My home-made belly pan needs work. Overheating issue.
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I had my first track day since fabricating my belly pan (from what may have been at one time a 30 MPH sign). I made it a solid sheet from radiator support to the aluminum subframe.
First session, first day (at New Jersey Motorsports Park, Thunderbolt track) I saw temps go up almost to the red line. I immediately suspected my belly pan and took it off. Temps were significantly lower after that.
I was able to check out a belly pan on a 944 Turbo that was at the event, and it had multiple vents cut out between the radiator and the engine, so that's going to be one of my weekend mods -- cut some vent holes.
Otherwise, it was a wonderful, trouble-free, two-day event where I was able to catch and pass some very powerful and pricey hardware.
First session, first day (at New Jersey Motorsports Park, Thunderbolt track) I saw temps go up almost to the red line. I immediately suspected my belly pan and took it off. Temps were significantly lower after that.
I was able to check out a belly pan on a 944 Turbo that was at the event, and it had multiple vents cut out between the radiator and the engine, so that's going to be one of my weekend mods -- cut some vent holes.
Otherwise, it was a wonderful, trouble-free, two-day event where I was able to catch and pass some very powerful and pricey hardware.
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It's funny, most people that have one toss it aside. When someone doesn't have one at all, it's hard to find.
I think the vents are there to allow air to exit the radiator, otherwise there won't be a good flow of air through the radiator. But that's just my guess.
I think the vents are there to allow air to exit the radiator, otherwise there won't be a good flow of air through the radiator. But that's just my guess.
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The metal (ahemm...) that you are working with is a bit thick. Go pick up some thinner stuff. I think I used something in the range of 30 thou thick. Easier to cut, shape, bend etc. If you have a good picture of what a proper tray looks like, you could copy the slits in the pan to make vents that will draw out the air properly.
As for the forward pan directing air into the rad (I've never seen one, so I will take your word for it) Ducting the front of the car to direct air into the rad is a good idea. I have done extensive work like this on my 280Z with noticeable benefits in both cooling and handling
As for the forward pan directing air into the rad (I've never seen one, so I will take your word for it) Ducting the front of the car to direct air into the rad is a good idea. I have done extensive work like this on my 280Z with noticeable benefits in both cooling and handling
Last edited by ZR8ED; 06-22-2010 at 09:15 AM. Reason: measurement correction
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The metal (ahemm...) that you are working with is a bit thick. Go pick up some thinner stuff. I think I used something in the range of 30 thou thick. Easier to cut, shape, bend etc. If you have a good picture of what a proper tray looks like, you could copy the slits in the pan to make vents that will draw out the air properly.
As for the forward pan directing air into the rad (I've never seen one, so I will take your word for it) Ducting the front of the car to direct air into the rad is a good idea. I have done extensive work like this on my 280Z with noticeable benefits in both cooling and handling
As for the forward pan directing air into the rad (I've never seen one, so I will take your word for it) Ducting the front of the car to direct air into the rad is a good idea. I have done extensive work like this on my 280Z with noticeable benefits in both cooling and handling