door switch and battery drain
#1
door switch and battery drain
Last week I saw a post (can't find now) here that I think has solved my battery drain problem. My battery would be dead in a week or so if I didn't drive the car. I load checked the battery and found it to be OK and measured the current when the car was off ( 6 mA or 0.006A, much too small to be a problem. Very frustrating...
So this post I read mentioned that if the (driver's) door switch is faulty, some relay stays active providing power to the window lifts. Worse yet for diagnosing, if the battery is disconnected, as it would be to measure the current, the relay opens.
Sure enough my switch was faulty, staying in the door closed sense (electically open). I could run my windows days after stopping the car. I carefully removed the battery terminal while maintaining power and measured the current before I fixed the switch. It draws 86 mA (0.086 A)with the switch faulty (back to 6 mA after the fix). This is about 2 A-hr per day, so a week to 10 days is too much for an aging battery to handle.
So whoever you are - Thanks for the suggestion
Gary
So this post I read mentioned that if the (driver's) door switch is faulty, some relay stays active providing power to the window lifts. Worse yet for diagnosing, if the battery is disconnected, as it would be to measure the current, the relay opens.
Sure enough my switch was faulty, staying in the door closed sense (electically open). I could run my windows days after stopping the car. I carefully removed the battery terminal while maintaining power and measured the current before I fixed the switch. It draws 86 mA (0.086 A)with the switch faulty (back to 6 mA after the fix). This is about 2 A-hr per day, so a week to 10 days is too much for an aging battery to handle.
So whoever you are - Thanks for the suggestion
Gary