brake pad hints?
10-01-2002, 08:55 AM
#1
Burning Brakes
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brake pad hints?
I'm replacing the pads all the way around using the procedure I found here at Rennlist.
Are there any horror stories or common complications I should know about?
Thanks
Are there any horror stories or common complications I should know about?
Thanks
10-01-2002, 10:38 AM
#2
Drifting
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On my car the "sticks" that hold the pads in place were a bit rusted and hard to get loose... but by no means impossible - having something big around to hit them with helped!
Make sure you remove enough brake fluid from the reservoir, and maybe even have someone watch that over when you're pushing the pistons in! I took too little out and ended up having a flood
It was really easy, the first caliper took some figuring out but after that the rest were a snap. Good luck!
Make sure you remove enough brake fluid from the reservoir, and maybe even have someone watch that over when you're pushing the pistons in! I took too little out and ended up having a flood
It was really easy, the first caliper took some figuring out but after that the rest were a snap. Good luck!
10-01-2002, 10:52 AM
#3
Got Nothin'
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For me, the rears went really easy, but the fronts were a bit more difficult. I ended up removing the calipers and setting the pads, then istalling calipers/pads at the same time.
Just my little horror story.
Just my little horror story.
10-01-2002, 11:09 AM
#4
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I was under the impression that pushing the pistons in the caliper back without opening the bleeder is a recipe for blowing your master cylinder.
I seem to recall some listers having done this. It is something to research anyway.
I seem to recall some listers having done this. It is something to research anyway.
10-01-2002, 12:37 PM
#5
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They're easy to change if all parts are free and working correctly. I've never removed fluid from the reservoir and have never had the flood, even with very thick new pads replacing very old worn pads all the way around.
I press the piston back in using the old pad as a lever and careful not to pinch the rubber boot. Pads drop right in, hardware goes back on, life is good. Double and triple check that all hardware is back in place before you mount/torque the wheels. It's easy to forget a little cotter pin.
Keep the shiny side up,
I press the piston back in using the old pad as a lever and careful not to pinch the rubber boot. Pads drop right in, hardware goes back on, life is good. Double and triple check that all hardware is back in place before you mount/torque the wheels. It's easy to forget a little cotter pin.
Keep the shiny side up,
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10-01-2002, 04:39 PM
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[quote]Originally posted by Perry 951:
<strong>Guess that explains the mood swings... huh Skip?<hr></blockquote></strong>
WHAT!?! I'M NOT MOODY!!! WHAT THE HECK ARE YOU TALKING ABOUT!!! I'M RIGHT - YOU'RE WRONG!!! WHO THE HELL PUT THIS TOILET SEAT DOWN!?! GRRRRR!!!
[quote]<strong>Metalmasters on my car BTW.</strong><hr></blockquote>
Me too! Switching to KFP Carbon-Kevlar next season. Metal masters and race tires on track days are not enough - otherwise, they are perfect (and cheap).
Skip
<strong>Guess that explains the mood swings... huh Skip?<hr></blockquote></strong>
WHAT!?! I'M NOT MOODY!!! WHAT THE HECK ARE YOU TALKING ABOUT!!! I'M RIGHT - YOU'RE WRONG!!! WHO THE HELL PUT THIS TOILET SEAT DOWN!?! GRRRRR!!!
[quote]<strong>Metalmasters on my car BTW.</strong><hr></blockquote>
Me too! Switching to KFP Carbon-Kevlar next season. Metal masters and race tires on track days are not enough - otherwise, they are perfect (and cheap).
Skip
10-01-2002, 04:54 PM
#10
Burning Brakes
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hehehehehehe, man that is freakin funny. <img src="graemlins/roflmao.gif" border="0" alt="[hiha]" /> <img src="graemlins/roflmao.gif" border="0" alt="[hiha]" />
10-01-2002, 05:24 PM
#11
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[quote]Originally posted by Skip:
<strong>Me too! Switching to KFP Carbon-Kevlar next season. Metal masters and race tires on track days are not enough - otherwise, they are perfect (and cheap).</strong><hr></blockquote>
Hey Skip, I've been using the KFP Carbon-Kevlar pads on the street for quite a while. At first, I couldn't stand the noise and dust, and actually put some metalmasters in. I wasn't too happy with the performance of those, so I ended up putting the KFP pads back in. The noise and dust no longer bug me. Now, when I am sitting in traffic, I actually try to maximize the squeal as much as possible, just for kicks.
