my 968 project... LS3, 190 mph top end....
#16
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I sure as hell wanted it to be... but the installer had other plans.
his solution ? a special rockford sub disigned for high performance cars with limited space.
the result is the same. the sound pressure levels are amazing.
will try to dig up a photo from the other thread that shows the actual shape of the enclosure.
the amp on the floor is a 4X150 running the larger speakers now installed in the doors, and behind the doors and the tweeters. it plays godawful loud... the door speakers have no midbass running through them... they are crossed over at 240 HZ. the big midbass drivers behind the seats are crossed over at 80 Hz. the sub amp is set up as a 500 W monoblock.
.
his solution ? a special rockford sub disigned for high performance cars with limited space.
the result is the same. the sound pressure levels are amazing.
will try to dig up a photo from the other thread that shows the actual shape of the enclosure.
the amp on the floor is a 4X150 running the larger speakers now installed in the doors, and behind the doors and the tweeters. it plays godawful loud... the door speakers have no midbass running through them... they are crossed over at 240 HZ. the big midbass drivers behind the seats are crossed over at 80 Hz. the sub amp is set up as a 500 W monoblock.
.
Maybe the guy was a salesman and didn't know any better?
Either way I do like the design, just would have left the bottom out or finsihed the box all the way thru the well.
![cherrsagai](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/drink.gif)
#18
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Nice pics on the enclosure. But what do you mean 'special Rockford sub designed for limited space' ? That is just a standard RF P3-10. They are not designd for limited space, as they take a minimum of 1.15 CF ported or 1.30 CF of air space~sealed enclosure to even get close to optimal sound. That enclosure, while cool looking can't have more than .5 ~ .7 CF.
Maybe the guy was a salesman and didn't know any better?
Either way I do like the design, just would have left the bottom out or finsihed the box all the way thru the well.
![cherrsagai](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/drink.gif)
Maybe the guy was a salesman and didn't know any better?
Either way I do like the design, just would have left the bottom out or finsihed the box all the way thru the well.
![cherrsagai](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/drink.gif)
reposting here... as i made edits and included more details about the components.
this is indeed, a special rockford sub disigned for high performance cars with limited space !! it's not the correct transducer for use with a larger standard box that you put in the back of your Nissan Pathfinder.
i researched the transducer and the range of size for the enclosure is EXACTLY what you just mentioned ! so, you got esp or something ?
the subwoofer is a Rockford Fosgate P3D410 P3 10" deep mount transducer w/ duel voice coils (not the popular, shallow unit) the product is designed to work with very small enclosures...
FEATURES:
•10" subwoofer with dual 4ohm voice coils
•fiber cone reinforced with Kevlar with polyetherester surround
•"Venturi effect" design for maximum cooling of motor structure
•power range: 50-400 watts RMS (200 watts per voice coil)
•peak power handling: 800 watts
•frequency response: 29-250 Hz
•sensitivity: 83 dB
•top-mount depth: 6-1/4"
•sealed box volume: 0.5-0.75 cubic feet
[yeah !! i couldn't believe that part either - but there it is !!].
i asked Rick the installer, what the deal was and he said. "we're at the correct enclosure size for this woofer design."
the guy takes serious pride in his work - a true fanatic... the shelf he built for the sub amp is really sweet.
the sealed box we used is .72 cubic feet when after installing the transducer.
he used packaging popcorn to measure the enclosure.
sub amp is a P500-1BD - Rockford Fosgate Punch 1 Ch. 500 watt monoblock.
http://www.woofersetc.com/p7589/P500...-Amplifier.htm
the thing that really matters to me is the sound. i have heard more bass before in a subwoofer system but this is all the space i was willing to give up to have bass. and the bass i'm getting is all the bass this car needs in my opinion. i can't turn the system up to the limit where i begin to hear distortion before my eardrums feel like they will explode. the door speakers and midbass drivers behind the doors get very loud.
the sub has the deep rich bass i was looking for. competition level ? no. but, overall, the system sounds really good.
.
