Bleeding Clutch with Motive?
03-29-2002, 08:17 PM
#1
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Bleeding Clutch with Motive?
If the weather holds (high prob. of rain 
) I'll be bleeding the clutch system tommorrow on the 951. This will be the first time I've done a "bleeding" (other than cutting my hand once or twice 
).
So, any advise for me? I'll be using my brand spankin' new Motive Power Bleeder that Skip was so kind to send me. From the archives I've determined I'll need to remove the starter to get to the slave. Anyone know what size bolts the starter has?
TIA
<img src="graemlins/burnout.gif" border="0" alt="[burnout]" />
) I'll be bleeding the clutch system tommorrow on the 951. This will be the first time I've done a "bleeding" (other than cutting my hand once or twice ). So, any advise for me? I'll be using my brand spankin' new Motive Power Bleeder that Skip was so kind to send me. From the archives I've determined I'll need to remove the starter to get to the slave. Anyone know what size bolts the starter has?
TIA
<img src="graemlins/burnout.gif" border="0" alt="[burnout]" />
03-29-2002, 09:14 PM
#2
Rennlist Member
My 10 year old does my brakes/clutch with the Motive. It rocks...
- Where safety glasses
- Keep reservior very full to avoid sucking air into clutch. Trust me, it's okay to have to pull fluid out with a turkey baster or big plastic syringe. Going too low turns a 30 minute job into a 2 hour job.
- Don't pull the starter, just disconnect the negative terminal on the battery. I don't even do that and have only zapped myself once (won't make THAT mistake again).
- I do farthest calipers first and end with clutch. Watch the clutch slave bleeder screw. Mine has a tendency to loosen rather suddenly. Take that one slow and anticipate that it's a little loose/worn.
- Check your pressure frequently throughout process to keep it at about 10 psi
- Don't overtighten the bleeder screws and install dust caps if they are missing.
You will be amazed how easy it is with the bleeder. I use 10 or so psi and a little patience. The only time I've messed it up is when I let the level in reservior get a little too low and had to go through a laborious gravity bleed on the clutch to purge all the air.
Oh, use good fluid. I use Ate Blue and bleed after every 1-3 track days (that's a lot of litres of fluid).
Keep the shiny side up,
- Where safety glasses
- Keep reservior very full to avoid sucking air into clutch. Trust me, it's okay to have to pull fluid out with a turkey baster or big plastic syringe. Going too low turns a 30 minute job into a 2 hour job.
- Don't pull the starter, just disconnect the negative terminal on the battery. I don't even do that and have only zapped myself once (won't make THAT mistake again).
- I do farthest calipers first and end with clutch. Watch the clutch slave bleeder screw. Mine has a tendency to loosen rather suddenly. Take that one slow and anticipate that it's a little loose/worn.
- Check your pressure frequently throughout process to keep it at about 10 psi
- Don't overtighten the bleeder screws and install dust caps if they are missing.
You will be amazed how easy it is with the bleeder. I use 10 or so psi and a little patience. The only time I've messed it up is when I let the level in reservior get a little too low and had to go through a laborious gravity bleed on the clutch to purge all the air.
Oh, use good fluid. I use Ate Blue and bleed after every 1-3 track days (that's a lot of litres of fluid).
Keep the shiny side up,
03-29-2002, 09:57 PM
#3
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Dave,
Are you using a tube at the bleeder for the clutch? I'm wondering why the Haynes manual wants me to pull the starter?!?
Thanks,
Are you using a tube at the bleeder for the clutch? I'm wondering why the Haynes manual wants me to pull the starter?!?
Thanks,
03-29-2002, 11:03 PM
#4
Rennlist Member
Yup. I use the length of tube that came with the Motive. I took one of those 20 ounce Gatorade plastic bottles and drilled a whole in the cap. That's my fancy bleeder receptical.
Can barely get the tube onto the bleed screw and can barely get a wrench in there, but it is doable. Mine's an NA, don't know if that makes a difference on the starter (don't think so). If you place that nice conductive wrench in the wrong place, you will hear a big pop, see a big spark, and potentially create a big stain in your shorts. I learned the hard way. Now, I'll just disconnect the battery.
Do wear eye protection. If I bleed brakes, I don't even bother to raise the car. For the clutch, I put her up on ramps. On ramps, tight space, eyes peering into that little clutch slave area... yup, eyewear is a good idea.
Hope this helps,
Can barely get the tube onto the bleed screw and can barely get a wrench in there, but it is doable. Mine's an NA, don't know if that makes a difference on the starter (don't think so). If you place that nice conductive wrench in the wrong place, you will hear a big pop, see a big spark, and potentially create a big stain in your shorts. I learned the hard way. Now, I'll just disconnect the battery.
Do wear eye protection. If I bleed brakes, I don't even bother to raise the car. For the clutch, I put her up on ramps. On ramps, tight space, eyes peering into that little clutch slave area... yup, eyewear is a good idea.
Hope this helps,
03-29-2002, 11:06 PM
#5
Nordschleife Master
Haynes probably wants you to remove the starter because it is very tight getting up to the slave and moving a wrench. If you have never done a bleed before, it is likely a push time wise between the two approaches.