I guess being able to fade the metalmasters (with fresh Motul 600) on twisty backroads means that I am going too fast!
<strong>Me too! Switching to KFP Carbon-Kevlar next season. Metal masters and race tires on track days are not enough - otherwise, they are perfect (and cheap).</strong><hr></blockquote>
Hey Skip, I've been using the KFP Carbon-Kevlar pads on the street for quite a while. At first, I couldn't stand the noise and dust, and actually put some metalmasters in. I wasn't too happy with the performance of those, so I ended up putting the KFP pads back in. The noise and dust no longer bug me. Now, when I am sitting in traffic, I actually try to maximize the squeal as much as possible, just for kicks.
I guess being able to fade the metalmasters (with fresh Motul 600) on twisty backroads means that I am going too fast!
10-02-2002, 12:53 PM
#12
Race Director
[quote]Originally posted by Skip:
<strong>
Me too! Switching to KFP Carbon-Kevlar next season. Metal masters and race tires on track days are not enough - otherwise, they are perfect (and cheap).
Skip</strong><hr></blockquote>
Skip... The Metal masters on my race car work fine! Not a bit of fade all day long at the track.
Of course the 3" diameter cooling ducts that I rigged through the fog light holes might be helping a bit
<strong>
Me too! Switching to KFP Carbon-Kevlar next season. Metal masters and race tires on track days are not enough - otherwise, they are perfect (and cheap).
Skip</strong><hr></blockquote>
Skip... The Metal masters on my race car work fine! Not a bit of fade all day long at the track.
Of course the 3" diameter cooling ducts that I rigged through the fog light holes might be helping a bit
10-02-2002, 01:22 PM
#13
Race Director
[quote]Originally posted by Skip:
<strong>The ones with wings</strong><hr></blockquote>
Call me slow, but I just got that! LOL!!!!
Wings rock! (At least that's what my wife says...)
Oh, I use KFP's too: #345-P42A's. Are they the Carbon-Kevlar ones? They squeek like a banshee (without wings! ) and brake dust is something I've learned to live with!
-Z.
<strong>The ones with wings</strong><hr></blockquote>
Call me slow, but I just got that! LOL!!!!
Wings rock! (At least that's what my wife says...)
Oh, I use KFP's too: #345-P42A's. Are they the Carbon-Kevlar ones? They squeek like a banshee (without wings!
) and brake dust is something I've learned to live with!-Z.
10-02-2002, 03:54 PM
#14
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[quote]Originally posted by M758:
<strong>
Skip... The Metal masters on my race car work fine! Not a bit of fade all day long at the track.
Of course the 3" diameter cooling ducts that I rigged through the fog light holes might be helping a bit </strong><hr></blockquote>
You're not driving hard enough
Actually, they held up fine if I was aware of the amount of fade - it's not that they went away - just got a little light at times... and, I do not have the ducts yet (winter project) - that should help a bit. Also, we have two heavy braking zones back to back with little time in-between for cooling. One is slight downhill 130-70, the next is heavy downhill 110-40. The fade doesn't bother me as much as the friction - I want to slow very fast... as fast as I can and still have eyeballs. The KFP will help that cause out greatly. MM's are great for track days on street tires *for me*, but I can't see them handling my abuse at the track for too long.
S
<strong>
Skip... The Metal masters on my race car work fine! Not a bit of fade all day long at the track.
