Suspension Lowering
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Suspension Lowering
I have a set of Koni sport struts up front with Weltmeister 200lb springs that have a 1 1/4" spacer installed.
I'd like to remove the spacer and lower the front (and also the rear end equally), but I'd like to get some feedback on how it will effect the ride.
My 944 is strictly for the streets (LA) and I imagine the ride will be sacrificed for better handling and I would like to see if anyone has done this and found it worth the trade off.
Regards,
Severian
I'd like to remove the spacer and lower the front (and also the rear end equally), but I'd like to get some feedback on how it will effect the ride.
My 944 is strictly for the streets (LA) and I imagine the ride will be sacrificed for better handling and I would like to see if anyone has done this and found it worth the trade off.
Regards,
Severian
#2
Race Director
ride quality will not change. Car balance in the coners will change if you don't also lower the rear.
You will need to re-align the car post lowering it as camber and toe change front and rear when lower the car. Not by alot, but you will need to redo these settings once lowered.
One issue you may have is in the rear you may only be able to lower the car 1/2" using the spring plate. How far you go depends on where the car is now. Once you max out this adjustment on rear spring place you need to pull the t-bars to get it any lower. This a big job, but once you do that you can also change the rear t-bar rate and get any ride height you desire.
You will need to re-align the car post lowering it as camber and toe change front and rear when lower the car. Not by alot, but you will need to redo these settings once lowered.
One issue you may have is in the rear you may only be able to lower the car 1/2" using the spring plate. How far you go depends on where the car is now. Once you max out this adjustment on rear spring place you need to pull the t-bars to get it any lower. This a big job, but once you do that you can also change the rear t-bar rate and get any ride height you desire.
#5
u can reindex em as long as u don't go too low. you're going to be losing suspension travel though. so it's going to hit the bumpstop if you go too low.
btw 30mm's are $295 on paragon
btw 30mm's are $295 on paragon
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#9
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Thanks to all for the feedback, I appreciate it.
I think I will go ahead with removing the spring spacers and lower the back end by the same amount.
I'll report back on the results and hopefully proved some pix.
Thanks again,
Severian
I think I will go ahead with removing the spring spacers and lower the back end by the same amount.
I'll report back on the results and hopefully proved some pix.
Thanks again,
Severian
#10
I managed to drop my rear a good 3/4 " with the eccentrics. I left the t-bars at stock postion. The eccentric bolts are EXTREMELY tight. I wound up splitting them with a Dremel to get them off. Once you lower it all the way they don't have to be that tight. Get a GOOD 4 wheel alignment after you do all that. Make sure your ball joints are in good shape and that the ball joint pins don't hit the sides of the ball joint cup.
#11
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Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Palm Bay, FL
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With my '83 i felt like the stock suspension was a bit high in the back end (I think DOT required the back bumper be that high in case of a rear end accident). I really didn't like the look of it. I dropped the back with eccentric bolts and got about 3/4 of an inch. It was enough to clean up the look without compromising the ride. I have 245/50/16s on the back and they tuck ever so slightly with just enough room so they don't rub. Front is stock height.
#12
Drifting
I managed to drop my rear a good 3/4 " with the eccentrics. I left the t-bars at stock postion. The eccentric bolts are EXTREMELY tight. I wound up splitting them with a Dremel to get them off. Once you lower it all the way they don't have to be that tight. Get a GOOD 4 wheel alignment after you do all that. Make sure your ball joints are in good shape and that the ball joint pins don't hit the sides of the ball joint cup.
#13
#15
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Yeah... it's all about a good long extension on your breaker bar to get the leverage, and a lot of jumping up and down on said bar. oh, and some cursing.
It took the better part of an afternoon to get the bolts loose on mine. (most of that time was spent thinking I was doing something wrong cause no bolt should be that tight).
It took the better part of an afternoon to get the bolts loose on mine. (most of that time was spent thinking I was doing something wrong cause no bolt should be that tight).