New Tech-Session available regarding the installation of Weltmeister Control Arm Bushings.

<a href="http://www.tech-session.com/Paragon/Tech/944_cabwelt.htm" target="_blank">944 Weltmeister Bushing Installation</a>



Looking for someone who has installed the same type (front only) on the later cast arms - need pictures. Thanks!

Good Luck!

 

How come you only get a replacement for the front with the later cars?

 

Good question. Because the later models use a solid (metal-on-metal) attachment to the actual arm, then a secondary molded rubber to steel mount to the chassis. To use an alternate bushing there would require the fabrication of a clamp, or alternate means of mounting - not that it cannot be done, it simply hasn't yet. Later arms (and early also) can use Racer's Edge or Weltmeister spherical bushings (all metal) to replace the rubber at the rear (caster block). Competition rules must be consulted - metal bushings are not allowed in most stock classes where alternate non-metal bushings are.

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Skip,

I had a stock rubber bushing "go away" a few days before an event. I found a set of the black Weltmiester bushings in stock at a local shop and put them in not knowing they were very old stock and the brittle material. They lasted three days at the Glen and the passenger side rear bushing started coming apart. I picked up a set of the rear bushings only and noticed the new color and slightly different feel. The question is do I switch out the front bushings before the next event (this weekend at Lime Rock), wait till the next event (the following weekend at Pocono) or can I leave them in and switch them before the trip to the Glen mid October. Basicaly is it just the rear bushings that tended to fail with the old material or should I be concerned with the fronts as well.

 

Oh yeah,

Who did the nice re-inforcing job on your a-arms, and how much if I can ask?

I also noticed your using the later single stud sway bar mount rather than the two bolt clamp. Advantages/disadvatages?

 

[quote]Originally posted by Al P.:
<strong>I had a stock rubber bushing "go away" a few days before an event. I found a set of the black Weltmiester bushings in stock at a local shop and put them in not knowing they were very old stock and the brittle material. They lasted three days at the Glen and the passenger side rear bushing started coming apart. I picked up a set of the rear bushings only and noticed the new color and slightly different feel. The question is do I switch out the front bushings before the next event (this weekend at Lime Rock), wait till the next event (the following weekend at Pocono) or can I leave them in and switch them before the trip to the Glen mid October. Basicaly is it just the rear bushings that tended to fail with the old material or should I be concerned with the fronts as well.</strong><hr></blockquote>

Funny you should ask - was just at the shop today talking these over with the installers - they say they've seen far more failures of the front bushings than the rear. The primary problem is the imprecise mounting area up front - both the moment of rotation, and the torque applied on installation (since there's no metal collar inset) are varying so much that they are assumed to cause the premature failure. Why they never used a metal inset to avoid this problem is beyond me - maybe for cost reasons.

The more popular alternative for hard core racers is the all-metal bushings mentioned earlier. They are a bit costly, so this is the next best thing.

My suggestion is to get the new (RED) bushings throughout - the Poly-Graphite (Black/Gray) are discontinued. Maybe just hold on to them and keep a good eye on those you have already - they're a quick swap if you indeed do suffer a failure, or see signs of cracking.

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[quote]Originally posted by Al P.:
<strong>Who did the nice re-inforcing job on your a-arms, and how much if I can ask?</strong><hr></blockquote>

Markus Blaszak (mblaszak@kos.net) I have one of the first sets he did, so prices have changed. I think they are ~$100 each or more now. He does a very good job on them - a bit more than your basic weld. As far as I'm concerned, if you're tracking a car with steel arms, this is a very smart move, but not required per se.

[quote]<strong>I also noticed your using the later single stud sway bar mount rather than the two bolt clamp. Advantages/disadvatages?</strong><hr></blockquote>

I chose for Markus to modify the arms to use the later drop-links so I would have the option of direct fit OE bushings, future aftermarket alternatives (still none), and proper angles on the stabilizer (968 M030, 30mm) - the bars are bent slightly different since the use of later drop-links.

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