jcslocum

We are doing the belts and water pump and have been digging down to the pump. There are a few vacuum hoses under the manifold and we decided to pull the intake in order to replace them while we are doing this major job. Well, this pic explains why you need to be thorough when doing these big jobs:



This big hose was cracked 75% of the way thru. I'm sure trying to trouble-shoot the poor running would have driven us nuts.

James Chimney

is there a vacuum diagram some where? with a list of parts needed? any one sell a kit with every thing you need?

968 GUY

Look at Clarks garage and there is a sticky at the top of the turbo forum.

jcslocum

I didn't find one and these hoses are all different parts of a system. The one in the picture goes to the oil seperator toward the back of the engine. It's listing in the oil system parts list. Some of the others are listed in the jetronic portion of the parts list and then some are just not shown al all.....

We're also replacing all of the heater hoses at the back of the engine as well. Once the intake is off, these will be much easier.

jcslocum

We finally took this ripped hose off today after working thru all of the heater hoses on the back of the engine. This appears to have been cracked/broken for a long time.



Does a leak like this severly screw up engine performance like it would on a jetronic Alfa, which is VERY sensitive to vacuum leaks.

running_cold924

yes, alfas use sort of the same system the 44s do, its pretty much just all bosch.

John_AZ

Great pictures.

Make sure you cover the TDC hole so nothing drops in the clutch.

With the intake manifold off you should gap the reference sensors. It is a very easy to get to job.

Replace the ICV/ISV mounting rubber.

Replace the AOS seals----- the seals where you fill the oil. There are 2 seals ($$) but you will never have a better time to do it since you have to remove the intake to do it.

The heater control valve, does it leak by the pivot? Is there white calcium deposits on the valve? Replace it before it leaks on the clutch.

Replace all the pinch clamps with fuel injection clamps or non perforated screw hose clamps.--ALL
About 30 or so.

You could rinse out the ICV/ISV with Gumout Fuel Injection Throttle cleaner. Avoid any fluid that will distroy your O2 sensor when you clean.

GL
John

jcslocum

TDC hole has duct tape over it!! I learned by reading recently about something dropped down there... :-(

Whay should I regap the sensors?? I have founf nothing about this. We're new to the 944.

Those seals were part of the great rubber replacement project of 2010!!!

Heater control valve look good.

John_AZ

Clarks is THE place to start:
http://www.clarks-garage.com/

Sensors:
http://www.clarks-garage.com/shop-manual/ign-02.htm

again, IF you have not replaced the AOS seals-----you must do it with the intake off.

GL
John

ZW 944

I would not bother with the refrence sensors if they are working.

The 'ol dont fix it if it ain't broke applies here.

odurandina

sounds like a plan except for anything made of rubber or copper, of course...

sadly, we all know about a certain, (yellow 944) where the driver wasn't so lucky. great thread.


/

jcslocum

Sunday update:

All back together and started up on the first crank!!! Settled right into a nice smooth idle, which it NEVER did before. We have only onwned the car for 3 weeks but starting up and moving it around it never really ran cleanly. I'm thrilled and my daughter who did 90% of the work is ecstatic.

How is this for a confident kid:

The 944 (if it proves reliable) will be going back to university with her in 1 month. She's never had a car at school but this is her senior year and she's a superb student. I bought the car for this reason as a treat for her for doing so well. I know I'm rambling but I'm very proud.... When I told her that the belts need to be re-tensioned in 2000 miles, she said that she will be away at school. The she thouight for a moment and then said: "I will just take the tools required to do it there at school instead of coming home". Holy COW!!! I almost said, nah come on home and we can do it together, but was able to hold my tongue and let her have the moment.

She's a great garage buddy and learning how to take care of her own Porsche. F-ing awesome!!

Allie installing the cam belt



Adjusting the tensioner



New radiator hoses all around



Gapping the new plugs



She polished up the intake and valve cover too



Warming up on the driveway

ZW 944

To be honest, I never worried about the belt tension.

It is my humble opinion that failure has much more to do with belt condition than correct tension. Sure, in an ideal world, we would be checking things like that periodically, but I'd rather just change the belt every 20-25k miles than have to worry about it.

Just because I'm taking that risk, and have had no issues so far after 10k miles doesn't mean it would be advisable for others to follow my lead.

odurandina

i trust the superstitious masses. just had my crass new belts retensioned at 2 k miles a couple of weeks ago... but on the motor oil, mobile 1 50/50 mix of thiner and thicker, change the filter @ 5 k and go to 10 k (or even drag the soap opera on to 15 k) with the help of three filters before changing the oil.


that's how i've done with my 2 Ford Escapes and approaching 200 k on both without any issues.


but those belts. that's another story.

tydriver

You gave good reason to be proud. Very impressive!