to run better bulbs than these sylvania / piaa crap i've been using the past couple of times... plz email me (dmoffitt@rochester.rr.com) if you could sell me this - and also of course to keep me posted on the battery cables 
12-15-2002, 06:16 PM
#43
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
Update:
I've completed the prototype battery cable upgrade with the exception of the alternator to starter run. Built master copies, recorded specs and reinstalled. It looks pretty good, if I say so myself.
The alternator to starter run is awaiting the sample fuses that you can't get unless you are Cadillac or Benz or one of them big boyz. Once those are received, evaluated and installed, it is build time. <img src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" /> Provided the manufacturer will let me buy some. This fuse product is not available to aftermarket, only the major auto and heavy equipment builders.
I'm working out the costs now and it is more expensive than I thought it would be. Not as expensive as a lighting harness, but all these high quality large gauge cable parts are mighty expensive.
Craig001, I missed your post to this thread but I will add you to the battery cable list. If you want a headlight wiringing harness, I have a couple left from the last build of a little over a month ago. In the future e-mail me at wraydan@msn.com so I'm sure to get your message.
dmoffitt, I'll add you to the battery cable list, but see my note to Craig re: e-mail. Yes, you can buy just the headlight wiring harness, I have a few left on hand. I'll e-mail you.
I've completed the prototype battery cable upgrade with the exception of the alternator to starter run. Built master copies, recorded specs and reinstalled. It looks pretty good, if I say so myself.
The alternator to starter run is awaiting the sample fuses that you can't get unless you are Cadillac or Benz or one of them big boyz. Once those are received, evaluated and installed, it is build time. <img src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" /> Provided the manufacturer will let me buy some. This fuse product is not available to aftermarket, only the major auto and heavy equipment builders.
I'm working out the costs now and it is more expensive than I thought it would be. Not as expensive as a lighting harness, but all these high quality large gauge cable parts are mighty expensive.
Craig001, I missed your post to this thread but I will add you to the battery cable list. If you want a headlight wiringing harness, I have a couple left from the last build of a little over a month ago. In the future e-mail me at wraydan@msn.com so I'm sure to get your message.
dmoffitt, I'll add you to the battery cable list, but see my note to Craig re: e-mail. Yes, you can buy just the headlight wiring harness, I have a few left on hand. I'll e-mail you.
