Headlight Upgrade- everyone please read...
03-09-2002, 10:19 AM
#16
Nordschleife Master
>>Anyway, do you know which wire I need to use
>>(immidiately @ switch) to turn on the relay for
>>low beams, and which wire for high beams?
>>Thanks again.
>>Ahmet
Sorry, Ahmet, I think I didn't answer your question of a few weeks ago. Was reading Stray's notes on Pelican and got back to this thread.
I don't have the wiring diagram to your car handy but why don't you just test if you are getting voltage out of the fuse? Told this to someone else last night. At least you will know which way to go to find the prob, upstream or down stream. Don't know which side of fuse slots is hot on your car, but one will be dead and the other should be at 12+ volts, or something plus, with everything off except your lights. Then move from there.
My bet is the PO hacked into the fuse board also and screwed it up. That is why you see this total SNAFU down at the lights.
If you can at least get a couple watts of power out of the stock wiring to the left headlight to use as the switch, I can pretty much guarantee you that this Headlight Kit will get more volts to the lights under heavy load (600 watts) than you get to the battery. Well, I will guarantee it if you install right and have OE wiring to battery.
I'm not sure how things will turn out with Ribs having me make up some #2 gauge wire from alt to battery and some new heavy grounds along with the headlight kit. I think we may have a push on voltage there. LOL! <img src="graemlins/roflmao.gif" border="0" alt="[hiha]" />
>>(immidiately @ switch) to turn on the relay for
>>low beams, and which wire for high beams?
>>Thanks again.
>>Ahmet
Sorry, Ahmet, I think I didn't answer your question of a few weeks ago. Was reading Stray's notes on Pelican and got back to this thread.
I don't have the wiring diagram to your car handy but why don't you just test if you are getting voltage out of the fuse? Told this to someone else last night. At least you will know which way to go to find the prob, upstream or down stream. Don't know which side of fuse slots is hot on your car, but one will be dead and the other should be at 12+ volts, or something plus, with everything off except your lights. Then move from there.
My bet is the PO hacked into the fuse board also and screwed it up. That is why you see this total SNAFU down at the lights.
If you can at least get a couple watts of power out of the stock wiring to the left headlight to use as the switch, I can pretty much guarantee you that this Headlight Kit will get more volts to the lights under heavy load (600 watts) than you get to the battery. Well, I will guarantee it if you install right and have OE wiring to battery.
I'm not sure how things will turn out with Ribs having me make up some #2 gauge wire from alt to battery and some new heavy grounds along with the headlight kit. I think we may have a push on voltage there. LOL! <img src="graemlins/roflmao.gif" border="0" alt="[hiha]" />
03-09-2002, 11:48 AM
#19
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Ice, I didn't want to be rude asking the same question to you more than once, I'm glad you got back to me.
Anyway, I'm making a lot of progress with the car, I'm going to decide what to do with the engine next week, but aside from that brakes should be completely sorted mid next week, and I'm moving along with the rest of the thing. Power mirrors, locks, windows, seats, turn signals, all lights aside from headlights and back up lights now work all work. Sunroof, climate control system, and suspension are going to be my next area of attack.
Anyway, back to the headlights. After reading your post, I decided to not be a wuss and go ahead and tear into the thing, and here's what I find: The wiring harness to the headlights is missing from the fuseboard! But there's power to the switch, anyway if you get a chanse to look at a diagram anytime soon, that'll be great if not that's no biggie I can try to attain one from another source. I'm going to put the relays right behind the actual switch, and I may move the wiring for the headlights to the alternator, as I don't like the look of a crowded battery area (already have the wires going on it for amp, etc.) anyway. Oh here's an interesting electrical problem, power windows, mirrors, climate control fan, defroster, and wipers all work with the ignition off and the key out... I'm going to have fun trying to figure that one out.
Anyway, thanks again for the reply.
