Camber plates, when do you need them?
#16
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I can't get on there. Guess I need to sign up at another spot.
I do understand the spherical heim binding and the washer fix. A better solution would be to use a needle thrust bearing on the mookehs, but that still does not solve the binding within the spherical contact area that is made worse by adding the load of the car. I am looking into a different approach and using a self-aligning spherical roller bearing. What I need to know is the full range of motion in degrees that the 944 shock shaft articulates throughout its full extension and compression?
I do understand the spherical heim binding and the washer fix. A better solution would be to use a needle thrust bearing on the mookehs, but that still does not solve the binding within the spherical contact area that is made worse by adding the load of the car. I am looking into a different approach and using a self-aligning spherical roller bearing. What I need to know is the full range of motion in degrees that the 944 shock shaft articulates throughout its full extension and compression?
The problem is (and always will be) that the loads have to be carried on the circumference of the spherical bearing; and making that bearing swivel easily is almost impossible with all the weight it bears -- and gets worse when you factor in a little bit of wear and dirt.
#17
I agree, the spherical joint is out-dated. Although I do like the teflon lined heims for rod-ends, this application takes a constant static load and needs to articulate easily due to the fact it is on a steering component. I got the idea of a spherical roller from a large 3-phase electric motor tranfer case I worked on few years back. It could take 15k lbs static load and had close to the shaft diameter of the 944 strut. It may even be possible to find one close the size of the Mookeh plate and retro-fitted.
#18
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I agree, the spherical joint is out-dated. Although I do like the teflon lined heims for rod-ends, this application takes a constant static load and needs to articulate easily due to the fact it is on a steering component. I got the idea of a spherical roller from a large 3-phase electric motor tranfer case I worked on few years back. It could take 15k lbs static load and had close to the shaft diameter of the 944 strut. It may even be possible to find one close the size of the Mookeh plate and retro-fitted.
#19
I don't agree with that at all. Camber plates are of great value on 944 spec cars. I run 3 to 3.5 deg of negative camber on my 944 and I can't get that on stock struts. I can also use them as a tuning tool. 0.5 deg does not impact toe very much and can help fine tune the balance or tune the right tire temp spread across the tire.
#20
And as far as changing camber without resetting toe and thinking it's no problem....well try doing that on a real race team and you are either at the back of the pack or on a bus back home
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#24
Hey Greg, I got your old Mookeh plates in the mail. I'm looking them over and the culprit as I suspected is a metal-to-metal spherical heim joint that needs to be upgraded. I do have a question, the I.D. of the shherical joint is 18mm, the strut top threading and insertion step/shaft is 14mm.....did these come with spacer/bearing (2mm wall) to make up the difference? If a correct size needle roller can be sourced with a different larger ID spherical (TEFLON)....then the Mookeh bottom adjuster can be re-used....
Another design flaw is the spherical joint needs to be set higher (to lower the strut tower/body position)....that and the small diameter washers that are cutting into the billet sliders....
Another design flaw is the spherical joint needs to be set higher (to lower the strut tower/body position)....that and the small diameter washers that are cutting into the billet sliders....
#25
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Hey Greg, I got your old Mookeh plates in the mail. I'm looking them over and the culprit as I suspected is a metal-to-metal spherical heim joint that needs to be upgraded. I do have a question, the I.D. of the shherical joint is 18mm, the strut top threading and insertion step/shaft is 14mm.....did these come with spacer/bearing (2mm wall) to make up the difference? If a correct size needle roller can be sourced with a different larger ID spherical (TEFLON)....then the Mookeh bottom adjuster can be re-used....
Another design flaw is the spherical joint needs to be set higher (to lower the strut tower/body position)....that and the small diameter washers that are cutting into the billet sliders....
Another design flaw is the spherical joint needs to be set higher (to lower the strut tower/body position)....that and the small diameter washers that are cutting into the billet sliders....
I should have included the top strut bolts. It has a "sleeve" that mates with a lower cuff to fill the gap. Theoretically, it also keeps the strut shaft away from the spherical bearing. I assume that if this gap was bigger, you could have a bearing surface between.
The Ground Control camber plates dropped my suspension a solid 3/4 inches. I've cranked the coilovers up twice and they're still too low! This weekend I'll go up another 1/4".
Let me know what you come up with!