Shift Boot
09-24-2002, 02:35 PM
#1
Burning Brakes
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Shift Boot
I am considering replacing my shift boot. Does the aftermarket boot from places like Tweeks and Performance Products look like the original, or is better to go with something else?
09-24-2002, 03:23 PM
#2
Race Director
I got mine from Pelican Parts. Perfect fit: looks original. It just takes a little elbow grease to get the leather over the shift ****.
It's definately worth replacing.
-Z.
It's definately worth replacing.
-Z.
09-24-2002, 03:29 PM
#3
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I got one mail order, it looks great! It is a wheelskins cover. It was difficult to get over the ****, but possible. However I was unable to get the shift pattern plug back in. The new leather was thicker than the old, and the seams were way too bulky. I carefully cut the base off of the plug and attached it to the **** with silicone, which is an acceptable solution for me. I cannot imagine how anyone could get that plug back on there with the new boot in place.
The new boot looks really great though, is soft and I think has much more slack than the stock boot so if it does shrink it probably won't pull apart like the stock boot.
-Joel
The new boot looks really great though, is soft and I think has much more slack than the stock boot so if it does shrink it probably won't pull apart like the stock boot.
-Joel
09-24-2002, 04:06 PM
#4
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While you have the boot off take a serious look at the pin that engages the shifing link to the tansmission. This wears and allows the shifter to travel more than some boots can stretch pulling even a new boot off of the bottom flange/retaining ring.
Besides replacing the shifter if the side pin is worn, you can ream and sleeve the coupling at the end of the shift linkage with brass tubing.
Besides replacing the shifter if the side pin is worn, you can ream and sleeve the coupling at the end of the shift linkage with brass tubing.
09-24-2002, 04:50 PM
#6
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I wanted to replace my shift bood and leather steering wheel. I found a ad for a company called AGLA (www.aglausa.com) that did both in Excellence magazine. They provide you with the leather kit or for a little more they send a **** with the new leather already attached. I decided to take the chance and ordered the leather with **** included. It looked exactly like the original, it fit nice and tight on the ****,even the maroon color of the leather was exactly like the original. It took about 20 to install. I am very happy and will now send my wheel in for recovering.
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09-24-2002, 08:22 PM
#8
Race Director
Unless you are committed to the OEM shift **** and boot, I suggest a MOMO shift **** and MOMO boot. The MOMO boot screws into the bottom of the shift ****. It's really slick and it really gives a nice OEM or "tuner" appearance. I have this on my G20 and I can tell you it's sweet.
09-24-2002, 08:43 PM
#9
Rennlist Member
I've done several of these, and they're not that much of a bear, really. The important thing is to get the right leather replacement. It should be made from a quality leather that will last for a long time. I replaced what was probably the original boot on my 83 back in 1995 and my replacement lasted until last summer.
I have had good results with Alan Gun Leather Accessories. You can find them at <a href="http://www.agla.com." target="_blank">http://www.agla.com.</a> They aren't the cheapest but I find they use the best hides for their products. I just did the shift boot on my 951 in classic grey with a replacement from them and they sent me an identical match. They also use slightly thicker leather for a longer lasting restoration.
As for the recovering process itself, it is very important that the boot fit tightly on the ****, otherwise the leather will crease and eventually tear. If you decide to recover yours, make sure to specify the model year, as (according to AGLA) the shift ***** changed somewhat over the years. If you have a black interior, most suppliers will carry black boots but they generally aren't as good as AGLA's. Note: Be specific when ordering a black boot that you want an "AGLA" labeled product. I got a generic black boot from them that wasn't as good. For special Porsche colors, I know AGLA has them all.
The boot comes with instructions, but it basically boils down to being patient for a more nicely finished product. You will need talcum powder, soap and water, some rubber cement, a cutting utensil and a screwdriver.
1. Remove the old boot by pulling on the bottom, where it is held to the baseplate by an elastic. Remove the interior rubber boot as well.
2. Pull the boot upwards to expose the bottom of the shiftknob. There is a steel clip that keeps the **** attached to the shift rod. Remove the clip with a screwdriver and store it in a safe place.
3. Take the shiftknob assembly off, carefully pull the boot inside out, and pry the plastic shift pattern cap off carefully with a screwdriver. Be careful not to mar the pattern, or break the cap's three prongs that affix it to the ****.
4. Clean the rubber shiftknob and cap with soap and water to remove all old glue and leather residue. You may want to wash the interior rubber boot as well. Dry them carefully and apply talcum powder to the ****.
5. Drop the **** shaft into the smaller hole of the boot and slide the boot toward the top of the ****, carefully pushing the leather to conform to the upper part of the ****. Do this repeatedly until you can get the boot to cover the **** leaving about 1/4 inch of leather that overlaps at the top.
6. At this point you will need to push the overlapping leather over the border of the cap orifice, pressing it AGAIN and AGAIN to remove all creases and conform to the circumference. Use the rubber cement to help you keep the overlapping leather in the orifice as you do this.
