Problems after brake change... help!
10-29-2002 | 08:49 PM
#17
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 336
Likes: 0
From: Pasadena, CA very soon to be Portland, OR
compare in what sense? Everything fit up perfectly as far as I can tell.
What I am thinking now is that it either has to do with the rotors indeed being warped or it has to do with the adhesive that goes between the damper and the pads. I know the factory manuals made reference to this, but I have not heard anyone talk about it at all.
Do any of you do anything with the dampers or the adhesive strips when you change your pads?
What I am thinking now is that it either has to do with the rotors indeed being warped or it has to do with the adhesive that goes between the damper and the pads. I know the factory manuals made reference to this, but I have not heard anyone talk about it at all.
Do any of you do anything with the dampers or the adhesive strips when you change your pads?
10-30-2002 | 04:45 AM
#18
Pro
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 617
Likes: 0
From: Portland, OR
[quote]Originally posted by rihaa:
<strong>
Do any of you do anything with the dampers or the adhesive strips when you change your pads?</strong><hr></blockquote>
If the pads come with "dampers," wipe the back of the pads with alcohol or windex and stick em on.
Or don't, if you don't mind squeal.
Proceed with brake job.
Am I missing something? <img src="confused.gif" border="0">
<strong>
Do any of you do anything with the dampers or the adhesive strips when you change your pads?</strong><hr></blockquote>
If the pads come with "dampers," wipe the back of the pads with alcohol or windex and stick em on.
Or don't, if you don't mind squeal.
Proceed with brake job.
Am I missing something? <img src="confused.gif" border="0">
10-30-2002 | 11:36 AM
#19
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 1,088
Likes: 0
From: Utica Michigan
rotor warp check, jack up. remove tire. Place a solid stand type thing that will allow access to the open part of the rotor. place a flat tipped screw driver agaist the rotor and spin it. does it push out or get an air space between tip? THat will tell you about the rotor. If you can get a dial indicator that would be better.. THat will give you the run out on your rotor.
10-30-2002 | 12:23 PM
#20
Pro
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 610
Likes: 0
From: Atlantis, FL
Hey Chris,
I didn't get any pulsing in my pedal either just a loud clunking sound as the rotor went around with pedal pressure. I realize that you don't want to accept the probability that your rotor or rotors are warped. It seems to be a fairly common problem with the "shipped directly from Germany Zimmerman cross drilled (cast in hole) rotors".
Danno,
I got mine from the now out of business "The Race Store" in Akron, Ohio. I checked their website and it is no more so I am guessing that they went out of business.
Chris,
As soon as I put on the Factory rotors from Paragon (with NO further changes) the clunking went away. With regard to the shims/anti-vibration dampers I use them. But any brake squealing is typically due to the type of compound the pads are made out of. I use Metal Masters. Very good street pad (short warm up time, good stopping, little fade (even during autoX) and they are 'rotor friendly'.
Again, I have nothing to gain here. I am just trying to save you some unnecessary aggrevation. I already went through all of the same things you are doing and I still had to change my front rotors. It was obvious that the problem was in the front.
Regards,
Max
I didn't get any pulsing in my pedal either just a loud clunking sound as the rotor went around with pedal pressure. I realize that you don't want to accept the probability that your rotor or rotors are warped. It seems to be a fairly common problem with the "shipped directly from Germany Zimmerman cross drilled (cast in hole) rotors".
Danno,
I got mine from the now out of business "The Race Store" in Akron, Ohio. I checked their website and it is no more so I am guessing that they went out of business.
Chris,
As soon as I put on the Factory rotors from Paragon (with NO further changes) the clunking went away. With regard to the shims/anti-vibration dampers I use them. But any brake squealing is typically due to the type of compound the pads are made out of. I use Metal Masters. Very good street pad (short warm up time, good stopping, little fade (even during autoX) and they are 'rotor friendly'.
Again, I have nothing to gain here. I am just trying to save you some unnecessary aggrevation. I already went through all of the same things you are doing and I still had to change my front rotors. It was obvious that the problem was in the front.
Regards,
Max
10-31-2002 | 07:58 PM
#21
Intermediate
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 33
Likes: 0
From: South Carolina
I CANT BELEIVE IT!!!!
I had the same damn problem with Vertex.
Max is absolutley right, your brand new rotors from that piece of sh$% Vertex are warped.
I bought rotors from another supplier and guess what...the awful thumping sound disappeared. I too tried the reassembled except a put an old rotor back on, one side at a time to identify if it was the new pads or the rotors. When using new pads with an old rotor on one side it went away, however the thumping continued on the other side, indicating the rotor.
Vertex is awful, I wrote them a letter describing their problem and I never heard from them.
Since the calipers are fixed a warped rotor will make this sound and you can feel it in the car.
Send them back!!
I had the same damn problem with Vertex.
Max is absolutley right, your brand new rotors from that piece of sh$% Vertex are warped.
I bought rotors from another supplier and guess what...the awful thumping sound disappeared. I too tried the reassembled except a put an old rotor back on, one side at a time to identify if it was the new pads or the rotors. When using new pads with an old rotor on one side it went away, however the thumping continued on the other side, indicating the rotor.
Vertex is awful, I wrote them a letter describing their problem and I never heard from them.
Since the calipers are fixed a warped rotor will make this sound and you can feel it in the car.
Send them back!!
11-01-2002 | 04:58 AM
#22
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 336
Likes: 0
From: Pasadena, CA very soon to be Portland, OR
Does this mean that the design is just plain flawed and I should not bother with any of the zimmerman rotors or should I send them back and get a set of the same ones that is not warped?
If possible I would like to upgrade the rotors to cross-drilled. Are there any other places that have the drilled rotors at all?
If possible I would like to upgrade the rotors to cross-drilled. Are there any other places that have the drilled rotors at all?
12-02-2002 | 04:04 AM
#23
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 336
Likes: 0
From: Pasadena, CA very soon to be Portland, OR
I think I have figured out the problem with my brakes. It has been a slow drawn out process because my car is at home and I am at school and cannot work on it whenever I feel like it.
Anyways, from what I can tell from working on the car today I believe a worn ball joint to be the problem. It allows for movement of the spindle when pushing in on the caliper. When moving this all around it made a clunking sound almost exactly like what I am hearing under heavy braking. The rotor also has marks that would seem to indicate this as well.
I will keep you all updated on the progress after I get the rebuilt A-arm and can install it in 2 weeks.
Anyways, from what I can tell from working on the car today I believe a worn ball joint to be the problem. It allows for movement of the spindle when pushing in on the caliper. When moving this all around it made a clunking sound almost exactly like what I am hearing under heavy braking. The rotor also has marks that would seem to indicate this as well.
I will keep you all updated on the progress after I get the rebuilt A-arm and can install it in 2 weeks.
