will 87 924 control arms fit 86 944
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will the steel control arms off an 1987 924 fit the my 1986 944 na?
ok i am very confused. I called paragon and the steel control arms are $22. I need opinions on weather to do this mod or not. Should i go with the steel arms or should i get a new alluminum one?
ok i am very confused. I called paragon and the steel control arms are $22. I need opinions on weather to do this mod or not. Should i go with the steel arms or should i get a new alluminum one?
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Yes, they will fit... but, you need more than that to convert properly:
- Control Arm (2) 171.407.153.D
- Ball Joint (2) 171.407.365.G
- Bolt (ball-joint, M7x20) (6) N.040.204.3
- Nut (ball-joint, M7) (6) N.011.007.7
- Lock Washer (ball-joint, A7) (6) N.042.011.1
- Lock Nut (spindle clamp, M10) (2) N.021.130.2
- Front Bushing (2) 171.407.182.D
- Washer (front bushing, A13) (4) N.011.531.5
- Lock Nut (front bushing, M12) (2) N.021.131.1
- Rear Bushing (2) 477.407.181.A
Also, you'll need the rear bushing clips (not available new)
- Rear Clip (2) 477.407.169
You can reuse the front and rear bolts only. Expect to pay $5-10 per clip from a dismantler or used parts source.
When installing the rear bushing, it is hammered or pressed on (pressure fit)... so you need to accurately set the loaded angle of incidence prior to installing. They can be removed by cutting, but are then unuseable. The bushing works via the flex of the rubber, not by any mechanical movement... you do not want preload on the rubber as this may cause poor handling and premature failure.
You'll also need to modify or retrofit the stabilizer bushings. The late model drop link can be used on the steel arms, but should be fortified. The early bushings and clamps can be used with all later stabilizers, though the 26.8mm and 30mm bars will require you bore the stock bushing out a bit (~21.5mm)
Parts you may need (if using the early style stabilizer ends):
- Bracket (left) (1) 944.343.735.00
- Bracket (right) (1) 944.343.736.00
- Bushing (2) 171.411.314.A
- Bolt (M8x22) (4) N.010.241.11
- Lock Nut (M8) (4) 900.910.022.09
Good Luck!
- Control Arm (2) 171.407.153.D
- Ball Joint (2) 171.407.365.G
- Bolt (ball-joint, M7x20) (6) N.040.204.3
- Nut (ball-joint, M7) (6) N.011.007.7
- Lock Washer (ball-joint, A7) (6) N.042.011.1
- Lock Nut (spindle clamp, M10) (2) N.021.130.2
- Front Bushing (2) 171.407.182.D
- Washer (front bushing, A13) (4) N.011.531.5
- Lock Nut (front bushing, M12) (2) N.021.131.1
- Rear Bushing (2) 477.407.181.A
Also, you'll need the rear bushing clips (not available new)
- Rear Clip (2) 477.407.169
You can reuse the front and rear bolts only. Expect to pay $5-10 per clip from a dismantler or used parts source.
When installing the rear bushing, it is hammered or pressed on (pressure fit)... so you need to accurately set the loaded angle of incidence prior to installing. They can be removed by cutting, but are then unuseable. The bushing works via the flex of the rubber, not by any mechanical movement... you do not want preload on the rubber as this may cause poor handling and premature failure.
You'll also need to modify or retrofit the stabilizer bushings. The late model drop link can be used on the steel arms, but should be fortified. The early bushings and clamps can be used with all later stabilizers, though the 26.8mm and 30mm bars will require you bore the stock bushing out a bit (~21.5mm)
Parts you may need (if using the early style stabilizer ends):
- Bracket (left) (1) 944.343.735.00
- Bracket (right) (1) 944.343.736.00
- Bushing (2) 171.411.314.A
- Bolt (M8x22) (4) N.010.241.11
- Lock Nut (M8) (4) 900.910.022.09
Good Luck!