ian

Ok, well my idea for keeping my torsion bars in the car and running my leda's as helper coil-overs is just not going to work because 700 lb springs is a little much (for now anyway).

So my new question is what is the best way to remove the torsion bars (keep in mind that I don't have to put them back in, I am just removing them and going to complete coil over in back).

Can I take off the end caps for the torsion bars and cut the old torsion bars in pieces to get them out? It sounds crude but I don't need the torsion bar, they have 160K on them and i'm sure they are very tired.

If not does anyone have any helpfull hint for this project?

Thanks again...

M758

I figure you can cut the end cap off and then pull the bars out intact. Of course you end caps will be destroyed and you will need plug the holes to prevent junk from getting in there. You will also need cut the external sheet metal to get the bars out of the car.

The problem is that I believe that this assembly gets "loose" without the bars and often guys put in special bushings to add back some stiffness.

Skip

Honestly, you're not saving much time and effort by wrecking the torsion carrier, etc - might as well drop the whole thing. Also, there are bushings that must be maintained for the assembly to rotate correctly - have a good look at the FSM before cutting anything. Also, cutting the torsion carrier is irreversible (relative to complete replacement)... cutting the torsion bars will not be so easy.

The common consensus on removing T-bars is to replace the bushings with either metal bearings or at least Delrin on the inner and outer.

Why not get softer springs?

Good Luck!

ian

Ahh well, I guess i'll have to do things the hard way, no biggie, I have three weeks before the new front strut gets here from england to figure out how to drop the rear suspension.

David Salama

I personally removed the torsion bars following the recommended instructions. Borrowing a friends lift did help . I have been extremely happy with my Bilstein coilovers and I did not change any bushings. I have tracked the car a few times since the change over and have not noticed any ill effects or "looseness". The reason I wanted to remove the t-bars was two fold. First, I'll never have to mesh with it again to adjust my ride height or spring rate. Second, I did not want a "progressive" spring rate you get from using two "springs", the bar and the helper spring. Huntley tells me that you could feel the transition to the helper spring half way into the corner. I was looking for something that is stiff all the time.

Alan C.

Just got an update from Lex at Moton and my modified Motons will be here in time for my next event. Thsnk you Lex! I've decided to go the spring/torsion bar route for now. 650 lb front and 400 lb. rear.

This Winter I may get into removing the torsion bars and re-doing the rear. It currently has 30 mm bars in back.

Alan