Any guesses as to what I fried?
05-15-2010, 09:48 AM
#31
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On the ign. switch socket,there is a black wire that goes out the back along with the coil wire. It is solid black and a smaller guage.
Guessing it goes to relays, etc like Peanut said, but not sure exactly what. I want to trace/check this one also to make sure it didn't sustain any damage
*Edit its wire (15) and it runs to the Door Dinger Relay "928 618 102 02"
Ran the temp wire from (15) to the (+) coil, but still no tach bounce so it appears I have another problem now, no luck with either DME relay. Ordering another for ****s.
Guessing it goes to relays, etc like Peanut said, but not sure exactly what. I want to trace/check this one also to make sure it didn't sustain any damage
*Edit its wire (15) and it runs to the Door Dinger Relay "928 618 102 02"
Ran the temp wire from (15) to the (+) coil, but still no tach bounce so it appears I have another problem now, no luck with either DME relay. Ordering another for ****s.
Last edited by luftpirate; 05-15-2010 at 10:48 AM.
05-15-2010, 02:01 PM
#32
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Is your car a 85.5 or a 84 model year? I can post up the proper schematic and tell you were the wires go, just want the correct year.
If you run the wire only to the coil, you bypass all the other locations that get power from that lead. You need to follow the wire back into the fuse box and to the point of the original short to insure that no other wires are melted to that lead and are also damaged. Then run a new wire of the correct gauge (2.5mm= 10 gauge) to replace the one that is damaged following the original path of the damaged wire.
If you run the wire only to the coil, you bypass all the other locations that get power from that lead. You need to follow the wire back into the fuse box and to the point of the original short to insure that no other wires are melted to that lead and are also damaged. Then run a new wire of the correct gauge (2.5mm= 10 gauge) to replace the one that is damaged following the original path of the damaged wire.
Last edited by Bri Bro; 05-15-2010 at 07:40 PM.
05-15-2010, 04:20 PM
#34
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Is your car a 85.5 or a 85 model year? I can post up the proper schematic and tell you were the wires go, just want the correct year.
If you run the wire only to the coil, you bypass all the other locations that get power from that lead. You need to follow the wire back into the fuse box and to the point of the original short to insure that no other wires are melted to that lead and are also damaged. Then run a new wire of the correct gauge (2.5mm= 10 gauge) to replace the one that is damaged following the original path of the damaged wire.
If you run the wire only to the coil, you bypass all the other locations that get power from that lead. You need to follow the wire back into the fuse box and to the point of the original short to insure that no other wires are melted to that lead and are also damaged. Then run a new wire of the correct gauge (2.5mm= 10 gauge) to replace the one that is damaged following the original path of the damaged wire.
My car is an early 85.
Okay sorry, I was under the impression the larger guage black wire from (15) on the switch went directly to the coil. I found that the smaller black wire goes to the door dinger/headlight washer relay. I have no idea where the coil wire hops too first.
More like scrambled my brain.
05-15-2010, 04:33 PM
#35
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If you follow the line straight down in the schematic, it goes into the fuse box. Also note that there are several wire connection points inside the fuse box. My guess is only one connecting wire was damaged, the one that goes to the coil. You will have to pull the fuse box cover up to see all the wires under it. This isn't going to be easy but it can be done.
I will dig out the 85 944 schematic and that should point to the connection points in the fuse box.
I will dig out the 85 944 schematic and that should point to the connection points in the fuse box.
05-15-2010, 05:12 PM
#36
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A12 and E2 both have the thick guage solid black wires coming out on the back of the fuse block, both connectors on the block show signs of overheating, if I do a continuity test between the two pins they dont connect. I tried to pry the white face/backing off the fuse block but I don't see how it comes off, I stopped because I didn't want to break it any further, looks like a need a new fuse block.
E2 looks to wire directly to the ignition switch. Continuity there is fine.
E2 looks to wire directly to the ignition switch. Continuity there is fine.
06-05-2010, 03:16 AM
#37
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Turns out I fried the ignition switch, fuse/relay block and melted a little wire insulation. It is all back up and running now. I found a replacement fuse/relay block on Ebay. Here are some pics of the carnage for those of you wondering what's inside a early fuse/relay block. I would not advise trying to repair one but they are fun to take apart.
If I had to do it all over again I would say forget the stupid MSD coil and go with a stocker just because mounting the ballast is precarious and can lead to all headaches above if something goes wrong.
This is where I ended up mounting the ballast, I just bent the aluminum bracket to match the contour of the bracket for the resevoir.
If I had to do it all over again I would say forget the stupid MSD coil and go with a stocker just because mounting the ballast is precarious and can lead to all headaches above if something goes wrong.
This is where I ended up mounting the ballast, I just bent the aluminum bracket to match the contour of the bracket for the resevoir.
Last edited by luftpirate; 06-08-2010 at 12:05 AM.