Last edited by odurandina; 05-06-2010 at 12:19 PM.
#19
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I really dig your sub setup. Looks like it was done right. If/when I go for a subwoofer in my car, I would be remove the rear seats completely for weight savings and build a housing for a sub into that newly created space. I'm a bit worried that the actual sub would be too close for comfort... so your solution is looking better to me.
I'm seriously considering those wheels in black, however the center caps and the nuts around the wheel's edge come chromed (eww) from the Ebay seller. I would have to powerdercoat them black. Still toying around with the idea.
Do you remember noticing any difference with the way your car handled at first with those wheels?
I know they are cast, and quite heavy, but for $700 shipped they are as close to real SSR GT3 wheels as I'll ever get.
I'm seriously considering those wheels in black, however the center caps and the nuts around the wheel's edge come chromed (eww) from the Ebay seller. I would have to powerdercoat them black. Still toying around with the idea.
Do you remember noticing any difference with the way your car handled at first with those wheels?
I know they are cast, and quite heavy, but for $700 shipped they are as close to real SSR GT3 wheels as I'll ever get.
#22
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at 8,000 euros and 4 years too late, this coveted transmission and gears eludes. ![banghead](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/banghead.gif)
http://www.clarks-garage.com/phpBB2/...1ae5cf2f10a6da
i am also not 100 % sure if this was just a track day transmission or the actual Turbo S trans with the long highway gears. that remains unclear.
i found one source at a shop in California who can get the coveted 5th or 6th gears but the probem is the owner is a crook.
one of the guys in the shop quote me the real price for either a .660 or .071 6th gear, ($ 1,100)... he had one set but had actually sold it on ebay for $ 1,000. when i talked to the owner a few days later about ordering the part, he jacked up the price to $ 2,050.
such is the dilemma.
.
![banghead](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/banghead.gif)
http://www.clarks-garage.com/phpBB2/...1ae5cf2f10a6da
i am also not 100 % sure if this was just a track day transmission or the actual Turbo S trans with the long highway gears. that remains unclear.
i found one source at a shop in California who can get the coveted 5th or 6th gears but the probem is the owner is a crook.
one of the guys in the shop quote me the real price for either a .660 or .071 6th gear, ($ 1,100)... he had one set but had actually sold it on ebay for $ 1,000. when i talked to the owner a few days later about ordering the part, he jacked up the price to $ 2,050.
such is the dilemma.
.
Last edited by odurandina; 05-07-2010 at 09:41 PM.
#26
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ok sourcing for the 180 + mph 5th and 6th gearsets has been solved...
trying to source FRONT suspension parts (rear suspension is fine)... just looking to do a refresh for the street by replacing ALL the rubber bushings/stuff that should be worn out at 120 k miles,
was wondeing about whether or not i could rebuild my lower control arms... i guess not. what i'm being told by the parts houses is that there's no 968 lca rebuild kits available.... and if i could ever source parts for a rebuild, they wouldn't be able to handle the stress of retrofitting the new ball joints...
anyway, i would also like to lower the front end about 3/4" which i reason would necessitate going to a stiffer spring.....
i attempted to locate struts or inserts to lower the car but so far, no clue what to get or where to get it.
don't know much about any of the parts i need... but so far i came up with is the two lower control arms @ $ 520.00 per side...
http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/...pg4.htm#item17
OEM Rear Mount with Bushing for Front Suspension Control Arm @ $ 95.75 per side...
http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/...9%2C%20Each%20
sway bar bushings... couldn't locate them
tie rod ends.... do i need tie rods ?
http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/...9%2C%20Each%20
struts/springs/inserts..... totally lost.
