Fuel Check Valve
#1
Track Day
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Richmond, VA
Posts: 18
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Post](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
When I go to start my car after it's been sitting for more than 6 hours, I have to leave the ignition on for half a minute or so for the fuel pump to push fuel through the system. I replaced the fuel filter and after looking through some websites, I’m thinking that it sounds like a fuel pump check valve, or maybe a pressure regulator… A check valve is cheaper, so I wanna try that first before I have to get a pressure regulator… Does anyone have any thoughts??? I know that the check valve is on the fuel pump, but I’m unsure of the best procedure to fix it. Thanks for the help.
Chip
Chip
#2
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist
Site Sponsor
Rennlist Member
Rennlist
Site Sponsor
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Virtually Everywhere...
Posts: 4,820
Likes: 0
Received 5 Likes
on
5 Posts
![Post](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
3 possibilities:
- check valve
- injector
- FPR
Check valve is on the engine side of the fuel pump - very easy to replace. Pull the fuel pump fuse with the engine running (relieves fuel line pressure, but some will still spill). You can't see much of the check valve as it's double-ended male type. Be sure to use flare nut wrench where possible.
Since a leaking injector can also cause fuel pressure to bleed off after shutdown, have a good smell of the dipstick to be sure you don't have gas in the oil. If unsure, pull the spark plugs to check for extreme gas odor - if so, replace/rebuild injector(s), and change oil immediately (gas in oil = very bad)
![](http://www.smartcart.com/Paragon/images/944_ckvlv.jpg)
Good Luck!
- check valve
- injector
- FPR
Check valve is on the engine side of the fuel pump - very easy to replace. Pull the fuel pump fuse with the engine running (relieves fuel line pressure, but some will still spill). You can't see much of the check valve as it's double-ended male type. Be sure to use flare nut wrench where possible.
Since a leaking injector can also cause fuel pressure to bleed off after shutdown, have a good smell of the dipstick to be sure you don't have gas in the oil. If unsure, pull the spark plugs to check for extreme gas odor - if so, replace/rebuild injector(s), and change oil immediately (gas in oil = very bad)
![](http://www.smartcart.com/Paragon/images/944_ckvlv.jpg)
Good Luck!
#4
Nordschleife Master
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Originally Posted by jeeper31
What is a flare nut wrench?
It's a wrench that will grab all six corners of a nut and still slip over the hose or pipe. Shaped like a "C" that closes a bit extra.
This helps get the fittings loose without messing up the fittings themselves.
Last edited by GlenL; 10-16-2004 at 09:37 PM. Reason: less drinking, more typing, or something to that effect
#5
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
The sears web site sells decent sets of flare nut wrenches. Unfortunately, if you need a single wrench (for example, if you need two 19mm's at the same time), the spare wrench costs about 50% of the cost of the whole set.
#6
Hey Man
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Thanks Skip-Good timing on this post...I have a similar problem and haven't seen a good description yet if it's the FPR or check valve. Mine is more of a "many crank" problem but the pump up symptoms sound familiar.No fuel in oil though. Is there an easy test to tell if it's the FPR or check valve without a fuel rail mounted gauge?
#7
Race Car
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I was told to take a hose clamp and at night clamp the hose on the output side of the fuel pump. This stops the fuel from flowiing back into the tank. then next day remove the clamp before you start the car. It should start right away without the excessive cranking. If this is the case it is your fuel pump check valve.