Of course the 3" diameter cooling ducts that I rigged through the fog light holes might be helping a bit
</strong><hr></blockquote>You're not driving hard enough
Actually, they held up fine if I was aware of the amount of fade - it's not that they went away - just got a little light at times... and, I do not have the ducts yet (winter project) - that should help a bit. Also, we have two heavy braking zones back to back with little time in-between for cooling. One is slight downhill 130-70, the next is heavy downhill 110-40. The fade doesn't bother me as much as the friction - I want to slow very fast... as fast as I can and still have eyeballs. The KFP will help that cause out greatly. MM's are great for track days on street tires *for me*, but I can't see them handling my abuse at the track for too long.
S
10-02-2002, 04:30 PM
#15
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Skip,
I really recommend cooling ducts.... BIG TIME!
When I first put my 84 together I just used some stock genereric pads that came from my 87 924S parts car. Not sure of what type they were. After abour 6 months of Autocross I went out to the firebird raceway east track (1.1 mile road course) for a PCA DE and did fine. Was running Victoracers in a lighten car (est 2450 lbs).
I went out there again a few weeks later and things changed. In 2 20 minute sessions I warped the rotors very badly and ate throught 1/2 of the front pads (only had 1/4 left). I did not have spare pads and went home. After that I went with drilled rotors in the front and cooling ducts. I bought a set of used metal masters and the car was fine. I have run at the track many time since with NO brake problems at all Hardly any rotor wear, an little pad wear. Brakes are great except for the fact they they get heat soaked in between run groups. A couple pumps and they are fine on track.
In the 944 spec race a number of guys were also complaining about brake fade and I recommened that they all get cooling ducts.
This track is kind of odd since it is pretty tough on brakes inspite of a low speed (I do even hit 100 mph)layout. I think it is because there are 3 HARD braking zones and 2 medium braking zones in short 1.1 mile distance. This never gives time for brakes to cool. Most people have more problems here than at Phoenix International's (PIR) 1.5 mile road course since it only has 2 HARD braking zone and 2 medium braking corners.
Funnying thing about braking in my 944 NA.... I really don't want to stop that fast. I have found that the car will stop far sooner than I need it too for most corners. I actully try not to "overbrake" and slow the car too much for each corner. Of course the nice thing about driving like this is that it is very easy to take the corner much deeper by simple standing on it if you need to pass. Sure you lose all kinds of corner exit speed, but then again you are ahead and the guy behind you can but going much faster since he is behind.
I will stay with the metal masters till they wear out at the end of the racing season. Probably think about KPF then.
I really recommend cooling ducts.... BIG TIME!
When I first put my 84 together I just used some stock genereric pads that came from my 87 924S parts car. Not sure of what type they were. After abour 6 months of Autocross I went out to the firebird raceway east track (1.1 mile road course) for a PCA DE and did fine. Was running Victoracers in a lighten car (est 2450 lbs).
I went out there again a few weeks later and things changed. In 2 20 minute sessions I warped the rotors very badly and ate throught 1/2 of the front pads (only had 1/4 left). I did not have spare pads and went home. After that I went with drilled rotors in the front and cooling ducts. I bought a set of used metal masters and the car was fine. I have run at the track many time since with NO brake problems at all Hardly any rotor wear, an little pad wear. Brakes are great except for the fact they they get heat soaked in between run groups. A couple pumps and they are fine on track.
In the 944 spec race a number of guys were also complaining about brake fade and I recommened that they all get cooling ducts.
This track is kind of odd since it is pretty tough on brakes inspite of a low speed (I do even hit 100 mph)layout. I think it is because there are 3 HARD braking zones and 2 medium braking zones in short 1.1 mile distance. This never gives time for brakes to cool. Most people have more problems here than at Phoenix International's (PIR) 1.5 mile road course since it only has 2 HARD braking zone and 2 medium braking corners.
Funnying thing about braking in my 944 NA.... I really don't want to stop that fast. I have found that the car will stop far sooner than I need it too for most corners. I actully try not to "overbrake" and slow the car too much for each corner. Of course the nice thing about driving like this is that it is very easy to take the corner much deeper by simple standing on it if you need to pass. Sure you lose all kinds of corner exit speed, but then again you are ahead and the guy behind you can but going much faster since he is behind.
I will stay with the metal masters till they wear out at the end of the racing season. Probably think about KPF then.