Rust repair & prevention. 951 Wheel wells
#1
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Rust repair & prevention. 951 Wheel wells
Hey everyone:
I've got a set of sport classic II's on my 951 that used to rub the tops of the front fenders.
My fenders have been rolled and I don't expect it to rub anymore (Added a set of progressive springs with a spacer, Koni adjustable struts, and removed the wheel spacers). However, the rubbing has caused the paint to wear away on the tops of the fenders and I'm getting a bit of surface rust.
I want to clean this up and seal it to prevent any spread of the rust. What's the best way to do this?
I bought some 60 grit sandpaper and Krylon rust tough enamel (white), but I'm very hesitant before I take such rough stuff to the car.
The area that needs to be sealed is never visible, so it doesn't need to match or even look good, but overspray may be difficult to prevent.
Thanks for your help,
Nick
(Area to patch is above the top of the wheel in this photo: http://schematic.org/pics/porsche/34170033.JPG Both sides)
I've got a set of sport classic II's on my 951 that used to rub the tops of the front fenders.
My fenders have been rolled and I don't expect it to rub anymore (Added a set of progressive springs with a spacer, Koni adjustable struts, and removed the wheel spacers). However, the rubbing has caused the paint to wear away on the tops of the fenders and I'm getting a bit of surface rust.
I want to clean this up and seal it to prevent any spread of the rust. What's the best way to do this?
I bought some 60 grit sandpaper and Krylon rust tough enamel (white), but I'm very hesitant before I take such rough stuff to the car.
The area that needs to be sealed is never visible, so it doesn't need to match or even look good, but overspray may be difficult to prevent.
Thanks for your help,
Nick
(Area to patch is above the top of the wheel in this photo: http://schematic.org/pics/porsche/34170033.JPG Both sides)
#2
Rennlist Member
60 grit is probably a bit harsh. If the surface rust is not too bad, I would go with 100 or maybe 120 so you don't gnaw into it tooo much. If the 60 grit is necessary then you should go back over it with some 120 anyway. Once you get it down to shiny metal, It's only a matter of masking off what you don't want to be sprayed, and then applying a few coats of the paint.
#4
Under the Radar
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Look into a product called POR-15. It's made to go on sanded bare metal.
I spilled some on a glass jar and couldn't scrape it off without using a knife. Tough stuff.
I spilled some on a glass jar and couldn't scrape it off without using a knife. Tough stuff.
#5
Three Wheelin'
Rusted bare metal that is. Just grab a wire brush and clean the lose stuff off. I did my rear wheel wells with it as well as the bottom rear... it's nutty. You literally end up with epoxy-plastic sort of substance that is hard as a rock.
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#8
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Hey Luis:
Nah, I had to run spacers on the wheels due to the centers of the wheels not having enough room to allow a flush fit, so the wheels would rub on the fender lip when the suspension was loaded.
I removed the center dust covers to provide more room and have removed the spacers.
Suspension has been upgraded also, so I don't need to worry about them rubbing again.
Thanks again everyone!
Nick
Nah, I had to run spacers on the wheels due to the centers of the wheels not having enough room to allow a flush fit, so the wheels would rub on the fender lip when the suspension was loaded.
I removed the center dust covers to provide more room and have removed the spacers.
Suspension has been upgraded also, so I don't need to worry about them rubbing again.
Thanks again everyone!
Nick