Skip

[quote]Originally posted by Robby:
<strong>Skip- you do know I was kidding about the "headache" thing I hope(?). Actually, it was meant as more of a compliment, as you had mentioned so many different options... <hr></blockquote></strong>

I knew you were kidding, but my wife is usually serious. Honestly, whenever she's having trouble sleeping, she asks me to explain something in detail <img src="graemlins/sleep.gif" border="0" alt="[sleep]" /> Conversely, whenever I want her to go away, I do the same thing. <img src="graemlins/oops.gif" border="0" alt="[oops]" />

[quote]<strong>But, you said something about caster blocks- I bought the 968 ones, but haven't installed them- I was referring to the front strut bushing- the big ones that you can see when you open the hood- they are what the strut brace would rest on- maybe I termed it wrong(?)- would it hurt the ride to change those w/spherical bearings or the adjustable mounts?</strong><hr></blockquote>

I'm not sure what the advantage is to those - I assume they have less or harder rubber. It wouldn't "hurt" to go all-metal, but it will transmit more of the road to the chassis. Something I rather enjoy - though, some do not.

Skip

K27

Ian, you know my setup and you saw the car last weekend.
When we hit the Duffy lake section of road the surface has become pretty undulated and winter worn, As this is the first time out on that section since completing the suspension I fully expected the car to come unglued on the rough sections.
I was pleasantly surprised at the way the car handled this road. We were pushing very hard and the car was as neuteral as I could wish for, never even felt nervous on some really rough turns at high speed.
I think my plan of going to #600's next year would not allow me to drive this road, but the #350's were excellent.
If you want, on sunday you can take my car for a spin.
Lance

IanM

Thanks Lance - It will be great to actually feel what 350# springs translate to in terms of overall performance and ride quality.

Skip - Thanks for all your great input. I hope to see you on Sunday. I promise not to spend the whole time picking your brain regarding suspension upgrades

Jason @ Paragon Products

[quote]said B would have a larger range than K- meaning that while K has more range due to adj, their range at any one adjustment is less than B overall range. Ex: to get K as compliant as B, I'd set them soft- at soft setting, car would be soft for bumps, but wouldn't be as tight or flat on smooth ground and vice versa- at least that's how I understood him- may be wrong. He said B is monotube & K is twin, that mono is slightly more versitile for street apps. Again, I'm not claiming this myself, AND, I MAY be misquoting slightly, so if I'm wrong, please do not jump on him for it...
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Ok, a couple of things, given that ride quality is a consideration, a twin tube low pressure gas shock will generally produce a better ride quality. The high pressure gas in monotube shocks (of any manufacture) will act as additional spring rate and stiffen the ride. That stiffer ride is primarily noticed by giving feedback on small inputs that wouldn't be noticed on a low pressure gas shock. Most of you know that we're Koni guys, but I certainly respect Bilstein as a good product. No shock is magic...it can't be all things at all times. A non-adjustable shock is just that...what you get is what you get. Koni's adjustment typically gives 100% increase in forces from full soft to full stiff. The idea that shocks "self adjust" is a bit of creative marketing...even your $5 Wal-Mart special shock will "self adjust" to piston speed. Koni has always taken the approach of building a shock to it's intended application hence their use of twin tube hydraulic, twin tube low pressure gas and monotube high pressure gas. If you want a no compromises double adjustable race shock you can consider the new 2817/2812 setup.