Problems w/ Motive Clutch Bleeding
09-17-2002, 02:55 PM
#16
Three Wheelin'
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Asheville,NC (Don't move here!!!)
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Apparently at the factory, when they built these cars, there was one piece that they just kind of 'hung in the air'... then they built the rest of the car around it. Changing that one part will require totally dismantling the whole car...;-) The 968 clutch master cylinder is close to that part, but ain't it.
Jim, hopin' that central part never goes bad....
Jim, hopin' that central part never goes bad....
09-19-2002, 05:59 AM
#17
Racer
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Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: San Jose
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Final episode on the clutch bleeding adventures (I hope it's final at least).
I went back out to check on the clutch after letting it sit for a day on the car ramps. I pushed the clutch in and the damn thing was soft for about 2-3 inches of the initial travel; definitely not the way it should be. I thought I was done, but maybe not ...
I tried to perform the manual clutch bleeding again and it just didn't remove the soft initial clutch pedal travel. Damn!
I decided to hook up the Motive power bleeder and then pressurize the system w/o any fluid in the power bleeder, essentially using it to drive any fluid into air pockets and such. The brake fluid level didn't change much when I pressurized it. I then went over to the clutch pedal and then pumped it about 5-6 times and the brake fluid level in the reservoir dropped! Apparently there was an air pocket in the master cylinder area that wasn't getting flushed out manually. After this pressurizing, I did a combination of manual clutch pedal flushing (while system was under pressure) as well as just loosening the screw and letting the fluid bleed out under pressure. The pedal felt solid with just a bit of the normal play you typically encounter when you put your foot up against the clutch pedal lightly.
I think I got it this time, but I'll have to check it tomorrow again to see if no other issues cropped up.
I guess I ended up using the method that the official Porsche repair manual recommended. Apparently you are supposed to pressurize the system and then bleed it by unscrewing the nipple. It also recommends that you pump the clutch pedal a few times in the process of bleeding the fluid while under pressure. Couldn't understand why you needed to do that until now. I guess it's suppose to remove any residual air pockets trapped in the upper part of the system (master cylinder piston ...).
*****
I went back out to check on the clutch after letting it sit for a day on the car ramps. I pushed the clutch in and the damn thing was soft for about 2-3 inches of the initial travel; definitely not the way it should be. I thought I was done, but maybe not ...
I tried to perform the manual clutch bleeding again and it just didn't remove the soft initial clutch pedal travel. Damn!
I decided to hook up the Motive power bleeder and then pressurize the system w/o any fluid in the power bleeder, essentially using it to drive any fluid into air pockets and such. The brake fluid level didn't change much when I pressurized it. I then went over to the clutch pedal and then pumped it about 5-6 times and the brake fluid level in the reservoir dropped! Apparently there was an air pocket in the master cylinder area that wasn't getting flushed out manually. After this pressurizing, I did a combination of manual clutch pedal flushing (while system was under pressure) as well as just loosening the screw and letting the fluid bleed out under pressure. The pedal felt solid with just a bit of the normal play you typically encounter when you put your foot up against the clutch pedal lightly.
I think I got it this time, but I'll have to check it tomorrow again to see if no other issues cropped up.
I guess I ended up using the method that the official Porsche repair manual recommended. Apparently you are supposed to pressurize the system and then bleed it by unscrewing the nipple. It also recommends that you pump the clutch pedal a few times in the process of bleeding the fluid while under pressure. Couldn't understand why you needed to do that until now. I guess it's suppose to remove any residual air pockets trapped in the upper part of the system (master cylinder piston ...).
*****
