Questions about top end rebuild process
#1
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I am in the process of putting my car back together after a timing belt breakage and had some questions.
I am needing some bolts, one for the head that goes here
![](http://www.swt.edu/~cs1022/keith/head2/headbolt.jpg)
and the one that attaches the cam housing to the head
![](http://www.swt.edu/~cs1022/keith/head2/cambolt.jpg)
Also, I bought a head gasket set and I got a few seals that I was not sure of. (the 2 rings, the other brown ring, and the little white ring)
![](http://www.swt.edu/~cs1022/keith/head2/rings.jpg)
I was also wondering where the bet place would be to get the cranshaft lock. I saw one at Pelican Parts, but it was like 45 or 50 dollars. Anyplace cheaper?
Thanks
I am needing some bolts, one for the head that goes here
![](http://www.swt.edu/~cs1022/keith/head2/headbolt.jpg)
and the one that attaches the cam housing to the head
![](http://www.swt.edu/~cs1022/keith/head2/cambolt.jpg)
Also, I bought a head gasket set and I got a few seals that I was not sure of. (the 2 rings, the other brown ring, and the little white ring)
![](http://www.swt.edu/~cs1022/keith/head2/rings.jpg)
I was also wondering where the bet place would be to get the cranshaft lock. I saw one at Pelican Parts, but it was like 45 or 50 dollars. Anyplace cheaper?
Thanks
#2
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The allen cap bolts in the head are M8x1.25. I got some grade 10.9 replacements at a home-improvement store. The cam tower bolts with integral washers (called SEMS, for trivia buffs) are probably a dealer part.
The red o-ring goes between the throttle body and the intake manifold. The brown seal and black o-ring I'm pretty sure are for the camshaft. I still haven't figured out where the little white seal is supposed to go.
According to the Haynes manual, you can jam the ring gear with a screwdriver or punch. If you're only going to do it once, why spend the fifty bucks?
The red o-ring goes between the throttle body and the intake manifold. The brown seal and black o-ring I'm pretty sure are for the camshaft. I still haven't figured out where the little white seal is supposed to go.
According to the Haynes manual, you can jam the ring gear with a screwdriver or punch. If you're only going to do it once, why spend the fifty bucks?
#3
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Most hardware stores will have allen head bolts. Take one in with you to be sure it is correct. Grade 8.8 is as low as you want. I went with all new 12.9 stuff on mine. If you cannot get the ones with intigral washers, get washers that are as close to the stock size and use that bolt/washer combo on the ouside of the housing, and the goos stock ones on the inside. For the ones on the head, same thing. One is longer than the other. I can look up the exact lengths later this evening if you need them.
Thee red O ring is for the Tbody as mentioned. If you got a cam seal kit, the black O ring is for the distributor housing that connects to the cam tower, the brown seal is the cam seal, the white one is a grommet that goes between the cam tower and the distribtor housing (revised part, use the old one, it is brown with a nipple). Looks like all that is left is the intake gaskets. You should have a thin clear mylar seal as well. That goes between the camshaft and the bushing. Find it, or it will leak.
Good luck!
Thee red O ring is for the Tbody as mentioned. If you got a cam seal kit, the black O ring is for the distributor housing that connects to the cam tower, the brown seal is the cam seal, the white one is a grommet that goes between the cam tower and the distribtor housing (revised part, use the old one, it is brown with a nipple). Looks like all that is left is the intake gaskets. You should have a thin clear mylar seal as well. That goes between the camshaft and the bushing. Find it, or it will leak.
Good luck!
#4
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[quote]Originally posted by afx:
<strong>
and the one that attaches the cam housing to the head
![](http://www.swt.edu/~cs1022/keith/head2/cambolt.jpg)
</strong><hr></blockquote>
Those are PN 900.067.214.02, "Bolt 8x35mm". HTH!
<strong>
and the one that attaches the cam housing to the head
![](http://www.swt.edu/~cs1022/keith/head2/cambolt.jpg)
</strong><hr></blockquote>
Those are PN 900.067.214.02, "Bolt 8x35mm". HTH!
#6
Race Director
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A good source for metric nuts & bolts is your local Toyota dealer. You won't be able to get anything lower than 8.8 and they have a wide selection of bolts & washers with built-in washers. I've replaced all my belly-pan and timing-belt cover bolts with ones that have built-in washers. Saves a TON of time getting things back together because I can just stick the bolt in a deep socket and just aim it in the general direction. Then push on the socket to line up with the hole and spin it in. Simple!
With the old separate bolts & washers, you would have to start the bolt by hand and be real steady or else the washer would slip off. And the belly pans were a pain because the bolts would fall into the socket! grrrhh...
I'm checking out Honda next, they seem to have a lot of stuff in 10.9 that's nitrided as well...
With the old separate bolts & washers, you would have to start the bolt by hand and be real steady or else the washer would slip off. And the belly pans were a pain because the bolts would fall into the socket! grrrhh...
![Mad](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/mad.gif)
I'm checking out Honda next, they seem to have a lot of stuff in 10.9 that's nitrided as well...