tdatk944+S4

You might want to re-check the t-belt tension and ensure that it is actually turning the water pump . I would leave the t-belt cover off and ensure that the new pump is turning.

JM .02
Tim

tazman

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Originally posted by billybones:
<strong>If you can hear the fluid running thru the core, it has air in it. Air makes the noise. not solid fluid. Any air in this system will cause an overheat. or higher temp's</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Yeah I know but the lower hose does not warm up on my car so I think it won't bleed properly because the thermostat is not opening?? That is my best guess I can't see an air pocket at the thermostat on my car because I did not drain the engine at all. I have bled my cooling sytem with the front of the car higher then the rear but I don't let the temp gauge go higher then the last white mark could that be what I am doing wrong?

billybones

The car is up to temp when the fans turn on. And the heater is on full blast and the car is at least on a curb.. That opens up the whole system. anything less is iffy at best. This takes 15 to 20 minutes on my car in 70 degree heat. because there isn't coolant every where in the system the gauge may actually top out. I take the bleeder out and leave the cap off and fill everything that I can. pump both hoses at first, keep doing that every few minutes as it heats up Till the fans come on. Like I said before till the fans come on you ain't hot enough...That has worked for me.

billybones

The lower hose would get hot if the coolant was not circulating. Think about it. The temp would be the same on both sides of the Radiator if it was not being cooled by ciculation.

Kevin Baker

The hot water stays in the block if the t-stat doesn't open, true if the t-stat is closed BOTH hoses would be cool b/c all the water and thus heat is in the block.

tazman

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Originally posted by billybones:
<strong>The lower hose would get hot if the coolant was not circulating. Think about it. The temp would be the same on both sides of the Radiator if it was not being cooled by ciculation.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">I guess that depends on which direction the coolant flows through the water pump!

Thanks for the tips I will try to bleed my car again tomorrow before I do anything with the thermostat.

I did this before with no problems I guess I just got lucky.

tazman

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Originally posted by Kevin Baker:
<strong>The hot water stays in the block if the t-stat doesn't open, true if the t-stat is closed BOTH hoses would be cool b/c all the water and thus heat is in the block.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">But it can still circulate through the turbo thermostat. But I don't know how much of the system this would heat up??

Justin Browning

Assuming if the headgasket is gone, would there be coolant in any of the cylinders? Just need to know to if that would be a quick and accurate check.

Justin Browning

Well, upon further inspection of the hoses, I found that the coolant expansion tank to radiator hose has a small hole in it from what looks like where the alternator's fins rubbed up against it. That would definately cause a lack of pressure and cause the car to overheat, correct?

mark944turbo

I am also getting closer to finding my problem. I just took a 5 minute drive and after about 5 minutes the coolant temp guage was at the top white line. At this point the fans did NOT turn on. Turning on the heater had no effect on anything. Is the sensor that feeds the temp guage a different one than the one that feeds the fan on/off switch? What could my problem be at this point?

tazman

Mark about the only thing I can answer for you is that there are two different sensors. The one for the gauge is on the engine and the one for the fans is on the radiator.

I bled my car some more today and the thermostat opened. The bottom hose got firm that I could not squeeze it together like I could before. I still have a fan problem though the first fan will not come on by itself even using a jumper wire like described on Clark's site. I got a used relay from Ian 944online.com I guess I will bench test it like I did my old one to see if I can find a fault with it.

Thanks for all the help guys <img border="0" alt="[thumbsup]" title="" src="graemlins/bigok.gif" />

tazman

Well I just checked Clark's site again I have to redo the jumper test again tomorrow. I was going by memory and I don't know what I was thinking.

Kevin Baker

Hey overheaters, how's things going?

Mark, thermo-switch in radiator, check it, or bypass it to see if the fans kick on.

Justin, yes a lack of pressure would let the temp rise, but the fans et al should still turn on at the appropriate temp. Are they?

mark944turbo

Hello again, I did some more work on the car today... I found that neither fan will kick in and the car overheats within 10 minutes while just idling. Putting on the A/C or the heat had no effect on the problem. Then I hooked up both fans directly to the battery and only the drivers side one worked. Does this mean I have a bad motor on the passenger side for sure or is there another explaination for this? So it looks like the possible problems for the drivers side fan not coming on could be the thermo switch, the relay, or an improperly bled system. I am going out again now to rebleed everything to at least eliminate that option.

Also, when I touch the radiator, it is not warm when the car is overheated. Could this be that the thermostat is stuck and not letting any hot water into the radiator?

How hard is it to set up a system that controls the fans without sensors (like with manual switches? As you can tell I dont know a lot about electricity. How would I control the two speeds? Do I need to buy some special switch? Thanks for all the help, I am sure I will solve this problem

ahofam123

After I replaced my waterpump, my temp guage was reading in the red. I relaced the thermostat again, the radiator, the sending units and the thermoswitch. After all of this, it was still reading hot. It isn't boiling and the cooling fans come on just before the guage goes into the red so I am just assuming that the guage is miscalibrated or there is a short in the wiring. Before you guys go replacing the entire cooling system, make sure that the guage is reading the correct value.