Water pump is okay!
10-03-2002, 03:15 AM
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Crofton, MD
Posts: 1,363
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Water pump is okay!
I finally got to look at my car today. I took the lower radiator hose off, and underneath the clamp was a radial crack where all of my coolant was pouring out of. I should be able to get my new hose tomorrow and get this thing back on the road.
Now all I have to do is figure out where the steering wheel vibration is coming from (only vibrates when making mild turns over 60 MPH)...could it be a tie rod? Something in the steering rack? Wheels are in perfect balance (done last week), everything else is new in the front axle besides the swaybar (obviously not related), steering knuckles, rotors and calipers, wheel bearings (no play what soever...I tightened them down ever so slightly to be sure though), tie rods (new tie rod ends though) and steering rack. The only things on that list of not new stuff that could be related are tie rods, steering rack, and wheel bearings (pretty sure that its not wheel bearings). Anybody else ever have a similar problem? Help please
.
Now all I have to do is figure out where the steering wheel vibration is coming from (only vibrates when making mild turns over 60 MPH)...could it be a tie rod? Something in the steering rack? Wheels are in perfect balance (done last week), everything else is new in the front axle besides the swaybar (obviously not related), steering knuckles, rotors and calipers, wheel bearings (no play what soever...I tightened them down ever so slightly to be sure though), tie rods (new tie rod ends though) and steering rack. The only things on that list of not new stuff that could be related are tie rods, steering rack, and wheel bearings (pretty sure that its not wheel bearings). Anybody else ever have a similar problem? Help please
.
10-03-2002, 05:03 AM
#2
Burning Brakes
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Ams, NL
Posts: 1,210
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Lucky you, Ribs
This saves a lot of work
[quote] ..and underneath the clamp was a radial crack where all.. <hr></blockquote>Was this a new hose?
If not, you might want to examin the crack a little better.
If the crack is bigger on the inside of the hose, it could be caused by acid formed in the coolant. Mainly caused by an blown head gasket or aged coolant.
You than may expect all of the older hoses to go in the near future.
If the crack is from outside in, it will probably be old age of the hose. Replacing the hoses with the same age will then be enough for now.
[quote]..vibrates when making mild turns over 60 MPH.. <hr></blockquote>Balanced the wheels on the car to compensate for the difference in weight of the lock in one of the wheel nuts?
What happened with your steel A-arms? How did the beefing up go? Any pictures (preferably detailed) available?
[quote]wheel bearings (no play what soever...I tightened them down ever so slightly to be sure though)<hr></blockquote>Make sure you didn't over tighten them, this might cause the vibration and will cause overheating of the bearing. Resulting in pitting of the inner race of the outer bearing at first and total damage at end.
Pitted races can cause the vibration described.
TakeCare
This saves a lot of work
[quote] ..and underneath the clamp was a radial crack where all.. <hr></blockquote>Was this a new hose?
If not, you might want to examin the crack a little better.
If the crack is bigger on the inside of the hose, it could be caused by acid formed in the coolant. Mainly caused by an blown head gasket or aged coolant.
You than may expect all of the older hoses to go in the near future.
If the crack is from outside in, it will probably be old age of the hose. Replacing the hoses with the same age will then be enough for now.
[quote]..vibrates when making mild turns over 60 MPH.. <hr></blockquote>Balanced the wheels on the car to compensate for the difference in weight of the lock in one of the wheel nuts?
What happened with your steel A-arms? How did the beefing up go? Any pictures (preferably detailed) available?
[quote]wheel bearings (no play what soever...I tightened them down ever so slightly to be sure though)<hr></blockquote>Make sure you didn't over tighten them, this might cause the vibration and will cause overheating of the bearing. Resulting in pitting of the inner race of the outer bearing at first and total damage at end.
Pitted races can cause the vibration described.
TakeCare
10-03-2002, 05:19 AM
#3
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Crofton, MD
Posts: 1,363
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hans, the hose was replaced about the same time as my waterpump (a year and a half ago or so) so it wasn't very old. The rip was even inside and out. Head gasket is good AFAIK (no oil in coolant, no coolant in oil) and the coolant is fresh and was flushed a few months ago.
