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Engine Won't Run

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Old 03-10-2010, 03:28 PM
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CyCloNe!
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Default Engine Won't Run

Hey guys, I have a 1986 944 Turbo today I was driving it and it did very well I parked it for an 1hr came back turned on great drove ok... after a few moments it started jerking really bad, and when it was on idle the RPM would drop and the car would shut off. I was able to get it started and tried to make it back home since I was a few miles away.

My problems continued and they car would turn off at every stop light. I was able to get to a parking lot and looked it appeared that my oil pan was dripping slightly not heavy at all. I checked my oil and it was below really low.

I put new oil in the 944 and tried to drive it but now it won't start at all, I fear the engine may have siezed. All my temps were fine no over heating or anything, oil pressure seemed fine but I didn't look when it kept cutting off.
I noticed when I put the key in the ignition now, just to turn on the accessories, the oil pressure gauge is between 0-1 and the oil in the engine is full. I still can't get it to run, timing belt is fine, coolant is good, and it tries to start.
Any ideas?
Old 03-10-2010, 03:55 PM
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PeteL
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Reference sensors, or DME relay.
Old 03-10-2010, 04:09 PM
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Ironically I pulled the DME Relay and cleaned the terminals a little and put it back in and the car started and then shut off. So it might be wise to get a DME Relay just in case and atleast I know the engine isn't siezed since it actually started. If there's any other ideas please let me know.
Old 03-10-2010, 04:19 PM
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PeteL
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Absolutely get a new DME relay. They fail like that, where they can work, or not.
As a matter of course, some mechanics will replace the relay every 5 years.
Old 03-10-2010, 06:25 PM
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kingston944
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I even had a new relay, would not start the car till I had the new relay on an angle moving it around wiggling it . I had to replace the fuse box never had a problom since. It was cutting out before that from time to time and of cousre when I went to look for trhe problem it would always run properly till that one day when it would not run so . Good luck try moving the relay around abit . Might of only worked for me??
Old 03-11-2010, 08:58 AM
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Hey guys I'm starting to question whether its the DME Relay. I hear the fuel pump cut on and I can actually now start the car after I charged the battery a little. But it won't idle, once it hits idle is shut off, but if I apply gas is will maintain and act very sluggish. I dunno guys let me know what you think, if it's still highly probable that it's the DME I'll replace it, I wonder if it be another sensor related to the idle.
Old 03-11-2010, 10:09 AM
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That is starting make me think you have a fuel pressure regulator issue.
Old 03-11-2010, 10:22 AM
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luftpirate
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When the car stars can you get it to stay on by holding the gas down? If it is just stalling out at idle you might have a vacuum issue. Its common for the hoses in these old cars to go bad and develop leaks. You may want to go ahead an replace all your hoses if they are original just for good measure.
Old 03-11-2010, 03:29 PM
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AKCJ
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Check the AFM - look close at the slide contact (there's a vid on utube to adjust). Look at the barn door. Also check the connector for corrosion.
Old 03-11-2010, 04:03 PM
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The FPR was replaced a few months ago and has been running fine so I'll look at that later. I actually got the car to run and idle today for 5min before it shut down, after I played with the TPS and the DME relay. The TPS ohmed correctly so I assumed its ok. I looked at the vaccum lines and from what I can tell them seem fine, and most of them have been replaced a month ago but I will replace the others soon.
I guess I should check the AFM and see if that's correct and go from there. Any other ideas please let me know.
Old 03-11-2010, 07:42 PM
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Mike C.
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Is it possible you bought a bad tank of gas? Water in the gasoline can do things like this too. Throw a can or two of dry gas in there- it's a cheap way to rule it out. I'm leaning towards a large vacuum leak or a balky AFM...
Old 03-11-2010, 10:27 PM
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I ran most of the tests for the AFM and it's checking out fine. I haven't done the one yet that checks for the arm to see if it's draging inside. Tomorrow I'm going to try a DME test using emergency jumpers and ohming the relay so I can fully narrow that out.
I just find it so odd these cars can run great for a long time then you turn them on right after driving and something has failed. I guess that's the price you get with a 23yr old vehicle. I'll keep you guys posted, thanks to everyone with the input. I'll post tomorrow any of my findings.
Old 03-12-2010, 11:44 AM
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Ok guys I tried the Emergency Jumper found on clarks-garage.com and the car started and ran. I was able to drive it for a little while, then I got cocky and decided to do a medium acceleration sprint. The car then started to act a little funny and started smoking... It was a smoke between white and blue so it was a mixture of the two. I got the car back and parked it.

Later I turned the car on and let it idle and it would smoke still and my idle would be pulsing so it wasn't steady. I decided to give a little gas while in idle and the car acting as if it was going through water, restricted throttle. I played with the idle adjustment and smacked the TPS and it idled better then went back to what it was doing.

So good news... it starts... bad news still not wise to drive... Any ideas?

Right now I'm tempted to buy s new DME Relay, TPS, and any other sensor I can find. Car doesn't seem like it's flooding though, almost like it needs more gas I guess.
Old 03-12-2010, 03:25 PM
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ok more bad news.... its doesn't want to start now... I'm so confused

It still smokes when I try and start it and when it's started it had a little smoke untill you pressed on the gas, then it would have more.
Old 03-12-2010, 03:29 PM
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Head gasket maybe. Try doing a copreesion check and see what you come up with for numbers


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