Jack Cheetham

All is normal at cold startup for 20 miles. When accelerating under load the oil light (and park brake light of course) glows but if you coast the light goes out, RPM does not matter. Finally after about 30 miles light is on constant. Oil light stays on and lifter noise. If you start up cold and warm it up you can watch the oil gage take a dip once warm, almost like the oil cooler thermostat starts to open and blocks off oil pressure to head and oil cooler. I bought car not running and have fixed many items, runs like a top. I have an 86 Red Black 2.4 cream puff but no compairsion to the S2. I rebuilt the 2.4 so very familar with engine and very experienced motor head. I pulled OPRV and also Oil Pressure regualtor valve in head, look to be fine, cleaned and replaced o rings. After warm up same deal, no change. The S2 oil cooler thremostat control is my next suspect as I do not feel any heat in oil lines to cooler. Any one have experience with this trip? No I have not looked at oil pickup because I get plenty of oil pressure when cold to normal operating temp. Running 10-30 wt here in Seattle. I can start in morning and drive to work and back no issue. Get it on the road and hot different story. When started cold lifter tick for about 2 minutes and then very quite. Pretty weird. OK motor heads what is it? All comments appreciated. Oil pressureless in Seattle. 1989 S2, 148K,

John_AZ

Quote: "When started cold lifer tick for about 2 minutes"
Quote: " I get plenty of oil pressure when cold to normal operating temp."
Quote: "Finally after about 30 miles (oil) light is on constant. Oil light stays on and lifter noise."
Quote: "Running 10-30 wt here in Seattle.

Before I tell you to remove the oil pan and check the oil pickup and change the rod bearings.....

Basics..
EDIT: Check the crank bolt for proper torque.
What brand of oil filter do you use? Only Mahle, K&N or OEM Porsche have a good oil anti drain valve.
10-30 oil? With a car at 148K, you should try a thicker Valvoline Racing Oil with a lot of ZDDP.

OPRV-get a different valve and test. Did you replace 2 "O" rings in the OPRV? Did you clean the OPRV completely? I mean really take it apart and clean it, not just wipe with a rag. See attached picture. Did you install it with the correct OPRV alignment tool?
Remove the oil cooler housing and look into the block and check to see if an old "O" ring from the OPRV is not blocking the oil galley. Flush and pressure check the oil cooler.

Oil Pump. You may have a worn out oil pump.

Quess what? Change the rod bearings.

Photo credit to hotblack944

Jack Cheetham

I confess, I did not separate the OPRV like your picture. I actually pulled on it pretty hard but did not separate. Yes I am a clean freak so clean is clean. No I do not have an alignment tool, was not sure needed one for the later valve in an S2. Tell me how you separated the valve please? PS I only look at this informative fourm late in evening so may take a few days to cycle back. The tick at cold start is only heard when I have run it hot with oil pressure light on earlier.

Jack Cheetham

What about the oil temp thermostat? Rod bearings are an easy task but I hear nothing, the LS6 in my street rod knocks when cold but the S2 is very quite even with low oil pressure. Is rod bearings a common problem? I have a Mahle filter. I used impact on crank bolt but have not locked and torqued. Seems like the most stress on oil pump is when oil is cold, just cant believe the gear can spin on pump. Ditto on a bad pickup.

John_AZ

Lock the flywheel and do a proper torque on the crank bolt.

Pelican has a replacement oil temperature sending unit if you have the VDO dash guage. $10

On your '89 S2 the OPRV alignment tool is vital to prevent binding. You have to buy or borrow the tool to get the OPRV in the exact position. Get a new crush washer and 2 "O" rings.

Rod bearings are not fun to replace and the oil pan gasket can be difficult.

Here is the TSB on the OPRV.

Jack Cheetham

I like the TBS, thanks.

The S2 has a oil temperature sliding port mixing valve in the housing between oil filter and block. I was interested in it as I had read that it could be the cause of the oil pressure freakey operation. I will torque the crank bolt but cannot believe that would be the cause. The engine is all original in the short block end so was not concerned with using an alignment tool if I had not distrubed cover. Vlave moves in and out easly. Thanks for the information.