7. When the leather around the cap orifice looks smooth enough, it's time to take the plunge and push the plastic cap back into the orifice, locking the overlapping leather into place. If it doesn't look right, pry it out, smooth the wrinkles and try again. It is better to spend the time now than to put up indefinitely with a shoddy ****. If it's still not fitting, you need to use the cutting utensil to trim the leather where it's bulging underneath the cap.
8. Once the cap is in place, you can now pull the boot back up inside out and apply more rubber cement to the lower part of the rubber shiftknob. Put the shiftknob back on the gear shaft and attach it with the metal clip. Pull the boot back down and press the leather against the ****. You can wait a few hours to let the cement dry for a perfect finish.
As far as replacement *****, you know, it's funny how well engineered these cars are. I don't know about the carbon fiber ones, but a friend of mine bought one of those fancy metal Momo replacement shift *****, and it fit fine but I noticed it made a pretty annoying rattle from the gearbox vibration. The OE ***** are made of rubber for a reason.
HTH
I have had good results with Alan Gun Leather Accessories. You can find them at <a href="http://www.agla.com." target="_blank">http://www.agla.com.</a> They aren't the cheapest but I find they use the best hides for their products. I just did the shift boot on my 951 in classic grey with a replacement from them and they sent me an identical match. They also use slightly thicker leather for a longer lasting restoration.
As for the recovering process itself, it is very important that the boot fit tightly on the ****, otherwise the leather will crease and eventually tear. If you decide to recover yours, make sure to specify the model year, as (according to AGLA) the shift ***** changed somewhat over the years. If you have a black interior, most suppliers will carry black boots but they generally aren't as good as AGLA's. Note: Be specific when ordering a black boot that you want an "AGLA" labeled product. I got a generic black boot from them that wasn't as good. For special Porsche colors, I know AGLA has them all.
The boot comes with instructions, but it basically boils down to being patient for a more nicely finished product. You will need talcum powder, soap and water, some rubber cement, a cutting utensil and a screwdriver.
1. Remove the old boot by pulling on the bottom, where it is held to the baseplate by an elastic. Remove the interior rubber boot as well.
2. Pull the boot upwards to expose the bottom of the shiftknob. There is a steel clip that keeps the **** attached to the shift rod. Remove the clip with a screwdriver and store it in a safe place.
3. Take the shiftknob assembly off, carefully pull the boot inside out, and pry the plastic shift pattern cap off carefully with a screwdriver. Be careful not to mar the pattern, or break the cap's three prongs that affix it to the ****.
4. Clean the rubber shiftknob and cap with soap and water to remove all old glue and leather residue. You may want to wash the interior rubber boot as well. Dry them carefully and apply talcum powder to the ****.
5. Drop the **** shaft into the smaller hole of the boot and slide the boot toward the top of the ****, carefully pushing the leather to conform to the upper part of the ****. Do this repeatedly until you can get the boot to cover the **** leaving about 1/4 inch of leather that overlaps at the top.
6. At this point you will need to push the overlapping leather over the border of the cap orifice, pressing it AGAIN and AGAIN to remove all creases and conform to the circumference. Use the rubber cement to help you keep the overlapping leather in the orifice as you do this.
7. When the leather around the cap orifice looks smooth enough, it's time to take the plunge and push the plastic cap back into the orifice, locking the overlapping leather into place. If it doesn't look right, pry it out, smooth the wrinkles and try again. It is better to spend the time now than to put up indefinitely with a shoddy ****. If it's still not fitting, you need to use the cutting utensil to trim the leather where it's bulging underneath the cap.
8. Once the cap is in place, you can now pull the boot back up inside out and apply more rubber cement to the lower part of the rubber shiftknob. Put the shiftknob back on the gear shaft and attach it with the metal clip. Pull the boot back down and press the leather against the ****. You can wait a few hours to let the cement dry for a perfect finish.
As far as replacement *****, you know, it's funny how well engineered these cars are. I don't know about the carbon fiber ones, but a friend of mine bought one of those fancy metal Momo replacement shift *****, and it fit fine but I noticed it made a pretty annoying rattle from the gearbox vibration. The OE ***** are made of rubber for a reason.
HTH
09-24-2002, 09:19 PM
#11
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[quote]Originally posted by Luis de Prat:
<strong>I have had good results with Alan Gun Leather Accessories. You can find them at <a href="http://www.agla.com." target="_blank">http://www.agla.com.</a> </strong><hr></blockquote>
that link points to an insurance company. alan gun can be found at <a href="http://www.aglausa.com" target="_blank">www.aglausa.com</a>
<img src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" />
elvisizer
<strong>I have had good results with Alan Gun Leather Accessories. You can find them at <a href="http://www.agla.com." target="_blank">http://www.agla.com.</a> </strong><hr></blockquote>
that link points to an insurance company. alan gun can be found at <a href="http://www.aglausa.com" target="_blank">www.aglausa.com</a>
<img src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" />
elvisizer
