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Ceramic Coated Piston to Cylinder Wall Clearance Issue

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Old 06-12-2010, 01:12 PM
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cjpacitto
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Default Ceramic Coated Piston to Cylinder Wall Clearance Issue

I just had my pistons coated by Swain Tech and they no longer fit in the cylinders.

I wiggled and pushed them in and it scraped off a small amount of the skirt coating. However, it is still a very tight fit once in.

I'm not quite sure what to do now. Can I simply install the piston and let the piston coating wear down to create the proper tolerance or am I risking significant damage before that happens?

Do I need to bore out the cylinders? I have already lapped them with AN-30 but I suppose I could hone and re-lap if necessary.

Any thoughts???
Old 06-14-2010, 07:21 PM
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cjpacitto
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Update...

I sent the following to Swain Tech today:
Hello, I just received my pistons back from you after being coated and discovered that they no longer fit in the cylinders. They received PC-9 on the skirts.

Prior to sending the pistons in I took the following measurements:
Avg. Piston Diameter = 3.9364"
Avg. Cylinder Bore = 3.9376"
Avg. Piston to Cylinder Clearance = 0.0012"

Now that they have been coated, the average piston diameter is 3.9390".

The engine is a Porsche 944 with an alusil block. Factory specs require a minimum of 0.0003" (0.008 mm) clearance between the pistons & cylinders.

I spoke to someone at your shop and was told to use sandpaper to buff down the thickness of the PC-9 coating. If I do this I would end up with an average thickness of the PC-9 coating of just 0.0004" in order to get my required clearance. Is that ok? Is there a minimum thickness of PC-9 I should maintain? Would I be better off enlarging the cylinders? Any thoughts or advice you can share would be greatly appreciated. Also, I was told to use 400 grit or coarser sandpaper to buff the coating. Is that correct? It seems like it should be 400 grit or finer so as not to rough the coating up too much.

Thanks in advance,

And I got the following response:
You can go either way. If you sand down some coating you risk sanding right through the coating and ending up with bare aluminum again. If you hone the cylinder you have the time and expense of the cylinder work. If it were me I would open up the cylinder but you could go either way.

I would use 400 or finer to reduce chances or removing too much coating too fast and being right back to the aluminum. The down side of 400 or finer is the paper loads up with coating quickly. Either way is acceptable but I would lean towards 400 or finer.

Regards,
Richard
Swain Tech Coatings, Inc.
I think I will hone the cylinders out a little bit using a traditional 3-arm hone then re-lap the cylinders with AN-30 silicon compound. Once that is done and I remeasure the cylinders I'll do a very light wet sanding of each piston to get the piston to cylinder clearance just right.

There doesn't seem to be much info out there in regards to actually honing the cyldiners. The factory manual does say it can be bored/honed/lapped to allow for oversized pistons, so I'm assuming I should be ok with this approach.
Old 06-14-2010, 07:59 PM
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John_AZ
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HondaDustR did the Honing per Porsche WSM. He has written a great DIY and using Sunnen AN-30.

Begins on post 25 but the "preview" posts are interesting.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...placement.html

GL
John
Old 06-14-2010, 08:17 PM
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John_AZ
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I found a DIY (long) using AN-30 on a Vega. I had a Porsche cylinder DIY book marked but it is NLA.
This may help you.

http://www.automotix.net/autorepair/...guide-181.html

GL
John



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