exhaust studs
#1
Burning Brakes
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I am working on removing my exhaust header and studs to try to track down a leak. I have heard that I should replace the studs. From what I have found the studs are M8*30 and the nuts are M8. Can I just use this info to go to a hardware store to get these or do I have to go to the dealership to get the correct parts?
Bryan
86 951
Bryan
86 951
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Actually you need to measure the length of both threads on the studs and the total length of the stud. The hardness is also a factor. Off hand I am not sure of the exhaust studs but I would assume at least 8.8 or 10.9. As for the nuts, take a closer look at the nuts you pulled off. You will notice that they seem to have a slit near the top. Again, I don't remember the name of this type of nut but it resists the nuts from coming off of the studs through heat and vibration.
-R.B.
-R.B.
#3
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call one of the many Vendors on the board:
<a href="http://www.lindseyracing.com" target="_blank">www.lindseyracing.com</a>
<a href="http://www.speedforceracing.com" target="_blank">www.speedforceracing.com</a>
<a href="http://www.visionmotorsports.com" target="_blank">www.visionmotorsports.com</a>
<a href="http://www.huntleyracing.com" target="_blank">www.huntleyracing.com</a>
any of these should have OEM stuff, mine came from Lindsey.
<a href="http://www.lindseyracing.com" target="_blank">www.lindseyracing.com</a>
<a href="http://www.speedforceracing.com" target="_blank">www.speedforceracing.com</a>
<a href="http://www.visionmotorsports.com" target="_blank">www.visionmotorsports.com</a>
<a href="http://www.huntleyracing.com" target="_blank">www.huntleyracing.com</a>
any of these should have OEM stuff, mine came from Lindsey.
#5
Three Wheelin'
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Bryan:
I have a few spare studs at home. You can come buy and take a look. They are an M8 8.8 grade fastener. Let me know. I may be installing my engine this weekend, if I do not have to work. I have been swamped lately.
I have a few spare studs at home. You can come buy and take a look. They are an M8 8.8 grade fastener. Let me know. I may be installing my engine this weekend, if I do not have to work. I have been swamped lately.
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I have a big question on this matter. Are the studs supposed to be changed on the headder or not. second question what too should be used and what is the correct extraction method to prvent stripping or breakign to stud??? I wish to buy a tool that will allow me to remove both these and the head studs as well. I have been told that the one that clamps onto the threads is the best but do not know where to find it.
Thanks in advance.
TaboII
Thanks in advance.
TaboII
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Keith:
I was just wondering the other day about whether you ever got the car back together. For some reason I was thinking that you sold it.
If I can ever find time between jobs, I'll get in touch with you and take a look at those studs. Hopefully it will be soon. I'm going into withdrawls from not getting to drive the Porsche. If you need any help with the engine let me know. The more that I can learn the better.
Bryan
86 951
I was just wondering the other day about whether you ever got the car back together. For some reason I was thinking that you sold it.
If I can ever find time between jobs, I'll get in touch with you and take a look at those studs. Hopefully it will be soon. I'm going into withdrawls from not getting to drive the Porsche. If you need any help with the engine let me know. The more that I can learn the better.
Bryan
86 951
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#8
Three Wheelin'
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Bryan:
Sometimes I wish I had sold it, but I am in toooo deep to sell now. Besides, I still vaguely remember loving to drive it.
I hope to install it this weekend. Lots to do before then. You are welcome to drop by. I have misplaced your phone number. My work # is 944-0735.
Tabo:
You can find a "stud extractor" at an auto parts store. Call around first. They will ruin the studs typically. Soak the studs with liquid wrench or some such concoction at least overnight before attempting to remove them. Go slow, and twist it in and out. I mean alternate ccw 1/8 turn, cw 1/8 turn or so until they turn easily. I would not fool with removal unless they are stripped, broken, or backing out. They can be a pain.
Sometimes I wish I had sold it, but I am in toooo deep to sell now. Besides, I still vaguely remember loving to drive it.
I hope to install it this weekend. Lots to do before then. You are welcome to drop by. I have misplaced your phone number. My work # is 944-0735.
Tabo:
You can find a "stud extractor" at an auto parts store. Call around first. They will ruin the studs typically. Soak the studs with liquid wrench or some such concoction at least overnight before attempting to remove them. Go slow, and twist it in and out. I mean alternate ccw 1/8 turn, cw 1/8 turn or so until they turn easily. I would not fool with removal unless they are stripped, broken, or backing out. They can be a pain.
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Original studs are 8.8 steel
Original nuts are coated (copper?)lock nuts
You can get the both from your frendly local VW dealer.They are also used in Golf / Passat / ....
[quote]Danno: anyone used stainless studs? <hr></blockquote>I did, made it a habbit of replacing the steel nuts with stainless (with spring washer for locking) when the old studs were still ok and replaced the studs with stainless A2 quality used with either the original nots or stainless nuts with spring washer when these needed replacement.
Applied anti seize compound to the part sticking out the head only.
Worked perfect for years without any further hassle on over_powered_air_cooled beetles / tuned Golfs & Sciroccos.
Will do this to my 951 when the headers need replacement (scheduled for this winter, still original model 1986, not updated, cracked and welded more than often)
Cant think of any reason why it wouldnt work on an 951 since the heat in there cant be worse than in the ancient beetles I drove / owned
TakeCare
Original nuts are coated (copper?)lock nuts
You can get the both from your frendly local VW dealer.They are also used in Golf / Passat / ....
[quote]Danno: anyone used stainless studs? <hr></blockquote>I did, made it a habbit of replacing the steel nuts with stainless (with spring washer for locking) when the old studs were still ok and replaced the studs with stainless A2 quality used with either the original nots or stainless nuts with spring washer when these needed replacement.
Applied anti seize compound to the part sticking out the head only.
Worked perfect for years without any further hassle on over_powered_air_cooled beetles / tuned Golfs & Sciroccos.
Will do this to my 951 when the headers need replacement (scheduled for this winter, still original model 1986, not updated, cracked and welded more than often)
Cant think of any reason why it wouldnt work on an 951 since the heat in there cant be worse than in the ancient beetles I drove / owned
TakeCare