To load or not to load...that is the question.
09-19-2002, 02:50 PM
#1
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To load or not to load...that is the question.
I'm getting ready to install new Koni Yellow Sport rear shocks on the car. I reviewed the procedure at Paragon's website, checked the archives, and took a look at Koni's "pictograms" that came in the package.
The one thing that I am still uncertain about is whether the rear suspension should be loaded or unloaded when actually changing out the shocks.
The Koni sheet seems to specifically make the point that the rear tires should be on a flat level surface (i.e. suspension loaded). However, several previous posts to this forum have mentioned that removing the rear wheels will improve clearance for the top mounting bolt (i.e. suspension unloaded).
The only compromise that I can think of is removing the rear wheels, supporting the car by the frame, and "loading" the suspension by placing a jack under lower shock mounting point in the trailing arm. This would place tension on the torsion bar, and would raise the trailing arm from its full low position.
Thoughts & comments please...I don't want to hurt myself or the car!
The one thing that I am still uncertain about is whether the rear suspension should be loaded or unloaded when actually changing out the shocks.
The Koni sheet seems to specifically make the point that the rear tires should be on a flat level surface (i.e. suspension loaded). However, several previous posts to this forum have mentioned that removing the rear wheels will improve clearance for the top mounting bolt (i.e. suspension unloaded).
The only compromise that I can think of is removing the rear wheels, supporting the car by the frame, and "loading" the suspension by placing a jack under lower shock mounting point in the trailing arm. This would place tension on the torsion bar, and would raise the trailing arm from its full low position.
Thoughts & comments please...I don't want to hurt myself or the car!
09-19-2002, 03:01 PM
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[quote]Originally posted by tt9714:
<strong>The only compromise that I can think of is removing the rear wheels, supporting the car by the frame, and "loading" the suspension by placing a jack under lower shock mounting point in the trailing arm. This would place tension on the torsion bar, and would raise the trailing arm from its full low position.</strong><hr></blockquote>
Ding, ding, ding - we have a weiner... uhh, WINNER! <img src="graemlins/bigok.gif" border="0" alt="[thumbsup]" />
Good Luck!
<strong>The only compromise that I can think of is removing the rear wheels, supporting the car by the frame, and "loading" the suspension by placing a jack under lower shock mounting point in the trailing arm. This would place tension on the torsion bar, and would raise the trailing arm from its full low position.</strong><hr></blockquote>
Ding, ding, ding - we have a weiner... uhh, WINNER! <img src="graemlins/bigok.gif" border="0" alt="[thumbsup]" />
Good Luck!
09-19-2002, 03:03 PM
#3
Race Director
[quote]Originally posted by tt9714:
<strong>The only compromise that I can think of is removing the rear wheels, supporting the car by the frame, and "loading" the suspension by placing a jack under lower shock mounting point in the trailing arm. This would place tension on the torsion bar, and would raise the trailing arm from its full low position.
</strong><hr></blockquote>
This is close... You want to remove the tires since it makes it much easier to access the upper shock mount bolt from inside the wheel well.
You need to have some load on the suspension to ensure that the bolt pins are not loaded to install remove the shock.
Best way to do this is to suppot the car with jack stands and then use a floor jack to compress the suspension just enough to free-up the shock bolts.
<strong>The only compromise that I can think of is removing the rear wheels, supporting the car by the frame, and "loading" the suspension by placing a jack under lower shock mounting point in the trailing arm. This would place tension on the torsion bar, and would raise the trailing arm from its full low position.
</strong><hr></blockquote>
This is close... You want to remove the tires since it makes it much easier to access the upper shock mount bolt from inside the wheel well.
You need to have some load on the suspension to ensure that the bolt pins are not loaded to install remove the shock.
Best way to do this is to suppot the car with jack stands and then use a floor jack to compress the suspension just enough to free-up the shock bolts.
09-19-2002, 03:04 PM
#4
Burning Brakes
The compromise solution is the best, i believe. When changing mine, i took off the tire, and removed the shock. If i did not have the trailing arm supported with a jack, it would expand until the CV joint was resting on the exhaust. Not a good thing. Also, the other side didn't have the exhaust to run into, but it would definately stretch the CV joints farther then they would ever go on the street, or even jacked up for that matter as the shocks prevent them from going 'too far'.
The Haynes manual sorta describes the whole techinque, but i still screwed up up and stripped out a bolt, so here's the right way.
1. Jack up car and support
2. Take off tire
3. Jack up trailing arm partway
4. Using another jack, this time under the lower shock mounting point, begin to put pressure on the shock
5. Continue jacking up on the shock until the bolt slides easily out.
My mistake was in #5. I got impatient and didn't think the bolt would ever come out. I banged it out with a hammer. Bad move.
This works because the tension is taken off the lower shock mounting point. The rest of the suspension is still trying to press down onto the jack, and you can take the tension off the shock with the other jack.
Good luck,you'll love the new shocks, and i hope some of this made sense. <img src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" />
The Haynes manual sorta describes the whole techinque, but i still screwed up up and stripped out a bolt, so here's the right way.
1. Jack up car and support
2. Take off tire
3. Jack up trailing arm partway
4. Using another jack, this time under the lower shock mounting point, begin to put pressure on the shock
5. Continue jacking up on the shock until the bolt slides easily out.
My mistake was in #5. I got impatient and didn't think the bolt would ever come out. I banged it out with a hammer. Bad move.
This works because the tension is taken off the lower shock mounting point. The rest of the suspension is still trying to press down onto the jack, and you can take the tension off the shock with the other jack.
Good luck,you'll love the new shocks, and i hope some of this made sense. <img src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" />
09-19-2002, 03:50 PM
#5
Drifting
Just wanted to add that there's a washer for the upper shock nut. When I removed the nut, I just pulled the bolt out of the other side not knowing that there was a washer up there too. When I finally realized there should be a washer, I searched all around the ground and couldn't find it. I then got under the car and blindly felt around the upper surfaces of the suspension and finally found it laying on the trailing arm.
<img src="graemlins/c.gif" border="0" alt="[ouch]" />
<img src="graemlins/c.gif" border="0" alt="[ouch]" />
