Unknown problem, cant find an answer :(
#16
Instructor
The cutoff at a certain rpm makes it sound like a barn door slide issue. I would pull the cover off at the afm and check it out. If that's it you can fix it. I once had a bad electrical connection at the afm plug that was causing a stutter so check that out too.
Another idea would be to check the clearance at the speed & ref sensors. Or what if one of those sensors is weak? I would not think that's the problem but I would at least check it out.
How about a weak connection in the DME (solder joint).
Just throwing ideas out.
Another idea would be to check the clearance at the speed & ref sensors. Or what if one of those sensors is weak? I would not think that's the problem but I would at least check it out.
How about a weak connection in the DME (solder joint).
Just throwing ideas out.
#18
Racer
Thread Starter
I've re-read this thread and noted the starting dificulty.
I'd also be inclined to check out your fuel injectors. Wouldn't hurt to have them cleaned and their spray pattern checked. Include the cold start injector if there is one fitted.
If you do a fuel pressure check it might highlight a poor delivery problem at high demand but my money is still on the ignition system.
Have you checked the entire vacumn system for leaks ?
I'd also be inclined to check out your fuel injectors. Wouldn't hurt to have them cleaned and their spray pattern checked. Include the cold start injector if there is one fitted.
If you do a fuel pressure check it might highlight a poor delivery problem at high demand but my money is still on the ignition system.
Have you checked the entire vacumn system for leaks ?
I have not checked any of those and will check them as soon as I can. Before the harness replacement I had starting problems but the stuttering and hesitations came about afterwards.
#19
On my 951 I had two problems that were both solved by putting in new Speed/Reference sensors.
1. Randomly would not start at times from anywhere between 5 minutes to an hour. (no tach bounce when cranking)
2. When pushing hard on the highway, power would cut out momentarily around 5K rpms.
No other symptoms.
1. Randomly would not start at times from anywhere between 5 minutes to an hour. (no tach bounce when cranking)
2. When pushing hard on the highway, power would cut out momentarily around 5K rpms.
No other symptoms.
#20
Racer
Thread Starter
On my 951 I had two problems that were both solved by putting in new Speed/Reference sensors.
1. Randomly would not start at times from anywhere between 5 minutes to an hour. (no tach bounce when cranking)
2. When pushing hard on the highway, power would cut out momentarily around 5K rpms.
No other symptoms.
1. Randomly would not start at times from anywhere between 5 minutes to an hour. (no tach bounce when cranking)
2. When pushing hard on the highway, power would cut out momentarily around 5K rpms.
No other symptoms.
Is it a quick and east fix? Did you have hesitation in mid RPM range in low gears?
#21
I didn't have any other symptoms. Reaching the sensors on my 951 was easy enough with a u-joint on a looong extension. I just took out the sensors, not the bracket for them. Don't touch or accidentally loosen the bracket for the sensors or else you have to re-set the depth of the sensors. I just popped out the old sensors, and popped in the new ones without needing to adjust anything.
Actually, one of the two sensors I believe is the culprit, but they're identical so I just replaced both.
Actually, one of the two sensors I believe is the culprit, but they're identical so I just replaced both.
#22
Racer
Thread Starter
I didn't have any other symptoms. Reaching the sensors on my 951 was easy enough with a u-joint on a looong extension. I just took out the sensors, not the bracket for them. Don't touch or accidentally loosen the bracket for the sensors or else you have to re-set the depth of the sensors. I just popped out the old sensors, and popped in the new ones without needing to adjust anything.
Actually, one of the two sensors I believe is the culprit, but they're identical so I just replaced both.
Actually, one of the two sensors I believe is the culprit, but they're identical so I just replaced both.
Thanks for the info
#24
Racer
Thread Starter
#25
I don't understand how it could hit like a wall but keep climbing to redline. Anyway, the problems are very similar. Worth a shot to try to try new sensors. Can always return them.
#26
Burning Brakes
if you are going to do this I would strongly advise you to cover all the openings in the clutch bellhousing with gaffa tape first. There are plenty of members that have dropped nuts, sockets and spanners into their bellhousing .!
If the sensors are oxidised and stuck in the housing you are going to end up in a right fix because its such a pita to get at the b$%&* things
I would do the sensor test outlined on Clarkes first and establish beyond a doubt that your sensors are no good first. All they are is a simple magnet ! not much can go wrong with a magnet to be honest
#27
If you're having a misfire at 5500 rpm, it is quite likely that you have a broken valve spring. Unfortunately, you have to remove the camshaft housing to find it. Just push down on each valve and the one that moves with only thumb pressure is the culprit.
If you use either the compressed air or the rope in the cylinder method, you can replace the spring without removing the head.
If you use either the compressed air or the rope in the cylinder method, you can replace the spring without removing the head.
#28
Racer
Thread Starter
If you're having a misfire at 5500 rpm, it is quite likely that you have a broken valve spring. Unfortunately, you have to remove the camshaft housing to find it. Just push down on each valve and the one that moves with only thumb pressure is the culprit.
If you use either the compressed air or the rope in the cylinder method, you can replace the spring without removing the head.
If you use either the compressed air or the rope in the cylinder method, you can replace the spring without removing the head.
#29
Burning Brakes
do a compression test first ! it may not be conclusive but should indicate a leaky valve if a spring had bust. I'm not convinced myself. I think you would get some symptoms long before the engine reached the red line