There is no lock nut on any of my wheels (I had to drill the locks off of my fuchs because I lost the key and never put locks back on) so this wouldn't cause any difference in balance. The strange thing is that the vibration is only when the car is turning slightly above 50 or 60 MPH. Its fine when it is straight, and fine when I take tighter turns at these speeds.
I ran out of time and didn't get a chance to re-enforce the a-arms, but I will next time I have them off the car or before I do any track events/autocross...whichever comes first. They bolted up fine though and I was able to use my M030 caster blocks with them. I gave my digital camera to my dad for a while since I wasn't using it and he had a bunch of stuff he needed pictures of, so no pictures newer than when the stuff came in and was sitting on my couch.
I am pretty sure I didn't overtighten the wheel bearings. I made sure that the brake rotor spun about as freely as it did before I tightened the locknut (I probably spun each locknut 10 or 15 degrees tighter, so there is no big difference in the tightness, and everything still spins freely). I'll probably replace wheel bearings soon anyways since I believe they are original...these don't need to be machined pressed into place in the front like the rears, do they? Any idea on the steering rack being able to cause my problems?
Thanks hans,
There is no lock nut on any of my wheels (I had to drill the locks off of my fuchs because I lost the key and never put locks back on) so this wouldn't cause any difference in balance. The strange thing is that the vibration is only when the car is turning slightly above 50 or 60 MPH. Its fine when it is straight, and fine when I take tighter turns at these speeds.
I ran out of time and didn't get a chance to re-enforce the a-arms, but I will next time I have them off the car or before I do any track events/autocross...whichever comes first. They bolted up fine though and I was able to use my M030 caster blocks with them. I gave my digital camera to my dad for a while since I wasn't using it and he had a bunch of stuff he needed pictures of, so no pictures newer than when the stuff came in and was sitting on my couch.
I am pretty sure I didn't overtighten the wheel bearings. I made sure that the brake rotor spun about as freely as it did before I tightened the locknut (I probably spun each locknut 10 or 15 degrees tighter, so there is no big difference in the tightness, and everything still spins freely). I'll probably replace wheel bearings soon anyways since I believe they are original...these don't need to be machined pressed into place in the front like the rears, do they? Any idea on the steering rack being able to cause my problems?
Thanks hans,
10-17-2002, 05:29 AM
#4
Burning Brakes
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Ams, NL
Posts: 1,210
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hi Ribs, a bit late but nevertheless....
1) Hose: OK so this was a bad badge (or **** quality), replace and dont worry.
2)No lock nuts: OK, that eliminates one possibility.
Somewhere along the line I picked up the rumor of an colored stud, to be the stud for the factory lock nut.
Dont know anymore, just picked it up.
If correct, than this would imply that a compensation for the weight difference is incorporated in the hub.
Balancing while on the car might still be your solution.
The indication of the speed (50 to 60) does indicate a balance problem, ever tried swapping the tires from left to right?
I dont think it comes from the steering rack itself, there is hydraulic pressure to compensate any play in the mechanism.
The tie rods maybe, ever checked this?
3) Wheel bearings in the front wheel can be done at home, without a press. You need an hammer and an punch, although an "puller" would make the job a bit simpler.
As long as they are still good (no pitched races), these bearings do not need replacement. New ones wont be better and they can get real old.
TakeCare
1) Hose: OK so this was a bad badge (or **** quality), replace and dont worry.
2)No lock nuts: OK, that eliminates one possibility.
Somewhere along the line I picked up the rumor of an colored stud, to be the stud for the factory lock nut.
Dont know anymore, just picked it up.
If correct, than this would imply that a compensation for the weight difference is incorporated in the hub.
Balancing while on the car might still be your solution.
The indication of the speed (50 to 60) does indicate a balance problem, ever tried swapping the tires from left to right?
I dont think it comes from the steering rack itself, there is hydraulic pressure to compensate any play in the mechanism.
The tie rods maybe, ever checked this?
3) Wheel bearings in the front wheel can be done at home, without a press. You need an hammer and an punch, although an "puller" would make the job a bit simpler.
As long as they are still good (no pitched races), these bearings do not need replacement. New ones wont be better and they can get real old.
TakeCare