Brake Pipe Blues
03-22-2003, 05:57 PM
#1
Track Day
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Brake Pipe Blues
So, the steel brake pipes on my 85/1 944 are more than a tad rusty. The fronts aren't really a problem, but at the rear? Not nice! Fortunately, the long front to rear is okay, but the pipe across the rear connecting the two flexy hoses looks a real b*****d and is rotted at the end where it leaves the splitter. Now, it goes up over the gearshift linkage - okay, I can probably wangle and twist the pipe up and over - but it seems to be held up there by something right at the top. Has anyone done this job? Is there a clip holding it up there? Is there an easy way to get at it? Help, please!
I'm making up my own pipework btw - got a flaring tool and nice new screw ends - and I'm using some pipe called Kunifer (CuNiFe, Copper/Nickel/Iron) which is a lot stiffer than pure copper so doesn't need extra support but doesn't rust like steel...
I'm making up my own pipework btw - got a flaring tool and nice new screw ends - and I'm using some pipe called Kunifer (CuNiFe, Copper/Nickel/Iron) which is a lot stiffer than pure copper so doesn't need extra support but doesn't rust like steel...
03-25-2003, 07:53 AM
#3
Nordschleife Master
I recall one fellow that was thinking about it and there was a discussion about what tubing to use. Steel or a copper alloy like you are thinking.
You are pretty much out on your lone trail, Simon.
You are pretty much out on your lone trail, Simon.
03-25-2003, 12:32 PM
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Track Day
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</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Originally posted by IceShark:
<strong>You are pretty much out on your lone trail, Simon.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Oh well...
I'll have to take a few photos as I do the work - anyone interested?
<strong>You are pretty much out on your lone trail, Simon.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Oh well...
I'll have to take a few photos as I do the work - anyone interested?
03-25-2003, 01:11 PM
#5
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I've done a good quantity of hard line work, but not on my 944. The lines may be available pre-bent from Porsche. If not, get yourself a good tube bender along with a good double flaring tool. Practice flaring, it's not that tough but you don't want to me practicing on your final results. You must always use flare fittings on brake lines, compression fittings won't hold the pressure.
Pull the old hard line, then make your new one to match. The bender is essential to make smooth radius turns without crushing the tubing.
Getting to the clips and such can be a pain in the butt, the hard lines were almost surely installed before the drivetrain. Good luck!
Pull the old hard line, then make your new one to match. The bender is essential to make smooth radius turns without crushing the tubing.
Getting to the clips and such can be a pain in the butt, the hard lines were almost surely installed before the drivetrain. Good luck!
03-25-2003, 01:18 PM
#6
Nordschleife Master
Simon, I'd be interested as I'm keeping the car until I die so will probably have to replace one day.
I'd also be interested in how the Kunifer works out. We usually use steel on this side of the pond but I think Kunifer may be a good solution that doesn't rust so bad.
I'd also be interested in how the Kunifer works out. We usually use steel on this side of the pond but I think Kunifer may be a good solution that doesn't rust so bad.
03-25-2003, 04:17 PM
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you may be better off calling some of the used porsche parts places; <a href="http://www.partsheave.com" target="_blank">Parts Heaven</a> or <a href="http://www.pap-parts.com" target="_blank">PAP</a> to find a used brake line. the problem is that the rear lines are very long, and bend in all different directions.
if you still want to make some brake lines, find a custom/hotrod shop. they do that type of work alot more than we do. getting someone to make a hard line for you shouldn't be too $$$, but its hard to find someone with the experience needed to do a good job.
I would also recommend to check out some hotrod and/or kit car magazines.
if you still want to make some brake lines, find a custom/hotrod shop. they do that type of work alot more than we do. getting someone to make a hard line for you shouldn't be too $$$, but its hard to find someone with the experience needed to do a good job.
I would also recommend to check out some hotrod and/or kit car magazines.
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03-25-2003, 07:55 PM
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Good advice from Ed, and yes I'ld like to see your photos.
BTW A cheap tubing bender is available at Harbor Freight (~10$). And just so we don't overlook the obvious, tubing can be bought in "standard lengths" (already terminated) at almost any auto parts store. Up to something like 6 feet. I found fittings are of either metric or SAE and have gone with this option several times. It eliminates some of the learning for the double flares. Last one was a VW so prospects seem good that this is a viable option for Porsche. Just my .02$...Bruce
BTW A cheap tubing bender is available at Harbor Freight (~10$). And just so we don't overlook the obvious, tubing can be bought in "standard lengths" (already terminated) at almost any auto parts store. Up to something like 6 feet. I found fittings are of either metric or SAE and have gone with this option several times. It eliminates some of the learning for the double flares. Last one was a VW so prospects seem good that this is a viable option for Porsche. Just my .02$...Bruce
03-25-2003, 11:05 PM
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I replaced my flexible lines last summer. As I recall the hard lines are held to the frame with clips. Check the prices for new lines at the dealer. It may not be worth the effort to get the tools and line.
I couldn't tell any difference with the SS wrapped flex lines. I replaced them because they were 20 years old and I was rebuilding the calipers and replacing the rotors.
The new HAWK ferrocarbon pads REALLY make a difference though. Smooth with a real boost in stopping power.
I couldn't tell any difference with the SS wrapped flex lines. I replaced them because they were 20 years old and I was rebuilding the calipers and replacing the rotors.
The new HAWK ferrocarbon pads REALLY make a difference though. Smooth with a real boost in stopping power.
