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cooling system -> update (solved !!! )

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Old Sep 25, 2010 | 01:37 PM
  #16  
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Roman and I both have Series 1 cars, which is why I referred to 80 first line, 89 second line, etc. In you sig there is no info on your car. Sorry... I use the diagrams above as reference and I know the differences from early to late cars, including the actual functionning of said cooling systems, lol... As far as the as a community, well I think it is more important to know which series car we are dealing with from the start. Too many 85.5+ owners go on about early cooling systems when they actually don't know. Just my .02 cents...
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Old Sep 25, 2010 | 03:15 PM
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Originally Posted by smokin_944
Roman and I both have Series 1 cars, which is why I referred to 80 first line, 89 second line, etc. In you sig there is no info on your car. Sorry... I use the diagrams above as reference and I know the differences from early to late cars, including the actual functionning of said cooling systems, lol... As far as the as a community, well I think it is more important to know which series car we are dealing with from the start. Too many 85.5+ owners go on about early cooling systems when they actually don't know. Just my .02 cents...
i have a 924s (series 1) so i am the same as you guys. it just bothers me when people do not refer to an actual temp. i always look at peoples car info too.

sorry, i dont have mine up there... i thought it did...


anyway, do you have any recommendations for my cooling system? today its 16 degrees, raining, and she ran about 97 degrees according to the gauge. i think its a little off due to the headlights, wipers, and blower motor all running...
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Old Sep 25, 2010 | 05:10 PM
  #18  
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Do you know which thermalfan switch you are using? And which Tstat? The reason I ask is because the 2 have to work together to give you the right results. Today, by coincidence it is 16 degrees in Winnipeg, sunny... I drove for over an hour and left the car idling for mebbe 10 minutes and all I got for temp is 80 degrees on the gauge, which I know to be accurate because I checked with an infrared gun. I am using a low temp stat (71 degrees) and a low temp thermal switch (65/60) no. 823.959.481 E. On occasion, (a very hot day) I see 89 degrees or so but because everything works according to spec, I don't worry about it. I lose no coolant ergo no problem.
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Old Sep 25, 2010 | 05:40 PM
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i can only assume my equipment is stock.

like i said, i am quite sure the gauge reads quite high with accessories on. my guess is it was running closer to 85 degrees (from previous experience)

ambient temp really seems to have no real effect on the engine temp and i never loose coolant.
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Old Sep 25, 2010 | 06:33 PM
  #20  
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yep, this is for early cars, wow, how did I not put that up in the topic ...

if your fans work like they should and your cooling system is bled properly, you could try and tinker with this other stuff (thermo fan switch and thermostat)

on my car, I don't know what was done when - so I replaced all the hoses, cooling tank, waterpump, thermostat and fan switch - now, a few days after finishing the low-temp swap - car operates as it should

still running at the low mark, heats up to half-way, then cools back down to the 1st mark

I checked the level of coolant - and it's where it was when I filled it last time, going to check it again tomorrow
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Old Sep 26, 2010 | 11:27 AM
  #21  
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Roman, you finally dialed the car in. Congrats!! That's what I'm talkin about...
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Old Sep 26, 2010 | 11:34 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by thirdgenbird
i can only assume my equipment is stock.

like i said, i am quite sure the gauge reads quite high with accessories on. my guess is it was running closer to 85 degrees (from previous experience)

ambient temp really seems to have no real effect on the engine temp and i never loose coolant.
Thirdgen, the stock stuff was fairly high temp, from the switches to the tStats according to my tech manual. You definitely have to scope out what parts you have and take it from there. An 80 degree Tstat and an 82/77 thermal fan switch would probably do wonders for the cooling. But just for the heck of it, find out if your temp gauge is accurate. This would be a good starting point. A hint, on your early car, the temp sender is a single connection brass fitting found under the intake manifold. Take a good look at it. The insulator could be cooked or partially cooked and chances are it is green not brass colored. Change it. I think they are about 10-15 dollars. Get back to me.
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Old Sep 26, 2010 | 02:31 PM
  #23  
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hm, I checked coolant today and it was low ... maybe mixing antifreeze and distilled water was a bad idea? seems like I need to add a little bit every couple of days now, going to double check all the connections on the hoses again

I think I might have to bleed it one more time, today the arrow was bouncy and at a stop headed to the 3rd bar - though never reaching it - and once I started driving again - lowered back to between first and half
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Old Sep 26, 2010 | 02:34 PM
  #24  
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Where should I point my temp gun for an accurate temp reading?
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Old Sep 27, 2010 | 03:38 PM
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Once the Tstat opens, I point the temp gun at the bottom hose 1st, then the top hose. Once the coolant is circulating through the system the temp from the 2 points should be close...
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Old Sep 27, 2010 | 05:43 PM
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I will do that tonight
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Old Sep 27, 2010 | 06:16 PM
  #27  
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mine is doing well, I think I still need to try and bleed it though, probably got some more air in
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Old Sep 27, 2010 | 07:10 PM
  #28  
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Head gasket? Bleeding should not be this hard.
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Old Sep 27, 2010 | 07:36 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Jfrahm
Head gasket? Bleeding should not be this hard.
nope
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Old Sep 27, 2010 | 07:59 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by smokin_944
Once the Tstat opens, I point the temp gun at the bottom hose 1st, then the top hose. Once the coolant is circulating through the system the temp from the 2 points should be close...
wait, shouldnt the two points be different? that is, if the radiator is doing its job?

do you check on the hose itself or the WP and water port on the head? if i take a reading on my hoses i am only running 78 degrees or so. the metal parts are like 84-88 degrees.

is it normal to get pressure in the tank? so much so that it overflows quite a bit if i take the cap off. (i am running distilled water only currently) under normal situations i dont seem to loose any water.

roman, if you want me to start my own thread let me know. (my thought was keeping it together so future searchers had all the info on early cooling in one place)
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