Jonathan Martini

I know the drain plug issue has been resolved, but I just thought everyone would like to know a good way to get the oil filter off. I use one of the oil wrenches that fits over the top of the filter with an attachment for a 1/2" socket.

The problem I first ran into is that it never seems to be a great fit and was always slipping.

Solution: take your favorite duct tape and tape it to the inside. Actually tape half the width to the inside and fold the other half inward, simulating double sided duct tape.

This along with an extention for the wrench this will get the oil filter off in about ten seconds or less. You still have to put shop towels or plastic bags around to catch the oil, however.

Cheers.

IceShark

$100 for an oil change?! Hope your rates for doing the website work were pretty fat.

Punching a hole in the oil filter won't do much good in draining the oil back if you are using the proper Mahle oil filter. It has backflow preventers so the oil doesn't drain out and present the motor with a few seconds of no oil pressure when it is started.

A trick to make the filter removal a little cleaner is to use a plastic grocery bag (with no holes in the bottom). Work the bag down to the filter base, unscrew the filter like crazy and flop the filter in the bag quick. Then you can take your time fishing the filter out. Having a cap style socket sure makes things easier.

Dave in Chicago

Magnus gave the hot set up. Those black plastic Rhino ramps fit nice for me. Front of the car on ramps, oil/filter, flush brakes/clutch... Neat as can be and no scare jacks holding up 3047 lbs while I'm under it.

I agree it's of little use to put a hole in the filter, tried it, still dumped lots of oil. I prefer to remove the undertray and stuff rags up in there to catch/wipe the oil away.

Filter wrench (fits on the end) is a must. Don't need to tighten them as much as you might think either.

Note that there is a torque spec for the drain plug. I'm a nut about torque, so I always do it with a torque wrench (mine is 37 ft.lbs.).

Old cardboard boxes under the car is the ticket. You can slide around on them, they're absorbent, and (if still clean) reusable.

Keep the shiny side up,

Outlaw952

Hey Kerry, I live here in Pflugerville, and I'm also a part of HCRPCA (just not very active at the moment). Anyway, if its giving you too much trouble, just shoot me an email, and I'll come over to help ya and give you some tips....

BTW guys, Moorespeed is just about as good as it gets in this region. And you have to remember, 7 qts of a good "race quality" synthetic plus a filter can cost $75 or so. Then add labor.

Chris

chris2b@swbell.net

Matt O.

I wouldn't jack the car up. You don't need to, even if it's lowered (which mine is), just reach under there. If you jack it up then it's possible that not all the oil will drain out and when you add more you will overpressurize the system.

Good luck,
Matt

83 TX 944

Kerry, I also live in Austin, on the opposite end of town from outlaw952 near Buda and am offering to lend assistance to you. I had to break out the impact gun to get my oil plug off, thank goodness for air tools. Drop me a note if I can help out. Maybe one weekend we can all get together and run the twisties on the westside. <img src="graemlins/xyxwave.gif" border="0" alt="[bigbye]" />

txhedg

[quote]Originally posted by kwatson:
<strong>I am too embarassed to post this on my USUAL car list. Can't remember how to change her own oil? What kind of a car wench is this??? No respect for her!!!
</strong><hr></blockquote>

You mean you didn't want me to copy your post over to the HCR board.

BTW, give Kerry a break....she may not have known where the drain plug was, she's still a bit slow around TWS, and sometimes she asks too many questions , but I bet she knows more about autobody work than most anyone else on this board and has been a good ambassador to try to get more females involved in PCA and track stuff, in particular, which IMHO is a good thing.

Tom

Regarding using a screwdriver to lever the oil filter, you can merely succeed in tearing up the oil filter, leaving the threaded section in the car which is then undriveable. Always make sure the filter is loosened before punching holes in it!

Re: the drain plug It shouldn't be that tight. Remember it's threaded into aluminium or plastic and both of those materials can be stripped fairly easily <img src="graemlins/c.gif" border="0" alt="[ouch]" />

P944forScott

Well I'm a fan of the jack stand method, makes it so much easier. Good time to get all the way under and inspect for leaks, loose suspension, etc. Take the car off the jack stands and fill with oil. I don't worry about what might be left in the engine, some of us change the oil so often I don't think it is a issue.
Ramps are cool if it makes you feel safer.
You go girl!
<img src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" />

DangerIsland

[quote]Originally posted by Matt R. Olde:
<strong>I wouldn't jack the car up. You don't need to, even if it's lowered (which mine is), just reach under there. If you jack it up then it's possible that not all the oil will drain out and when you add more you will overpressurize the system.

Good luck,
Matt</strong><hr></blockquote>

This confuses me. How would not draining all the oil lead to overpressurization? I know you should drain it all, obviously, but as long as you check the level when it's flat again, what's the problem?

83na944

I've never actually tried the hole in the filter method.

However I have used a double sheet of aluminum foil to keep the oil off the suspension bushings. Just mold the foil into a spout and place it below the filter. If you do it right, most of the oil runs into the pan below.

Mike C.

On the oil change thread, if, like me, you often forget to buy a new drain plug washer, the old one can be easily rehabilitated with a piece of 300 grit (or so) emery on a flat surface. Sand both sides in a figure 8 pattern to get rid of the ridges. I also jack the car up a bit on the driver's side to be able to reach under there. This tilts the engine towards the drain plug so all of the oil comes out. When installing the drain plug, I use a 15mm standard size box end wrench. Don't over tighten the steel plug into the aluminum pan (unless you want to practice using a heli coil kit).

Edward1

Hi

In my book, any gal that will roll up her sleeves and want to change the oil in her automobile deserves a big high five. <img src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" />


Edward

jason952

[quote]Originally posted by 83na944:
<strong>I recently read a tip on changing the filter: punch a hole in the end of the filter before loosening it. This is supposed to let the oil drain into the pan, minimizing the oil in the filter when it is removed.
</strong><hr></blockquote>

It's a good thought, but it sho' don't work!

Gee, looks like it's also time for the change in the X5, since I found out the dealer won't do it until the lights say so which is ~15K, Unreal!'

Jason

led

[quote]This confuses me. How would not draining all the oil lead to overpressurization? I know you should drain it all, obviously, but as long as you check the level when it's flat again, what's the problem?<hr></blockquote> I think what Matt means is that if you add oil to a pan thats not entirely empty you'll end up with more oil in it than is required. I guess more oil in the system can cause extra pressure.