Mike C.

The problem is you can't really get to the bond and properly prepare it unless you remove the glass from the frame. Keep in mind that the glass is a stressed member- this is why they eventually separate in the first place. You can certainly spread something over the joint to stop the leak (at least temporarily) but this won't stop the separated bond area from growing larger as the hatch is used.

86 951 Driver

I am doing just the top part because first of all its really annoying to drive around(daily driver), and I think it will stop my problems. I'm going to follow the pelican parts fix and see how long that lasts. If it only last 6 months thats fine. it will be warm then.

User 52121

Got a link for this "Pelican Parts" fix?

86 951 Driver

http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...ss_repair2.htm

86 951 Driver

From my research it appears that the 3M 5200 Sealant is flexible and strong holding. 3M Window Weld is not flexible at all. It hardens. So there for it would make a more solid bond. I'm curious if I was doing the pelican parts fix would the 5200 hold the frame in place or not?

86 951 Driver

I just got done with doing this. I got urethane all over the place. Too bad. It was horrible I have 3 clamps on the frame as well as two ratcheting straps. I hope I can get the excess of urethane off the rear window otherwise it will look like crap. I just hope this all holds up. I may need to replace my rear hatch seal as it looks pretty flat and dead.

I didn't use all that much window weld. If you are just doing the top try and order the smaller tube. I feel like its all going to go to waste as I have no clue on how to store it. Any ideas would be helpful. I'm going to let it sit for 2 days make sure it has a good cure time.

ThirdPedal

951 driver, you'll be able to take a razor blade to the urethane on the glass to clean it up. Just let it cure all the way first.

On another note, I'm looking for some advice. I resealed the top with window weld, held the frame together with ratchet straps while it cured, put the hatch back on the car and it stayed for two weeks. I went out to the car this morning, and the glass is completely separated in the exact same area as before. Will 5200 fix it (if so, can you find black locally)? It seems as though my frame is bent, putting undue stress on the adhesive, but I have no idea how to straighten the frame. I'm really not sure how to fix it. It almost seems as though pumping it full of sealant and letting it cure while the hatch is connected to the struts and open (the most stressed state?) would be the way to go.

86 951 Driver

You can get 5200 at some boat stores. Problem with getting it in black is that is not the fast cure formula. It takes like 24-48 hours to become tack free and needs a solid week to cure. The fast cure is only avaliable in white. Thats why I went with window weld.

I believe me and you might have the same problem. My hatch frame looked to be bent. I have clamps and rachet straps hold it in place right now. I'm not going to let that stuff go for at least another day. On sunday I hope to put it all back together.

How long did you let your hatch cure for? Was it a constant temp?

ThirdPedal

I let my hatch cure for 48 hours with the frame pulled back in-line with the glass using ratchet straps. I actually had it inside my house, so temperance was a solid 70 degrees the entire 48 hours. I installe it on the car, but left the struts off for another 72 hours. It lasted a week and a half installed on the car (with struts attached), almost to the day. Now I'm back to square one. When you think about it, window weld is designed for use in windshileds where there is very little if any outward (pulling) forces. Since my frame is bent right at the hinge, there is a constant pulling force on the adhesive at that spot, which it isn't designed to withold.

The problem is, unlike in the Pelican procedure (which I referenced when doing mine), my frame is bent outward (toward the front of the car away from the glass) not inward (inside the car away from the glass). This makes it virtually impossible to straighten. I was hoping the adhesive would do it, but no dice.

It's unfortunate to hear about 5200 black only being slow cure. I can't be winthout my car for that long. As i mentioned above, i think my next step will be to seal the hatch in it's most stressed state. I'll keep the hatch installed, remove the window weld that failed, and let it cure in the most stressed state. I've just about given up on straightening the frame, I just don't want it to leak.

I'd be curious if anyone else has had good results straightening the frame with adhesive.

arthropraxis

Has anyone tried to heat the frame with it off the window to straighten it?

86 951 Driver

I haven't I'm hoping what I need will help create a better seal and not split so soon. I think that an epoxy might better for what your doing. Something that keeps stuff structurally sound. Like JB Weld.

BoostBuggy

I helped Cole with his and then we did mine (86 951) in a similar manner. Neither held.

I finally told it to Safelite for the pros to deal with it. Found a guy that has been doing auto glass for > 30 years and he remembered this hatch issue from way back. Apparently the issue is the primer (black band around the perimeter of glass). The primer from the day is UV senstive and breaks down over time. The primer on the top of the hatch gets way more uv than the primer on other parts of the glass i.e. the bottom which is covered by the bat wing. The only way to do it right is to remove the hatch from the car and disassemble it entirely. This took Safelite a FULL 8 HR DAY to complete! The glass was never meant to be separated from the hatch frame once it was adherred together, so the perimeter areas where the primer had not broken down were a SERIOUS bitch to get apart (without breaking the glass) I watched this guy work exceedingly slowly and carefully with speical tools and square "glass removal" wire to get all apart. I never would have had the patience for this!

Once all was separated, he used a special chemical to remove all the old primer. Then he applied new primer, which is no longer UV sensitve and should outlast me and/or the car. After allowing the primer to dry in at room temp for another day, then he re-assembled all. It was remounted to the car however NOT re-attaching the lifts. I was told to let it cure for 2-3 days minimum and preferrably as long as I could wait before re-attaching the lifts.

It's been great and solid since the repair. And this Safelite office said they would never touch one of these damn things again! They did all this work for $200. And literally had two full work days into it. I think I did ok on this deal.

86 951 Driver

Just wanted to say my hatch is still sealed at the top. I used clamps to hold down the glass on the frame as well as rafter straps to pull the frame together. This combo worked

Mike C.

Wow I'd like to find a pro who would do that for $200... I think you lucked out autokurl. Where are you located? Maybe the guy would do one more? I'm convinced removing the glass is the only way to prep the surfaces for a lasting repair. Was the frame in good shape? I hear they can be bent and need straightening in some cases (up near the top).

86 951 Driver

There is a guy in KC who will reseal the hatch. But apparently you have to take it all apart for him to do it.

The proper way to make a good solid repair is to take it all apart, clean the frame and glass really good. Use the 3m primer on the frame and glass etch acid on the glass. Put the frame back on the car then apply the 3m window weld. Place the glass on the frame. This should make the proper seal that you need. Reason that this works so well is because not all cars are straight so making the frame perfect is not the solution. You need to have the frame be in its natural state then have the glass bond to it. Doesn't make much sense, but the guys in KC who have done this never have any noise.