Ahmet
Anyway, I'm making a lot of progress with the car, I'm going to decide what to do with the engine next week, but aside from that brakes should be completely sorted mid next week, and I'm moving along with the rest of the thing. Power mirrors, locks, windows, seats, turn signals, all lights aside from headlights and back up lights now work all work. Sunroof, climate control system, and suspension are going to be my next area of attack.
Anyway, back to the headlights. After reading your post, I decided to not be a wuss and go ahead and tear into the thing, and here's what I find: The wiring harness to the headlights is missing from the fuseboard! But there's power to the switch, anyway if you get a chanse to look at a diagram anytime soon, that'll be great if not that's no biggie I can try to attain one from another source. I'm going to put the relays right behind the actual switch, and I may move the wiring for the headlights to the alternator, as I don't like the look of a crowded battery area (already have the wires going on it for amp, etc.) anyway. Oh here's an interesting electrical problem, power windows, mirrors, climate control fan, defroster, and wipers all work with the ignition off and the key out... I'm going to have fun trying to figure that one out.
Anyway, thanks again for the reply.
Ahmet
03-09-2002, 01:14 PM
#20
Nordschleife Master
Billy, yup, them #2 is pretty thick. Is your dick bigger around? LOL <img src="graemlins/roflmao.gif" border="0" alt="[hiha]" /> Just kidding, a common joke. 
But that is the big price you pay for only 12/14 volts. And why we are all going to the switch to 36/42 volts now. 12 volt will take a while to phase out, longer than 6, but we 12 volters will be dinosaures soon.
Ribs has pretty bad headlights and a big stereo load so he is sort of overdoing it on some things. Well, it really doesn't cost all that much more in wire once you get up into that range for short runs. A dollar here a foot there. Just do it right the first time around.
Ahmet, get back to me on the wiring problems in two weeks, when I can consider it a bit more fully. Glad to see you are going to go off the alternator for power to headlights. You should put the relays down under the headlight bucket not behind the switch. Will make a big difference.
You know I got the wiring kit for $125. There is a bunch of first class material in it. And will solve all your problems if you can get a couple watts down to the new relay/fuse box under the left headlight bucket to drive relay switches. If you buy the fixinges in small quantities it will cost you well on the $125. Then you have your labor figuring out how to do this and where to get *good* parts. And prices.
If you buy and don't like it you can send it back in a week and get your money back, if you haven't screwed up the bits.
I know you are a wrench and cheap, but something to think about.
But that is the big price you pay for only 12/14 volts. And why we are all going to the switch to 36/42 volts now. 12 volt will take a while to phase out, longer than 6, but we 12 volters will be dinosaures soon.
Ribs has pretty bad headlights and a big stereo load so he is sort of overdoing it on some things. Well, it really doesn't cost all that much more in wire once you get up into that range for short runs. A dollar here a foot there. Just do it right the first time around.
Ahmet, get back to me on the wiring problems in two weeks, when I can consider it a bit more fully. Glad to see you are going to go off the alternator for power to headlights. You should put the relays down under the headlight bucket not behind the switch. Will make a big difference.
You know I got the wiring kit for $125. There is a bunch of first class material in it. And will solve all your problems if you can get a couple watts down to the new relay/fuse box under the left headlight bucket to drive relay switches. If you buy the fixinges in small quantities it will cost you well on the $125. Then you have your labor figuring out how to do this and where to get *good* parts. And prices.
If you buy and don't like it you can send it back in a week and get your money back, if you haven't screwed up the bits.
I know you are a wrench and cheap, but something to think about.
03-09-2002, 04:03 PM
#21
Track Day
Join Date: Jun 2001
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Hey Ice Shark. Is it too late to get in on the lighting package? I must have missed the earlier thread on how much a deposit you need and where to send it. You can email me direct if you want
at beammeup@xmission.com.
Thanks Much.
Scott
at beammeup@xmission.com.
Thanks Much.
Scott