brakes
#1
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I always hear about how the 944 brakes are so awesome and that theyll stop on a dime. How come mine arent like that??
I think i need to bleed them because i havent done that. Also i havent changed my back brakes and they are getting close to being worn out but not quite. So what do you think the main culprit is. Also, are the rear brakes the same as the fronts?
By the way i forgot the mention that i just changed the front brakes. I ordered PAGIDs from paragon....
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By the way i forgot the mention that i just changed the front brakes. I ordered PAGIDs from paragon....
#2
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You might want to think about changing the fluid instead of just bleeding the system. Also, inspect the flexible brake hoses – if they are getting worn then they may be expanding as you apply pressure to the system.
When I change pads I like to open the bleeders so that when I retract the pistons into the calipers the brake fluid that was in the caliper area is expelled from the system.
Bleed from the farthest brake from the reservoir to the nearest. I always use a different colored fluid when I flush the system so that I know when the old is out and the new is in (ATE Gold or Blue)
My brakes are different than yours, so I do not know about the pads.
When I change pads I like to open the bleeders so that when I retract the pistons into the calipers the brake fluid that was in the caliper area is expelled from the system.
Bleed from the farthest brake from the reservoir to the nearest. I always use a different colored fluid when I flush the system so that I know when the old is out and the new is in (ATE Gold or Blue)
My brakes are different than yours, so I do not know about the pads.
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I agree with Michael. Change out the fluid, and do the rear pads, too. I suggust at least dot 4 STP or Super Blue for fluid. Make sure to machine the rear rotors.
Pressure bleeders are really great for fluid change-outs. But be warned: anything over 10 psi on the bleeder and you're asking for trouble. 8-10 psi is plenty.
After fluid change and new Pagids, my '87 N/A 944 was stopping 1/4 to 1/3 shorter in distance at the track at the same or greater speeds, which makes for some great late-threshold braking and better times overall. New fluid, stainless brake lines, and pads, and it will feel like a new car all together.
Take your time on the fluid change. I saw a guy loose it in a corner at the track 'cause his 'new' brakes failed him. The culprit was air in the lines...... Mmmm Mmmm Mmmm.
ood Luck! <img src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" />
Pressure bleeders are really great for fluid change-outs. But be warned: anything over 10 psi on the bleeder and you're asking for trouble. 8-10 psi is plenty.
After fluid change and new Pagids, my '87 N/A 944 was stopping 1/4 to 1/3 shorter in distance at the track at the same or greater speeds, which makes for some great late-threshold braking and better times overall. New fluid, stainless brake lines, and pads, and it will feel like a new car all together.
Take your time on the fluid change. I saw a guy loose it in a corner at the track 'cause his 'new' brakes failed him. The culprit was air in the lines...... Mmmm Mmmm Mmmm.
ood Luck! <img src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" />
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Sajid,
Couple of questions/observations -
What kind of driving do you do? For street driving, race pads are not going to be suitable because they need a lot of heat to work well. The car won't stop very well, the brakes will be noisy, the rotors will wear and the wheels will probably dust excessively.
If you drive mainly on the street, go with stock type pads (or maybe Metal Masters), make sure your rotors are in good shape, and flush the fluid, using a decent quality brake fluid (no need to use Super Blue or any other race fluid). With all that, you will have very good brakes. Stock brakes, well maintained, work very well.
If you are talking about track work, then the right Pagids or other track pads will help, as long as the rest of the brake system is healthy, with a fresh fluid flush (high temp fluid is a good idea), rotors in good shape, etc.
Of course, other things affect brake performance too, like tires, alignment and shocks. But you have to start by identifying what kind of driving you do.
Matt
Couple of questions/observations -
What kind of driving do you do? For street driving, race pads are not going to be suitable because they need a lot of heat to work well. The car won't stop very well, the brakes will be noisy, the rotors will wear and the wheels will probably dust excessively.
If you drive mainly on the street, go with stock type pads (or maybe Metal Masters), make sure your rotors are in good shape, and flush the fluid, using a decent quality brake fluid (no need to use Super Blue or any other race fluid). With all that, you will have very good brakes. Stock brakes, well maintained, work very well.
If you are talking about track work, then the right Pagids or other track pads will help, as long as the rest of the brake system is healthy, with a fresh fluid flush (high temp fluid is a good idea), rotors in good shape, etc.
Of course, other things affect brake performance too, like tires, alignment and shocks. But you have to start by identifying what kind of driving you do.
Matt
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My .02: I do not think that it is a question of stopping on a dime as much as it is a question of many stops on many closely spaced dimes. I think that it has to do more with the heat build up of many hard stops in a short period of time as you would see on the track – brake fade, in other words.