Toran

O.K. will report back by tomorrow (Monday)afternoon.

Toran

Damn!
Car will not start now:-(
I turned the idle screw one full turn counter-clockwise, drive up the street and is stalled out again and again. Now if only I could get the idle screw back to where it was. All those hits drained the battery.

Any tips for getting the idle screw back to where it was?

T.I.A.

PeteL

That should not have made the car stall.

Get it running again, and set the idle per clark's garage.

Toran

I have no fancy tools just the socket wrench I used to mess it up:-(

BlackOp

Wow..really? Did you adjust it while the car was running and up to temp? I did mine slowly, checking the idle every 1/4 turn.

Toran

Ya the car was up to temp. I think one full turn counter-clockwise and thought that was the way to go. After all the turning I can't make heads or tails, and will try the jumper suggestion on Clark's Garage as per PeteL

BlackOp

Maybe you turned it the wrong way and set it too low? I dont know...I cant see why this would cause a no-start issue. Was it the only screw you adjusted?

Toran

Yes it was the only screw turned.

elzergone

So what is the other screw under the throttle cam for?

Toran

I've been at it for hours now and the car will not start. I have slowly turned the idle screw back to where it should be(kinda)

Sunday:
Rough idle but it always started and drove fine.

Turned the idle screw counter-clockwise one full motion and now.

Clarks Garage says:

Idle Adjustment

1. Turn off the fan motor and AC Compressor during idle adjustment.

2. Start the vehicle and allow it to idle to warm up the engine. The factory manual specifies performing the idle adjustment with the engine oil temperature between 70 - 90 °C (158 - 194 °F). The factory measuring device uses a probe which inserts into the oil dipstick tube. Since most of us can't justify investing in the factory measuring device, we have to come up with some other method of determining the oil temperature. Personally, I use a contact temperature gauge and measure the temperature on the bottom of the oil pan. If you wish to try the idle adjustment without measuring the oil temperature, run the engine for about 10 minutes after the coolant is at normal operating temperature.

3. For '85½ and newer models defeat the operation of the idle stabilizer by installing the jumper between terminals B and C of the diagnostic plug (see diagram). If you happen to have Special Tool 9246 (Test Relay), it can be used instead of the wire jumper to defeat the idle stabilizer. The idle stabilizer is not operating when the green lamp on the test relay is lit.

I cannot get past step 2 cause the car isn't starting.

Any tips?
T.I.A.

BlackOp

Man...sorry for posting my results. Seriously, I just turned my screw and it runs like a new car now.

I have no idea other than it possibly compounded another issue that was already there?

Toran

Thanks BlackOP, it seems like a good idea to try.
Nothing but pain when the car doesn't start...

BlackOp

Whats bizarre is I was testing a 951 the next morning. I had the funds and was ready to move on. These cars are clairvoyant like that..maybe you should threaten it.

Toran

Threats don't work on this ol girl, we have been together for 18yrs and she knows she is the only one.

bigcigarjeff

here's a couple of cheap seals that are often overlooked in the search for vac leaks:

999-701-846-40-M17 $2.25 1 $2.25
O-Ring for Oil Filler Cap Brand: Victor Reinz

Oil dipstick seal--at the top where you pull the dipstick out to check the oil, not where the tube attaches to oil pan....special order
OEM-90033101340 $1.50 1 $1.50
Genuine Porsche Part: RUBBER O-RING, Brand: Genuine PORSCHE

Thses are for 87 and up.....

the seal for 83-86 is part number--999-701-653-40 (oil filler cap seal)