/
trying to source FRONT suspension parts (rear suspension is fine)... just looking to do a refresh for the street by replacing ALL the rubber bushings/stuff that should be worn out at 120 k miles,
was wondeing about whether or not i could rebuild my lower control arms... i guess not. what i'm being told by the parts houses is that there's no 968 lca rebuild kits available.... and if i could ever source parts for a rebuild, they wouldn't be able to handle the stress of retrofitting the new ball joints...
anyway, i would also like to lower the front end about 3/4" which i reason would necessitate going to a stiffer spring.....
i attempted to locate struts or inserts to lower the car but so far, no clue what to get or where to get it.
don't know much about any of the parts i need... but so far i came up with is the two lower control arms @ $ 520.00 per side...
http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/...pg4.htm#item17
OEM Rear Mount with Bushing for Front Suspension Control Arm @ $ 95.75 per side...
http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/...9%2C%20Each%20
sway bar bushings... couldn't locate them
tie rod ends.... do i need tie rods ?
http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/...9%2C%20Each%20
struts/springs/inserts..... totally lost.
/
#27
Burning Brakes
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was wondeing about whether or not i could rebuild my lower control arms... i guess not. what i'm being told by the parts houses is that there's no 968 lca rebuild kits available.... and if i could ever source parts for a rebuild, they wouldn't be able to handle the stress of retrofitting the new ball joints...
#28
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wow.... thanks... i like stock ride feel but not the hight. need to come down about 3/4"...
but seriously if i can make the 944 arms work, would lowering the suspension with the proper coil-overs work ?
/
but seriously if i can make the 944 arms work, would lowering the suspension with the proper coil-overs work ?
/
Last edited by odurandina; 08-19-2010 at 08:50 PM.
#29
Burning Brakes
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Well if you also want to lower it you will have to use the ball joint kit with longer pins to correct the geometry, http://www.paragon-products.com/prod...944bk19gck.htm ,and if you are doing this it wouldn't hurt to change the control arm bushings to delrin http://www.paragon-products.com/product_p/mc-8000d.htm
Wait,if you want coil-overs at this point why don't you also get camber plates http://www.paragon-products.com/Camb...re_mc-3500.htm .Where do the OEM parts fit in this story?
the one catastrophe seems to be these upper strut mounts/plates.... like 580 per side
#30
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thanks again this is awesome.
i'm wondering if anyone knows how to set this all up anywhere (so it doesn't come out all eeffed up and i can just drive her in for alignment)
i'm already running big blacks with adaptors.... anywhere in the midwest would be fine,...
otherwise i made a very nice discovery today finding significantly lower prices on these parts.
lower control arms @ $ 520.00 per side at Pelican were $450.0 per side at Zimms. same 0EM part.
OEM Rear Mount with Bushing for Front Suspension Control Arm @ $ 95.75 per side at pelican. about ten bucks more at the dealer and $ 50.00 per side at Zimms... complete set of sway bar bushings 42 bucks... and on to complete tie rods w outer ends. like $ 82.00 per side.
pair of OEM front struts $ 530.00....
the one catastrophe seems to be these upper strut mounts/plates.... like $ 580.00 per side. the 944 part is like pennies on the dollar compared...
WTF SHOULD I DO ?? change to 944 ?
i'm gonna start a thread over at the 968 forums. see if i can locate an installer. thanks a trillion.
/
i'm wondering if anyone knows how to set this all up anywhere (so it doesn't come out all eeffed up and i can just drive her in for alignment)
i'm already running big blacks with adaptors.... anywhere in the midwest would be fine,...
otherwise i made a very nice discovery today finding significantly lower prices on these parts.
lower control arms @ $ 520.00 per side at Pelican were $450.0 per side at Zimms. same 0EM part.
OEM Rear Mount with Bushing for Front Suspension Control Arm @ $ 95.75 per side at pelican. about ten bucks more at the dealer and $ 50.00 per side at Zimms... complete set of sway bar bushings 42 bucks... and on to complete tie rods w outer ends. like $ 82.00 per side.
pair of OEM front struts $ 530.00....
the one catastrophe seems to be these upper strut mounts/plates.... like $ 580.00 per side. the 944 part is like pennies on the dollar compared...
WTF SHOULD I DO ?? change to 944 ?
i'm gonna start a thread over at the 968 forums. see if i can locate an installer. thanks a trillion.
/