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Hello my name is James Stamford, CT and I just got a 1985.5 944 Guard red/Linen on Wednesday and love it, the rear hatch opens by key and some times by the remote (by my left foot) but it does not "pop up" I have to lift it manually, every thing works fine (motor linkage adjusted) the rear lift shocks where replaced by PO in 2008 will changing them again fix this or do they make a spring (what it seems to need) or did I miss some thing.
I looked through the archives and no one thread seems to cover my problem.
I am so looking forward to having this car for a very long time, never had this much fun driving a car (I have had Motor cycles for years 97 Suzuki Bandit 1200 and riding that was the most fun you can have with your cloths on, this is #2) that I am selling and replaced it with this 944.
thanks James
I've only seen them do that with brand new hatch shocks which I do not recommend you install since they hasten the separation of glass to frame up near the hinges. YMMV
I was messing around with it tonight and I took the screws off next to the latch's that stick down from the under side of the hatch, added 2 small washers and reassembled, now when I turn the key or hit the remote switch, the hatch pops open (it does not lift full open but I no longer need to lift the the hatch to open it)
The story I've heard about the whole hatch thing is that Porsche originally designed it to be kind of a pop up type of hatch when you hit the release button, but could never really get the 944's to do this consistently.
The story I've heard about the whole hatch thing is that Porsche originally designed it to be kind of a pop up type of hatch when you hit the release button, but could never really get the 944's to do this consistently.
Would you have a picture of where to place these washers and how to do it? I want to try on my 944 as well, i'm having the same issue.
Thanks in advance.
Guys don’t do it. If you have done it, in-do it. Search for “hatch glass separation” and read about the full horror of this design taking its toll on hatches. Many people use different methods fo hold up the hatch, but do not use the gas filled struts. Please!
NOW you tell me! LOL! My problem is that once I adjust the pins (new) and the latches (also new with rubber seals, I can't get the hatch to seal in the down position and then when I try to use the key (I don't have the automatic thingy) I can't seem to get it to release..So I'll just keep it down. BTW if you have to go back there and release it manually ( a real hassle) you might take the passenger seat out first..just sayin..if you have to work on it. Even with anti-seize on the parts, it won't act right until I get the hatch off the locks about a quarter of an inch..which is no good as it will let the exhaust back into the cabin. More fiddling..
Sorry to hear about the hatch issues. When I got my car, I had hatch latching issues. I replaced the rubber seal and added these delrin inserts--a new thing back then:
The O-rings that squeeze the plastic inserts were too light so I replaced them with heavier (thicker) ones. It's been over ten years and 170K kms and I've only recently begun hearing the "loose-hatch" rattle on warm days again. I can't adjust my pins as they are quite seized on the hatch. I'm betting new O-rings will fix it. These inserts are very cool and effective
If the issues continue with this little bad guy, I might just give those delrin inserts a shot ..if they're still available. I may just do what the Brits did a long time ago and put a pull cable with a Tee handle on the latch lockworks assembly close to the passenger door. Shorter cable that way..Jag used this on their E-type coupes and 2+2's aback in the 60's..worked great but the rear door on those cars was much different.